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Old 07-27-2015, 08:36 PM   #71
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If I can get something I can use the two inch cylindrical glass cartridge fuses in then they're cheap and plentiful.
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Old 08-06-2015, 02:13 AM   #72
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If I can get something I can use the two inch cylindrical glass cartridge fuses in then they're cheap and plentiful.

IMO

This is a bad idea.

Stay with modern blade fuses that are common and available everywhere.

Glass fuses are getting hard to get. No vehicle on the road today uses them anymore.

I harvest hand fulls of the bade fuses every time I go to pick and pull. I have never had to buy a single one.

Most buses from 1990 to around 2000 also use the medium size blade fuses from the factory.

Nat
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Old 08-06-2015, 07:04 AM   #73
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Unless I get stuff from china, I'm limited by what's available locally. Locally the selection is very poor. All I find is big box stores... Lowe's, home depot, harbor freight. Walmart, ace and radio shack. Columbia, south Carolina is a really stinky armpit!
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Old 08-06-2015, 10:36 AM   #74
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I harvest hand fulls of the bade fuses every time I go to pick and pull. I have never had to buy a single one.
Keep in mind fuses harvested from automotive sources are often rated for only 32 volts. I confess to having used one for a 120 volt application once, before I even realized fuses had voltage ratings, and it still hasn't blown..... but it's not recommended, anyway.

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Unless I get stuff from china, I'm limited by what's available locally. Locally the selection is very poor. All I find is big box stores... Lowe's, home depot, harbor freight. Walmart, ace and radio shack. Columbia, south Carolina is a really stinky armpit!
That's why I linked to Digi-Key earlier. They're an electronics distributor in Minnesota with a mind-boggling inventory of in-stock components. Enter an order by 8 pm Central and they'll have it on UPS/FedEx same day (at work we occasionally need something "RIGHT NOW!" so we order from them even late in the day and it's here in Utah in the morning if we pay for next-day early shipping). Even ground shipping goes out same-day, arrives fast, and they don't charge you through the nose for the shipping price either. It's way faster than ordering from China especially for something so common as fuses/breakers and holders. These are cheap enough that $10-$15 buys a few extra holders and a bunch of fuses. Throw 'em in a bag and tuck them into one of your electrical nooks and never worry about having to go to any store for spares; they're already on hand.
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Old 08-06-2015, 12:20 PM   #75
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Inside there will be just three 110v outlets in the kitchen area. One for the microwave, one for a fridge and one for whatever else. There will be USB outlets in the bedroom and the dinette. Basically to charge my phone, my tablet and possibly my mifi though since I now get 5gb on my phone, I probably don't need the mifi.
That's a light load.. There's truly no good reason to use old style screw-in fuses. You can get away with a small 20-amp breaker box. Here's the one I have installed:


You can use two breakers instead of the 2-pole 20 amp breaker I used, but I'd advise against it. Mine is set up in the same way you will find many boats. Both neutral and hot are fed through a coupled breaker. This is for protection against reversed polarity outlets.
Let's take the example where I only have one breaker connected to the hot line. If I were to then plug the bus into an outlet with reverse polarity and overload the breaker it would trip the NEUTRAL line instead of the hot line, still feeding a live line to the outlets. Bad. A 2-pole breaker will disconnect neutral and hot at the same time, no matter the polarity.
Of course, we should all be testing unknown outlets beforehand, but I may not be the only person connecting the bus.
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Old 08-06-2015, 12:50 PM   #76
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Here's my load center.
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Old 08-06-2015, 01:06 PM   #77
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I'm trying to get away from space hogging breaker boxes inside the bus.

Im also trying to get it set up to use as little power as possible. I'll probably have a hand pump for water rather than an electric too.

Heating water for the shower is going to be interesting. I'm not sure how well electric pumps handle hot water. Two thoughts had come to mind, well 3 actually. The first is an underbelly hot tank with a thermostat. I'll probably have to build and calibrate that lot myself, powered by a 12v element run straight from solar. The second is the same idea but a gravity fed 5 gallon tank strapped where an overhead interior cargo bin would go. The third is a 240v electric power shower.

Driving the bus, the overhead hot tank would just be dumped and turned off. None would hold more than 5 gallons heated to probably 40 - 45 centigrade (around 108 farenherit)

Transfer to the tank would be via a pump or via a separate hose when docked.
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Old 08-06-2015, 01:16 PM   #78
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I'm trying to get away from space hogging breaker boxes inside the bus.
I understand that, but even an old style fuse box will be the same size as the smaller breaker boxes. The breaker box in my bus is exactly the same size as the fuse box (holds 2 fuses) that powers the air compressor in the garage. You could make the installation smaller if it were just a single fuse mounted to the wall with no enclosure, but that's a terrible idea. For 120v you really should be using UL approved devices and boxes. Extra plus: it'll make your life easier. Easy to find parts; easy to connect things; safe...
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Old 08-06-2015, 03:34 PM   #79
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Originally Posted by jazty View Post
That's a light load.. There's truly no good reason to use old style screw-in fuses. You can get away with a small 20-amp breaker box. Here's the one I have installed:


You can use two breakers instead of the 2-pole 20 amp breaker I used, but I'd advise against it. Mine is set up in the same way you will find many boats. Both neutral and hot are fed through a coupled breaker. This is for protection against reversed polarity outlets.
Let's take the example where I only have one breaker connected to the hot line. If I were to then plug the bus into an outlet with reverse polarity and overload the breaker it would trip the NEUTRAL line instead of the hot line, still feeding a live line to the outlets. Bad. A 2-pole breaker will disconnect neutral and hot at the same time, no matter the polarity.
Of course, we should all be testing unknown outlets beforehand, but I may not be the only person connecting the bus.


Funny you should mention this. Just last night I was sitting a a bar with the journeyman electrician I share my shop space with discussing just such a situation. He is in the process of totally re-wiring a machine shop where some other electrician had set the panel up just as you described NOT to. Polarity got reversed and fried every machine in the shop and started a fire that almost took the building down.

Somehow...I like your plan better.
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Old 08-06-2015, 06:11 PM   #80
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It's always good to remember that the other fellows workmanship might be questionable.

As my dad says, every electrician looks at the work of the previous one and decries is as substandard.

As in my fire extinguisher thread... It pays to be cautious though I will point out one thing..

With an ac system, live and neutral both have power going through them. They're alternately positive and negative.
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