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Old 01-25-2016, 03:20 PM   #151
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Join Date: May 2015
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 224
Year: 1998
Chassis: VanHool T945
Engine: Cummins M11
Rated Cap: 47,000
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Originally Posted by Deshet View Post
Is this a vanhool T840?
Do you have a Cummins M11

What are you doing for heat? Does your chiller/heat exchanger work both ways?

Do you mind sharing the amount your conversion will cost?

How are you getting larger items into the Bus

Thanks
Mine is a T945 and yes it has a Cummins M11

The aqua system will also handle the heat. There is an instant water heater that is on the circulation pump for the 30gal tank. It's temp is monitored and has its own contactor to turn on/off.

Where I am in the build, I have not totaled everything yet. (Kinda don't want to) lol I do have every single receipt from purchases and I'll want to know in the end when it's complete.

Large items fit through the windows. I've had a full size couch come in through there. The Windows will swing out from a top hinge almost completely flush with the top level of window.. Makes acces easy..
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Old 01-27-2016, 03:11 AM   #152
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: St Louis Metro
Posts: 105
Year: 1978
Coachwork: Wayne
Chassis: Lifeguard
Engine: 366 Chevy
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Seems as there was a lot of question as to induction cooktop near metal... There is no issue - works perfect.

O.K. googled it. Hamilton Beach model 34102.
Dimensions (inches): 2.68 H x 11.73 W x 13.88 D


I started to get excited cause this should fit my 12" wide drawer perfectly. Then I started reading reviews... only 1300W. Surprisingly, most 13, 15, & 1800W induction cooktops all state 460* as highest temp. Yet, NuWave claims 575*.



I'm almost decided, think I'll get a good 1800W that fits and call it a day.
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Old 01-27-2016, 03:53 AM   #153
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Join Date: May 2015
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 224
Year: 1998
Chassis: VanHool T945
Engine: Cummins M11
Rated Cap: 47,000
Yeah - a reason I went with less power consumption unit is efficiency on house battery/inverter. I've used it, and boiling water in a flash and having two units that cost very minimal was an advantage to me. I also wanted the completely flush glass. This in my opinion helps so food doesn't spill and get stuck in cracks and different levels of the control faces which I felt could happen on some of the other units I looked at.
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Old 01-31-2016, 08:43 PM   #154
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Putting Slide in a coach - reference

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Originally Posted by prorott01 View Post
I just bought a '97 T945. Does anyone on here know if you can put a slide in these things? TIA
If you want to learn all about coach construction, conversion and adding slides read "The Bus Converter's Bible" by Dave Galey, ISBN 1890461202. Just do a search on a site like www.gettextbooks.com and you should be able to find a used copy for a good price. Excellent info. He is a retired aerospace engineer who has converted many buses and has good info on figuring out the stresses different modifications will have on the bus chassis and how to build it safely and correctly.
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Old 01-31-2016, 10:06 PM   #155
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 31
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Goshen Sentry
Chassis: Spartan
Engine: cummins 250
Rated Cap: 36
I always wonder how much stronger everything has to be to handle the road, bumps, and constant vibrations. I think the big style Coach buses are so smooth that it probably isn't a issue, but a school bus has to get noisy over time.

It seems like most people are doing house type construction. Do precautions have to be taken to keep wall tiles from falling off the wall in a coach conversion or is kitchen/bath mortar good enough?

I had a class A safari Isuzu diesel motor home a few years back and the construction was nearly as good as what I am seeing from this conversion.
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Old 02-01-2016, 12:04 AM   #156
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Join Date: May 2015
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 224
Year: 1998
Chassis: VanHool T945
Engine: Cummins M11
Rated Cap: 47,000
From what I heard you can't use a standard mortar. It's too brittle for the flex and vibration. I used a construction adhesive To butter each tile - as it stays somewhat flexible even when cured, and a siliconized sanded grout that also stays flexible. There are a few other grout products out there for the RV tile industy. Some guy has a YouTube video talking about it.
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Old 02-01-2016, 07:44 AM   #157
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Smile

Quote:
Originally Posted by Deshet View Post
I always wonder how much stronger everything has to be to handle the road, bumps, and constant vibrations. I think the big style Coach buses are so smooth that it probably isn't a issue, but a school bus has to get noisy over time.
From what I read in the "Bus Converter Bible" and other forums the coaches are a unibody type construction, which is why keeping structural integrity is so critical. The smooth ride is more a result of the suspension. An improperly engineered modification to the body could cause bowing, flexing, cracks, etc no matter how smooth it rides because they do flex even though you don't feel it. We have industrial equipment at work that weighs tons (mills) and even though they look like they won't flex because they are built so solid and in a sitting (static) state, you can see movement on the calibrated scale we use to level them when you just turn the leveling screws a hair. A coach is much more flexible than a machine like this and subject to dynamic stresses and thus will flex much more. Ok, enough of the "Bill Nye the Science Guy" talk!
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Old 02-01-2016, 02:30 PM   #158
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Any info is much appreciated!!! Bill Nye or otherwise
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Old 02-03-2016, 01:46 PM   #159
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Sonoma County, CA
Posts: 25
You Are Crazy! and I mean that in the best way! so smart and well thought out! your bus build is amazing and totally inspiring! I love the modern look you are going with! For sure got my wheels turning about getting a coach instead of a school bus...
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Old 02-03-2016, 04:56 PM   #160
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Join Date: May 2015
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 224
Year: 1998
Chassis: VanHool T945
Engine: Cummins M11
Rated Cap: 47,000
Thanks Pshots -
I'm hoping to finish the conversion within this year - so stay tuned for more pics.
I just finished the electromagnetic locks for the kitchen pantry. They work awesome!! I'll post a video soon of them in operation.
Yeah, I am crazy- I could have done a simple latch to keep them closed during driving but instead I have a 600lb magnet hold them shut hidden behind the pantry slider and a flush 2mm push to contact switch which breaks the power to the magnet and a spring pushes the drawer / cabinet open... That way I'll have no visible hardware or handles on all the kitchen drawers / pantry to maintain the flush modern look.
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