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Old 01-09-2019, 10:47 AM   #61
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Plenty of heat

We just finished our wood stove we picked up at Tractor Supply for 500$. You can see the curtains behind it and they are not even warm. The pipe coming out of stove I can touch when its roaring hot inside. The Pipe I used was by a company called Excell double walled. They told me they dont make triple wall anymore.
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Old 01-09-2019, 10:55 AM   #62
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Help me understand insulated pipe here folks.


I run cheap black stove pipe.



The whole idea of a woodstove is to produce heat and radiate all that heat.


Why send it up the insulated chimney pipe to the outdoors?


Is it a fear of fire or something?



Sure, it is to be respected but that idea baffles me to no end.


John
While that exhaust is roaring the metal box is heating up. Its the cast iron box that radiates the heat in the room.
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Old 01-09-2019, 12:58 PM   #63
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While that exhaust is roaring the metal box is heating up. Its the cast iron box that radiates the heat in the room.

I want that pipe hot inside not going out the stack. Unbelievable how it adds to the comfort level. I take advantage of all the heat I can make in this climate.

This ain't no peanut plantation up here.



Cast iron? Are you kidding me? They are full of cracks being bolted together. Sure they may burn wood but so will a bonfire. You couldn't pay me to take one to use.


What temp does cast iron idle along at in a bus?

Mine runs well about 500f which at times is just too hot for me, but living in a wind tunnel here sure is nice when temp falls way below zero.



Not in my lifetime,, mine is 1/4 plate, one weld to enclose it, lined with firebrick.


It rocks!


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Old 01-09-2019, 01:03 PM   #64
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Thanks jazty and YC for such good detail. Nobody ever used that insulated stuff growing up with wood heat, wasn't invented yet. Never considered draft to be much of a problem when pipes are so hot. Must be an insurance co thing, fleece the customers some more.
That water jacket sure looks interesting but must take a fair bit of time to heat compared to a bare stove.

If I couldn't burn wood aboard I wouldn't be busing at all.
Thanks again both of you ,


John
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Old 01-09-2019, 02:34 PM   #65
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I use a 40 year old wood burning stove to do most of the heating in my 2 story 2000 sq' home - it's the best wood burning stove I've ever used - we burn 3 - 3 1/2 cords of wood each year - it easily takes a 26" log - the stove is about 24" wide, built from 3/16th plate with a warp proof cast iron door - the draft control is threaded and is able to close the air off so well that a chimney fire can be extinguished just by closing the draft completely - in temperatures at the freezing point we can load the firebox with 3 - 5 pieces of dry fir or less if it's dry birch, once in the morning and once before bed time - as far as cleaning ashes, I clean it once per year if I remember to clean it - I forgot this fall, and there is still ample room in the firebox for plenty of wood - the ashes heat up and hold the heat quite well - the fire actually burns better and more efficiently when there is a bed of ashes - if I'm going away for the weekend, I load the firebox over a modest bed of coals, shut the draft right down and come back 72 hours later and there are enough coals in the fire box that kindling is not needed to start the fire - just throw in some regular sized firewood and open the draft - the house is cool after that long of an absence, but the plants aren't frozen and the pipes are clear of ice - the only time you can see smoke coming from the chimney is when a fire is first started or when the draft is first opened in the morning - - in all the years I've owned the stove I've never seen any evidence of fly ash - when opening the door to add wood, I open it slowly so the smoke can vent off through the chimney before I open the door fully ( takes less than 5 seconds I think ) - when I set my bus up I'm going to have a miniature stove built using the same internal baffles as the big stove, big enough to hold firebricks to prevent metal burn out, big enough to hold 16" birch, out of 1/4" plate with a warp proof cast iron door with a vent that can be shut right down - the chimney will go straight up through the roof of the bus with an extension to increase the draw - I have a buddy who is a well equipped journeyman welder that charges me $50 an hour - I doubt the stove will cost more than $200 for the labour of building it - I plan on heading north in the winter, perhaps to the NWT, but certainly northern BC and Alberta and I want an efficient, dry, toasty comfortable heat in the bus - for my purposes I'll gladly live with a shortened counter top so I can have a real stove that doesn't need poking, feeding, cleaning, and nursing every half hour - if I'm going to be parked for 4 or 5 days, I should need about 30 or 40 pieces, max, of dry birch to stay warm and toasty when temperatures are -20 C - shouldn't be too hard to accommodate that little bit of wood in a 38 - 40 foot bus
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Old 01-09-2019, 02:40 PM   #66
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I use a 40 year old wood burning stove to do most of the heating in my 2 story 2000 sq' home - it's the best wood burning stove I've ever used - we burn 3 - 3 1/2 cords of wood each year - it easily takes a 26" log - the stove is about 24" wide, built from 3/16th plate with a warp proof cast iron door - the draft control is threaded and is able to close the air off so well that a chimney fire can be extinguished just by closing the draft completely - in temperatures at the freezing point we can load the firebox with 3 - 5 pieces of dry fir or less if it's dry birch, once in the morning and once before bed time - as far as cleaning ashes, I clean it once per year if I remember to clean it - I forgot this fall, and there is still ample room in the firebox for plenty of wood - the ashes heat up and hold the heat quite well - the fire actually burns better and more efficiently when there is a bed of ashes - if I'm going away for the weekend, I load the firebox over a modest bed of coals, shut the draft right down and come back 72 hours later and there are enough coals in the fire box that kindling is not needed to start the fire - just throw in some regular sized firewood and open the draft - the house is cool after that long of an absence, but the plants aren't frozen and the pipes are clear of ice - the only time you can see smoke coming from the chimney is when a fire is first started or when the draft is first opened in the morning - - in all the years I've owned the stove I've never seen any evidence of fly ash - when opening the door to add wood, I open it slowly so the smoke can vent off through the chimney before I open the door fully ( takes less than 5 seconds I think ) - when I set my bus up I'm going to have a miniature stove built using the same internal baffles as the big stove, big enough to hold firebricks to prevent metal burn out, big enough to hold 16" birch, out of 1/4" plate with a warp proof cast iron door with a vent that can be shut right down - the chimney will go straight up through the roof of the bus with an extension to increase the draw - I have a buddy who is a well equipped journeyman welder that charges me $50 an hour - I doubt the stove will cost more than $200 for the labour of building it - I plan on heading north in the winter, perhaps to the NWT, but certainly northern BC and Alberta and I want an efficient, dry, toasty comfortable heat in the bus - for my purposes I'll gladly live with a shortened counter top so I can have a real stove that doesn't need poking, feeding, cleaning, and nursing every half hour - if I'm going to be parked for 4 or 5 days, I should need about 30 or 40 pieces, max, of dry birch to stay warm and toasty when temperatures are -20 C - shouldn't be too hard to accommodate that little bit of wood in a 38 - 40 foot bus
How do you easily fit 26"s into 24"s?


The concern I have with the wood stove I have is that i remember the wood stove in a house I lived in. It was way too efficient and fortunately it was downstairs and heated the upstairs. I'm worried that my stove will always be too hot for that small space.
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Old 01-09-2019, 02:59 PM   #67
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wood burning

You are exactly right! We have only had ours working for few days and then we hit 60 degrees here for several days. Last night it was down to 16 and we are still trying to find that honey spot that feels comfortable. The first few nights it was 20 outside and 85 in my bus with three windows open and both hatches out completely. As with most wood stoves I am just going to have to find that right amount of wood and timing to make it the way we like it. It was much better last night starting out wide open and then chunking one large piece on it shutting the vent off causing it to just smolder. We were at 76 inside and 16 outside. One thing I want to mention I was super disappointed about this stove. We drink a lot of coffee and we have a new Kurig do do so. This thing sucks the life out of my batteries faster then anything I have seen yet. I wanted to go to a perk-u-lator type coffee maker that I can brew on my wood stove top. NOT this 90% efficient duel combustion stove don't get hot enough on top to boil water. I can still make it on my cooking stove but it just ain't the same taste to me. So far I like our stove and it just seems to fit the bus life being full time. The money I spent on the pipe pieces was stupid costing more then the stove itself (250$ per 4 feet). My wife loves it and as the saying goes " Happy Wife Happy Life"
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Old 01-09-2019, 03:22 PM   #68
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How do you easily fit 26"s into 24"s?


If the door is 24"x 24". If you hold the piece diagonal and place one end in first you have about 34" on the diagonal.

You may not get a 34" piece in but 26" should fit through just fine.
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Old 01-09-2019, 03:41 PM   #69
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Hi cisco, pancho here.


Is your stove mounted so that you can drive?



I feed my stove wood only on a bed of red coals. Open flue wide, start loading , no big chunks, a few split pieces...close the door and give it 15 minutes before I close the damper again. Cleans the pipes and real heat begins.


Can't believe a stove won't boil water...what is that about? Refund time?


John
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Old 01-09-2019, 03:51 PM   #70
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If the door is 24"x 24". If you hold the piece diagonal and place one end in first you have about 34" on the diagonal.

You may not get a 34" piece in but 26" should fit through just fine.
I reread it and he did say "log" and not logs.
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Old 01-09-2019, 07:47 PM   #71
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How do you easily fit 26"s into 24"s?


The concern I have with the wood stove I have is that i remember the wood stove in a house I lived in. It was way too efficient and fortunately it was downstairs and heated the upstairs. I'm worried that my stove will always be too hot for that small space.
my stove is 24" wide - the wood is put in lengthwise - the stove is about 30" long - you can build a small fire in a large stove if you don't need a lot of heat, but you can't put a large fire into a small stove on the nights that need a lot of heat
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Old 01-09-2019, 08:08 PM   #72
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I got lucky and found one of these on Craigslist for $100, seller said he'd gotten no calls but mine. Lowes has them for $760. I'm hoping it's not overkill. As mentioned I can burn smaller fires. It's lined with bricks and the cavity is smaller than it looks.
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Old 01-10-2019, 06:57 AM   #73
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It is mounted. The stove came with these leveling tabs that you can screw in and out to level the stove. I took them out marked the floor and run bolts through the floor into the same threads in the stove feet. 3/8-16 threads common and use washers to level it.
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Old 01-10-2019, 07:01 AM   #74
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It is mounted. The stove came with these leveling tabs that you can screw in and out to level the stove. I took them out marked the floor and run bolts through the floor into the same threads in the stove feet. 3/8-16 threads common and use washers to level it.

Thanks Cisco, wasn't sure if the bus could be driven if stove was just sitting there on tiles. I think an immobile bus would be ok just sitting and not fastened.


Thanks,


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Old 01-10-2019, 10:29 AM   #75
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traveling with wood stove

The stove I am sure wont move its over 300lbs. The main reason for bolting down was for safety in case of a wreck. Flying woodstove could be a bad day
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Old 01-10-2019, 12:02 PM   #76
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You are exactly right! We have only had ours working for few days and then we hit 60 degrees here for several days. Last night it was down to 16 and we are still trying to find that honey spot that feels comfortable. The first few nights it was 20 outside and 85 in my bus with three windows open and both hatches out completely. As with most wood stoves I am just going to have to find that right amount of wood and timing to make it the way we like it. It was much better last night starting out wide open and then chunking one large piece on it shutting the vent off causing it to just smolder. We were at 76 inside and 16 outside. One thing I want to mention I was super disappointed about this stove. We drink a lot of coffee and we have a new Kurig do do so. This thing sucks the life out of my batteries faster then anything I have seen yet. I wanted to go to a perk-u-lator type coffee maker that I can brew on my wood stove top. NOT this 90% efficient duel combustion stove don't get hot enough on top to boil water. I can still make it on my cooking stove but it just ain't the same taste to me. So far I like our stove and it just seems to fit the bus life being full time. The money I spent on the pipe pieces was stupid costing more then the stove itself (250$ per 4 feet). My wife loves it and as the saying goes " Happy Wife Happy Life"
Get a Press, Paderno makes a 12 cup double wall stainless one. Then you can either use a $10 coffee grinder (aka a Budbuster up here where cannabis is legal) or use a hand grinder. Makes you way better coffee than a perk or Keurig...

my two bits
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Old 01-10-2019, 12:36 PM   #77
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Thanks jazty and YC for such good detail. Nobody ever used that insulated stuff growing up with wood heat, wasn't invented yet. Never considered draft to be much of a problem when pipes are so hot. Must be an insurance co thing, fleece the customers some more.
That water jacket sure looks interesting but must take a fair bit of time to heat compared to a bare stove.

If I couldn't burn wood aboard I wouldn't be busing at all.
Thanks again both of you ,


John
It's not too bad, I mean a ton of variables, firebox size, tank size, etc etc. But typically if you top it off before the morning hunt, by the time you're back for lunch she is go to go. Which is typically a dampened down fire.

It's nice to help reduce fuel burn, and it's how we functioned before the instant hot water heaters....beats using an immersion heater for sure.
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Old 01-10-2019, 12:54 PM   #78
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YC, I hope you haven't started a run now on budbusters. They really aren't made for coffee folks.

Ain't legalization great but have 42 outlets on a reserve 10 minutes away.

I support the native folk, not gov't shisters.
So many flavours available at the reserve I may never leave my heaven here on Earth.
Baby, it's cold outside today....


John
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Old 01-10-2019, 01:48 PM   #79
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Coffee maker

That's funny my wife brought one of these presses home the other day. I never seen one before and was little skeptical about it. I will look into this solution. Thanks for the info
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Old 01-10-2019, 02:05 PM   #80
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I will definitely be carrying one with me.

They make the best coffee that I have found and you can heat the water on your propane or wood stove. Great for boondocking.

On that topic... Earlier someone mentioned the Keurig coffee maker..... I stayed with family that has one of those for 5 days. I really don't get the attraction. Too much work for one cup of coffee and it wasn't great coffee.

Just my $0.02
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