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Old 10-01-2017, 01:38 PM   #81
Skoolie
 
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I'd want to reinforce that rusted out area if it were me.

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Old 10-04-2017, 06:35 PM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by syntel View Post
I thought that looked like our old Metro buses!
Yup. Houston didn't take that great of care with them if my unit is any indication. However, everything below the floor-line is in great shape. It seems all of the rust is around the windows.
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Old 10-04-2017, 06:40 PM   #83
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Originally Posted by Greatestrr View Post
I'd want to reinforce that rusted out area if it were me.
Well, its not rusted out, but it is rusted more than I'd like....
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Old 10-04-2017, 06:43 PM   #84
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I've gotten the driver's side wall opened just about completely. Boy what a mess....


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Old 10-04-2017, 06:58 PM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkyDee View Post
I've gotten the driver's side wall opened just about completely. Boy what a mess....
I've seen worse posted up here....not too bad from pics.

That is such a wonderful space- Will make a heck of a RV to glamping in.
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Old 10-04-2017, 07:57 PM   #86
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looks to me like you only have a couple problem window supports that got rusty.. seems like you pull the window and frame.. reseal it.. re install and spray the bus wit hthe hose
-Christopher
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Old 10-04-2017, 08:31 PM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
looks to me like you only have a couple problem window supports that got rusty.. seems like you pull the window and frame.. reseal it.. re install and spray the bus wit hthe hose
-Christopher
Yeah, THIS^^

Looks alright to me. Every bus has SOMETHING to fix.

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Old 10-04-2017, 08:45 PM   #88
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alot of this has little to do with how a bus is purposefully maintained.. a driver sees water on the floor after running a city route in a heavy rainstorm.. is it a window? passengers umbrellas? soaked shoes? no way really to know.. so they put the bus away for the next shift or in the garage for the night..

its easy to spot mechanical neglect but not structural so much unless its blatant...

driver windows in school busses are notoriously left open.. even a crack.. why? if its the city of columbus it was because they were told to on the old busses.. drivers would slam the entry doors shut so hard the handle would go to the locked position.. vandalocks on the emergency doors were secured and the sign put in the back window that said the bus was empty.. an unlocked driver window means the poor morning sap who has to make sure al lthe busses start up.. can just get a broom handle through the driver window and pop the door..

other drivers just plain forget to close the window.. many of us who have driven our busses up in a northern climate know that there's literally.. HOT heat or NO heat.. so when it gets too warm you just open the window even if its 25 degrees out.. many bus drivers do it.. then forget.. it rains or snows all over the switch panel.. OOPS.. can we say electrical gremlins??

if your bus didnt have Air-conditioning you always had to have the driver window open when in the rain to have a prayer at not suffocating while the defrosters were on high clearing the windshield... esp if its still a school bus with kids on it.. more water on the switches.. (whos idea was it anyway to locate the switches right under the driver window?)

alas for the next owner this can spell (man thisdistrict sucked at maintaining these busses.. theres water leaks and rust all over the driver area...)

-Christopher
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Old 10-04-2017, 09:28 PM   #89
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Thank you for all of your kind words!



I'm hoping that the bus ends up being great. We're thinking of full-timing in it some time in the future (maybe when I retire, maybe sooner - only God knows). I'm concerned that I won't properly remediate the rust due to my inexperience and end up with problems in the future.

The other side of the bus has a couple of spots that look much worse - one spot I can see has almost completely disintegrated. I'll post pics once I get the wall off. I'm certain to need advice on how to attack the rust and remediate the joints.
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Old 10-14-2017, 02:42 PM   #90
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Second set of bins hanging by a few screws:


And CRASH!


Gives me a chance to look at the rust above the window....


Wow, those are BIG coolant lines....
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Old 10-14-2017, 02:44 PM   #91
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takes a lot of heat to keep a bus that the door is constantly opening and closing warm.. (if thats what those are for.. they dont look like A/C refrigerant lines)...

-Christopher
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Old 10-14-2017, 02:58 PM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
takes a lot of heat to keep a bus that the door is constantly opening and closing warm.. (if thats what those are for.. they dont look like A/C refrigerant lines)...

-Christopher
Believe it or not, those lines come from an engine-driven dual cylinder A/C compressor.... At first I thought it was a large alternator until I got a look at those hoses....
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Old 10-14-2017, 05:35 PM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkyDee View Post
Believe it or not, those lines come from an engine-driven dual cylinder A/C compressor.... At first I thought it was a large alternator until I got a look at those hoses....
I've never seen A/C lines that looked like that.

Please, for the love of all that is digital, resize them pictures. I'm starting to think you work for Verizon and are trying to use my monthly data allocation in a single post.
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Old 10-14-2017, 06:04 PM   #94
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I've never seen A/C lines that looked like that.

Please, for the love of all that is digital, resize them pictures. I'm starting to think you work for Verizon and are trying to use my monthly data allocation in a single post.
Oh, sorry....

I'm dumping the raw photo directly and my phone has an 8MPix. I'll make them smaller in the future....

For the A/C, its a 10-ton unit. It can cool the bus from 100F to 80F in about 3-4 minutes. Its absolutely incredible. Its 2.5x the cooling capacity than my house, and my house is 10x the floorspace as the bus.
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Old 10-14-2017, 06:24 PM   #95
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Originally Posted by MarkyDee View Post
Oh, sorry....

I'm dumping the raw photo directly and my phone has an 8MPix. I'll make them smaller in the future....

For the A/C, its a 10-ton unit. It can cool the bus from 100F to 80F in about 3-4 minutes. Its absolutely incredible. Its 2.5x the cooling capacity than my house, and my house is 10x the floorspace as the bus.

and it was designed to keep the bus cool with the doors opening and closing.. I hope you keep it for the road..

and sorry .. it was me.. i was looking at those pics on my phone.. so it looked like Heater lines as the fitting looked like a clamp instead of a compression or ORB from the stainless steel to the other hose.. once I got home and looked on my computer I could see it better.
-Christopher
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Old 10-14-2017, 06:36 PM   #96
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10 tons of air conditioning is not uncommon in a bus.. full size school busses will often have that.. I just fixed a Thermoking unit for someone on a school bus last week...

thernoking in town wanted to charge them $1000 to fix it.. $49 in Barrier hose, Burgaclip fittings , 6 lbs of 134A later and it cools that bus down to a freezer.. its 120,000 BTU system with a TM-21 compressor driven by its own SERP style flat belt.. the condensor and evaporator are together on the roof.. (the vents are on the inside center of the ceiling) no basement space lost and no interior "cabinet" space lost during conversion.. it doenst stick out of the ceiling much more than a camper unit.. its just about 4 feet long..
m seeing that style A/C unit more and more.. thernoking is good kit but pricey..
ask anyone who hauls reefer about TK service costs..
-Christopher
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Old 10-14-2017, 06:36 PM   #97
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and it was designed to keep the bus cool with the doors opening and closing.. I hope you keep it for the road..
My wife and I are still debating (well, my wife is leaving it to me and I'm debating). Its a roof-mounted unit and it is HUGE. If I keep it, where do I put cooling units for when we are parked? If I remove it, I think I could replace it with 2 - 1.5 ton minisplits, replace the compressor with another alternator, and be able to run them whether running down the road or parked and enjoying the weather.

I'm so torn, but in the short-term it stays.
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Old 10-14-2017, 06:40 PM   #98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
10 tons of air conditioning is not uncommon in a bus.. full size school busses will often have that.. I just fixed a Thermoking unit for someone on a school bus last week...

thernoking in town wanted to charge them $1000 to fix it.. $49 in Barrier hose, Burgaclip fittings , 6 lbs of 134A later and it cools that bus down to a freezer.. its 120,000 BTU system with a TM-21 compressor driven by its own SERP style flat belt.. the condensor and evaporator are together on the roof.. (the vents are on the inside center of the ceiling) no basement space lost and no interior "cabinet" space lost during conversion.. it doenst stick out of the ceiling much more than a camper unit.. its just about 4 feet long..
m seeing that style A/C unit more and more.. thernoking is good kit but pricey..
ask anyone who hauls reefer about TK service costs..
-Christopher
Mine is a roof-mounted thermoking as well. I don't know much about it right now, but I'll be learning soon. I agree its good kit. It doesn't hang down into the cabin at all. The air outlets were blowing into the luggage bins and the bins acted as the ducts and vents.
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Old 10-14-2017, 06:41 PM   #99
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Oh, and my Thermoking uses R-22, not R-134.
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Old 10-14-2017, 06:43 PM   #100
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i got news for you... you wont cool a bus on the road with 2 minisplits.. for one, 1.5 tonners you need 240 volts for.. so your electrical system just got way more complex... and even as efficient as they are . they are HIGHLY INEFFICIENT when running at full-bore.. 2 1 tom 120 volters will beautifully cool a parked bus and be efficient at it.. because the bus has been cooled down.. or is parked in a nice shady area... mini's running at 80% capacity or less are VERY efficient.. 80%-120% (yes they will run over spec) they are not efficient.. Ive got 3 of them in modified form in my house and my GEM reads their energ usage.. if I do quick coold downs (which I do as I am a fresh air guy till i want to sleep).. then they pull LOTS of juice till they start backing down on compressor and outdoor fan speeds..

for your parked A/C i wouldnt use anything but minisplits if i were building it..
-Christopher
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