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Old 01-07-2018, 09:49 AM   #441
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Originally Posted by Iceni John View Post
Why not cover the entire ceiling with flat-panel TVs, then either show a video of blue sky with moving clouds . . .
Hmmm... that is a very interesting idea John!!
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Old 01-07-2018, 09:58 AM   #442
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Originally Posted by joeblack5 View Post
Not sue about the height of your current ceiling but I would think that those optical illusions are only possible if their is a reasonable distance between your eyes and the ceiling. We ones (13 yrs ago) were traveling thru Vegas and they had a mall or so with a ceiling like that and it would take quite a bit of studying before you could see the fakeness of it.
Yeah, I suspect you were in the shops at Ceaser's Palace. That is a pretty neat affect. I suspect you and the others are correct though - probably not enough space to make it work in a bus.

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Originally Posted by joeblack5 View Post
We have a small skylight inside our escape hatch that does real nice with light and allows the outside in a little.
I'm with you - I use my hatches a lot in the summer. I installed screens to keep the bugs out and love the air and light.

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tried to get to one of your sites to see more inside pics. but my browers waffles about a security certificate, any advise?
Hmm... not sure. I don't have many good shots of the interior - mostly cause it is far from done. This page Cork Plank Laminate Flooring Installation - Quercus Suber - JdFinley.com flooring/ may have the best/most recent photos.
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Old 01-07-2018, 10:01 AM   #443
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Originally Posted by plfking View Post
I really like the blue sky look, but would agree with Joe.....without some distance from it, i think it will just look like a blue/white ceiling, unless you're laying on the floor.

If you have a 'slight bow' in your roof, why not wallpaper some luan and let it 'bow' to the ceiling itself?
Yep - I think you are right Don - just a simple panel and then wallpaper. Very limited height is part of my issue. Works for me as I am a short but tall friends usually bump their heads.
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Old 01-10-2018, 10:52 AM   #444
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Given this thread (http://www.skoolie.net/forums/newrep...reply&p=244209), I just did some testing of my NuWave cooktop.

I'm a curious guy - probably get it from my cats...

I have a dual 'burner' NuWave induction cooktop but I had never actually measured the power consumption. Today, I did.

The dual burner NuWave cooktop does not allow a combined setting higher than 10. Meaning; both burners can be on 5 (5+5=10) but if you raise one to 6, the other drops to 4. The unit lists 1800 watts as it's maximum.

One burner on a setting of "5" consumed 880 watts. The following photo is at a setting of "10" but the Kill-A-Watt reading is at a setting of "5" - sorry about the confusing pics.





One burner on a setting of "10" consumed very close to 1500 watts. Both burners on a setting of "5" consumed very close to 1500 watts.





The unit cycles the power a lot when on a low power or low temperature setting so getting a point in time measurement is pretty tough. I use this setting when simmering/stewing something (like 150-180 degrees). The Kill-A-Watt meter cycles between about 50 watts and 750 watts when on power setting "1", power setting "2" is similar at 50 watts and 780 watts.

The induction technology is very fast at transferring heat. Boiling water does not take very long. When I am cooking something, the unit is not on for a super long time - certainly not constantly pulling lots of juice.

One of these days, I'll try to remember to hookup the Kill-A-Volt before fixing something like spaghetti. It will record total power used over a period of time so this will give a semi-interesting number about how many total watts it took to cook that meal.
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Old 01-10-2018, 11:56 AM   #445
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I like fire. Fires are usually independent of each other until you run out of oxygen or fuel. By that point you longer care how fast your water is going to boil.
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Old 01-10-2018, 12:18 PM   #446
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Thanks, that is handy JD to know.
Our 4 burner induction in our house does a similar thing. Kind of helpfull in a mobile appliaction that it is harder to overload the inverter by mistake.
We got two separate induction single burners as to have more redundancy. Also two 2.5KW inverters. They are pure sine but inexpensive. The power components are easy to exchange so I have a bag of spare mosfets if it comes to that
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Old 01-10-2018, 02:55 PM   #447
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brewerbob View Post
I like fire. Fires are usually independent of each other until you run out of oxygen or fuel. By that point you longer care how fast your water is going to boil.
I support that observation:

M
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Old 01-10-2018, 06:30 PM   #448
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Originally Posted by JDOnTheGo View Post
Hmmm... that is a very interesting idea John!!
That's kind of why I suggested cheaper projectors instead of expensive TV's?
I already know I ain't a geek so ain't accepted here but I am a pain and don't mind giving an opinion. Right or wrong.
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Old 01-11-2018, 06:37 AM   #449
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Originally Posted by Jolly Roger bus 223 View Post
That's kind of why I suggested cheaper projectors instead of expensive TV's?
Ha! Yeah - a projector would be interesting too!

Fun to think about but I'll be going with something less complex and power hungry. I'll have to leave this idea to one of the custom builders that work for the stars.
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Old 02-25-2018, 07:39 AM   #450
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Its been a while since my last update. Not that I haven't been doing anything, just that those 'things' haven't been related to Missy.

However; I did finally get around to thinking about ceiling lights. I don't yet have ceiling panels up but I'm getting close (well, closer). I mentioned the following on another thread but figured I should add it here as well.

My requirements for ceiling lights were that they be very thin (I have very limited height to work with), operate from 24 volt DC current (did not want to be required to run my lights thru a 24 VDC to 12 VDC step down converter, and dimmable. I was hoping to find something round and in a small-ish diameter - like 2" - 3".

The advertisers of LED light panels on Amazon and eBay seem to be marketing to residential folks who need to run them from 120 VAC. The good news is that all of these fixtures run on DC current and include an "LED Driver" that converts the AC current to DC current. The trick is finding lights that operate from the desired DC current (24 volts for me, 12 volts for some). Since this information is not typically included in the marketing material, it can be a challenge. In my case, the LED Driver will not be used.

I purchased ten of these round LED light panels in the 9 watt variant. The operate on 24-42 VDC and measure about 5.75 round and three-quarters of an inch thick (or tall). I wish they were a smaller diameter but it is what it is.

These touch panel LED dimmer switches operate on 12-24 VDC so I hoped they would work with my lights.

After getting both items in hand, I connected them on my test bench and WHALLLLA!! LIGHT!

Better still - the dimmer works as expected.

I think the arrangement is going to work just fine. However; I do not have a permanent installation yet and certainly no more than a few minutes of operational time.
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