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Old 10-01-2015, 09:28 AM   #51
Skoolie
 
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Join Date: May 2015
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 224
Year: 1998
Chassis: VanHool T945
Engine: Cummins M11
Rated Cap: 47,000
I hear ya.. It's all preference and intended use.
I personally drool over the newer charter coaches way more than even a 2mil luxury RV or presvost conversion.

For example:




Drool - sigh.... I want to custom convert one of those!!! Someday...
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Old 10-01-2015, 12:15 PM   #52
Skoolie
 
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Join Date: May 2013
Location: Monrovia California
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Year: 1984
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Engine: 3208 turbo Cat
Rated Cap: 78
Offgr1d, you just threw a monkey wrench on my project with all this amazing Ideas, have to say I need to re-focused on my project and love my Skoolie, but I'll keep an eye on a van-hool. keep up the pics.

J
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Old 10-01-2015, 01:55 PM   #53
Bus Crazy
 
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very cool build thread!!! that's an awesome platform for sure.

the vanhools buses are huge!!!

ima looking forward to see how it all finishes
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Old 10-01-2015, 02:39 PM   #54
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Stony Plain Alberta Canada
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Year: 1992
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: 190hp 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
That sink and kitchen faucet is exactly what I'm going for. I already have the sink, I'm keeping my eye out for a used commercial faucet.

I'm so glad to see someone with vision. The ability to outsource and have things custom made is awesome. Once you open your mind, and break free from using what is made for other purposes, things become far better.

Like using custom hat channels VS square tube for roof raises.

I also love that you are doing a one piece stainless steel counter / sink. Far too many people just slap some crappy wood counter top into their bus. I hate giving mold a place to grow. Wood should not be used in wet locations.

Thanks for sharing, and keep the pics coming.

Nat
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Old 10-01-2015, 02:59 PM   #55
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Salt Lake City Utah
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Year: 2000
Chassis: Blue Bird
Engine: ISC 8.3
Cool idea with the sink. I've been thinking about something along the lines of this sink with integrated drying rack I saw at Ikea. Trying to decide whether to have one custom made instead (or use the excuse to get into TIG myself) to also integrate a back splash, and potentially have the entire counter surface in stainless.. but what about the portable induction cooktop? I'm quite new to those, and it isn't clear to me whether there'd be any problem placing the induction cooktop on a stainless countertop, so long as the countertop is non-magnetic.
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Old 10-01-2015, 03:01 PM   #56
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Stony Plain Alberta Canada
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Year: 1992
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: 190hp 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
My sink has the drying rack and back splash as one piece. It came from a oilfield geologist skid shack.

The cooktops sit on rubber legs. I can't see it being a issue.

Nat
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Old 10-01-2015, 03:12 PM   #57
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
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I hadn't even considered having the cooktop on a metal surface as a potential problem until I read it in the manual. It warned not to place the induction unit on top of a conventional range; I inferred this would be because the surface is likely made of mild steel... and is magnetic. Surely most of the power would go into the cookware above because it's so much closer to the coil inside the cooktop. But there would have to be some possibility of inducing heat in an object below, too. My gut says if non-magnetic stainless cookware doesn't work for cooking on the thing, then non-magnetic stainless is fine for a countertop beneath it as well. I just don't know the physics of it well enough to be sure. Not sure why rubber feet would be relevant..
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Old 10-01-2015, 03:45 PM   #58
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 28
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Bluebird Mini-Bird 24'
Chassis: Chevy P30
Engine: Chevy 6.2L Diesel
The rubber feet would be relevant because it would electrically isolate the cooktop from whatever */might/* become magnetically inducted underneath it. The kinds of things I could see happening would be heat underneath the cooktop, melting the rubber feet, cooking the internal wiring, or even building up electrical potential difference (read=voltage) causing the cooktop and whatever is underneath to act as a giant capacitor, creating a VERY NASTY, very possible lethal, spark potential.

I could even see something like this happening if you perhaps had the cooktop sitting over some magnetic plumbing, in the rarest/worst of cases.
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Old 10-01-2015, 04:40 PM   #59
Skoolie
 
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Join Date: May 2015
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 224
Year: 1998
Chassis: VanHool T945
Engine: Cummins M11
Rated Cap: 47,000
The induction stove goes in a drawer under the stainless countertop. When extended it should be far enough from metal so it will only effect the intended cookware.
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Old 10-01-2015, 05:33 PM   #60
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Stony Plain Alberta Canada
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Year: 1992
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: 190hp 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
Interesting points everyone.

Glad you guys brought this up before I get to that part of my build.

I will have to do a bit of reading on Google.

Nat
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