Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 08-25-2016, 08:04 PM   #1
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Gainesville. Georgia
Posts: 526
Year: 1992
Coachwork: bluebird
Rated Cap: 72
To ground or not to ground

Am I better off telling everyone here that I am planning on grounding my breaker panel to the skin of the bus? Then wait for all the reasons not to?

Or would I get better results saying I have no plans to ground? Then wait for reasons to?

I have no clue on this. Can someone please steer me in the right direction. I'm forever
The-Breeze is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-25-2016, 08:25 PM   #2
Bus Crazy
 
milkmania's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Oklahoma aka "God's blind spot"
Posts: 2,177
Year: 1989
Coachwork: 1853FC International/Navistar
Chassis: 35' Retired Air Force Ambulance
Engine: DT466, MT643
Rated Cap: 6 souls and a driver
When I mentioned using aluminum diamond plate for a shower pan to our electrical instructor at the technology center... I asked about grounding the pan, and he said in my situation (stick & air nailed storage building), a ground lug should be tig welded to the pan and bonded to earth ground.

When I read that article last night about "hot skin" on a bus, it really made me wonder about generator electricity! I know if my bus electrical is proper, it'll pick up the earth ground from the shore electrical pole at an RV campground, but what about generated electricity and rubber bus tires?

Sure would hate to pound in a ground spike at every campsite and clamp bus to ground.... But, I would if I felt I needed to!

What about the anti-static strip I've seen on some vehicles?
https://www.google.com/search?q=anti...9x-WJSJ4hGM%3A


I guess I could toss out my Danforth boat anchor on steel chain and get a good hold!

I'm also interested in this topic!

Here's some previous discussion
http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f10/ho...ms-ac-448.html
__________________
I once complained I had no shoes....
Until I met a man with no feet
milkmania is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-25-2016, 08:29 PM   #3
Bus Crazy
 
ol trunt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: So Cal
Posts: 1,879
Year: 1935
Coachwork: Superior
Chassis: Chevy
Engine: 317 ci/tid / Isuzu
Begin your reading here.

No Shock Zone – RV Travel.

Once you have read this you will be better able to ask meaningful questions and get help with your electrical installation. Hope this helps. Jack
ol trunt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-25-2016, 08:31 PM   #4
Bus Crazy
 
milkmania's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Oklahoma aka "God's blind spot"
Posts: 2,177
Year: 1989
Coachwork: 1853FC International/Navistar
Chassis: 35' Retired Air Force Ambulance
Engine: DT466, MT643
Rated Cap: 6 souls and a driver
__________________
I once complained I had no shoes....
Until I met a man with no feet
milkmania is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-25-2016, 09:31 PM   #5
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Miami
Posts: 163
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: MVP
Engine: CAT 3116
Rated Cap: 84
This post has a very good write up of why and how you should ground your chassis:
http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f10/ho...tml#post111489
Piersg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-25-2016, 09:41 PM   #6
Bus Crazy
 
roach711's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Farmington Hills, Mi (Detroit area)
Posts: 1,493
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Eldorado Aerotech 24'
Chassis: Ford E-450 Cutaway Bus
Engine: 7.3L Powerstroke
Rated Cap: 19
Definitely ground the AC panel to the skin. If you don't and one of your 120v hot wires gets loose and touches your bus body the whole body will be energized and the breakers in your power panel won't trip since they have no idea there's a problem in the wiring. Ground the body and now your breakers will trip when there's a short like they're supposed to.

Without that ground connection your steel body could be energized and no one would know about it until someone who's outside and grounded touches the steel. Maybe they feel a little tingle and maybe they get a serious poke. It all depends on how well they are grounded themselves.
__________________
The Roach Motel
roach711 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-25-2016, 10:04 PM   #7
Bus Crazy
 
milkmania's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Oklahoma aka "God's blind spot"
Posts: 2,177
Year: 1989
Coachwork: 1853FC International/Navistar
Chassis: 35' Retired Air Force Ambulance
Engine: DT466, MT643
Rated Cap: 6 souls and a driver
Grommets for wires passing through sheet metal holes would be wise investment too!

Or plastic conduit connectors & nuts
__________________
I once complained I had no shoes....
Until I met a man with no feet
milkmania is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-25-2016, 10:11 PM   #8
Bus Crazy
 
milkmania's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Oklahoma aka "God's blind spot"
Posts: 2,177
Year: 1989
Coachwork: 1853FC International/Navistar
Chassis: 35' Retired Air Force Ambulance
Engine: DT466, MT643
Rated Cap: 6 souls and a driver
Quote:
Originally Posted by Piersg View Post
This post has a very good write up of why and how you should ground your chassis:
http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f10/ho...tml#post111489
Very good post!
Some of this life/death stuff should be stickied!
__________________
I once complained I had no shoes....
Until I met a man with no feet
milkmania is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-26-2016, 09:41 AM   #9
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Pacific North Wet
Posts: 761
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American RE (A3RE)
Engine: Cummins ISC (8.3)
Rated Cap: 72
You need to make certain that the bonding screw (or similar) has been removed from your panel. You do NOT want neutral and ground bonded at the panel.

Make sure that neutral and ground ARE bonded in your generator. Every one that I have ever looked at has been but I am sure that there are exceptions. You don't want to find out the hard way......

Yes, ground the panel to the bus chassis.

Please....... Have an electrician look it over your electrical install when you are done.
PNW_Steve is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-26-2016, 11:33 AM   #10
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: MD near DC
Posts: 528
This is all still theoretical to me because I don't have a bus yet. But, I would guess that there is a main breaker at the top of whatever you can provision as an RV 120VAC panel, just like there is in a residential panel. Would it be a good idea to make that breaker a GFCI? Or is there code that requires the park operator to install one per-site?
dan-fox is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:57 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.