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Old 03-29-2004, 01:32 PM   #21
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i got my jacuzzi fixed. It turned out to be a lot less work than i had planned. Everything that was leaking was accessable through the service panel. In the end, i didn't have to remove the entire hot tub from the bus, which was definately a bonus !
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Old 03-29-2004, 04:11 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoulTrader
Any ideas for a name??

-Kevin
Figuring out a name for my bus was a really hard decision, especially since Ben rushed me so much to name it. I posted a topic up on our local campus bulliten board for name suggestions, some were good and some were not. So I have posted your bus up there and maybe you will get a response that you like.
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Old 03-29-2004, 04:49 PM   #23
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I disagree with your perspective on the Wal-mart parking lot. Sam Walton was a big fan of RV's, and he made it a company wide policy to invite RV's to stay a nite in their lot. It's good business sense. Wal-mart knows that if you stay in the unused portion of the huge parking, it's very likely that you'll come inside and spend some money. Most Wal-marts welcome RV's with open arms.

They do not however appreciate people who try to stay for extended periods of time. One nite is fine. Two is pushing it, and three or more is completely unacceptable. Some Wal-marts have been forced to ban RV's from parking in their lots because of the few who stay too long. It only takes a couple of bad apples to ruin it for all of us.

Feel free to stay in the Wal-mart parking lot for a nite. To show your thanks, go in and buy something. Leave no trace when you head back out on the road.
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Old 03-29-2004, 04:53 PM   #24
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The following taken from Wal-mart.com


"RV Parking


Wal-Mart permits recreational-vehicle (RV) parking on our store lots, as we are able. The ability to accommodate RVs is determined on a store-by-store basis, contingent upon available space, local regulations and ordinances."

RV Parking
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Old 08-30-2004, 10:15 PM   #25
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Tiling

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I'm just going to have to be careful, since I'm not entirely sure what's UNDER the wood.
I think what is generally at the bottom of everything is sheet metal. If the wood is rotten, there's a likelihood that the sheet metal will be, as well.

Quote:
Anyway, here's my dilema... In the area where I'm going to put the kitchen/bath, I want to use 6"x6" slate tile, I've put some thought into this and have come up with the only way I think it can work. If I use white silicone as the adhesive, as well as the between tile "grout", it should provide enough flex for the tiles to not break, and not pop off the floor, right? Is this feasable? I really like the way the slate tile looks and its resistance to wear.
I have been thinking along the same lines. I have just recently completed my second home tiling job. I have *no* idea how tile will behave in the kind of environment presented by a school bus frame. I do know that if you have deflections of greater than L/360, you will have problems. On a 6" tile that is not stiffly bonded to another tile, the deflection over the 6" length could be as much as 0.00138 inches across the 6" length....theoretically. That does not allow for much deflection at all. But people have, and do, tile busses, so there must be some way to do it!!

I'd recommend a very stiff (1.125") sub-floor plus a half inch cementitious backer board on top of that...PLUS if you are going to be doing this in an environment subject to water (i.e. shower/bathroom), you need to put down some kind of impermeable water barrier below the backerboard.

A good tiling book at the library will have the basics.
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Old 08-31-2004, 02:48 AM   #26
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Careful with old tile.

I'm not sure about the dates involved, but be very careful when removing old tile. It used to be made frequently with asbestos in it, and you shouldn't create *any* dust with old tiles that have asbestos in them. Wear a respirator, not just a dust mask if you suspect the tiles are old enough to have asbestos content.

With the bronchitis, you might ought to use a respirator anyway.

3 layers of 3/4" tile = 2.25 inches. That ought to be plenty stiff to put tile over, even with a thinset adhesive instead of a flexible adhesive as you were planning.

Good Luck!
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Old 08-31-2004, 03:01 AM   #27
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Wet them down a little too, to keep them from creating dust.
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Old 09-01-2004, 01:26 AM   #28
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Asbestos exposure

I'm not positive, but I think it takes yeeeaaars for the symptoms of asbestosis to show up.

Maybe all you got was good dust.
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Old 09-01-2004, 01:54 AM   #29
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I have an older friend who used to mix asbestos with water by stiring it up to his shoulders with his arms in a metal tub. That was the old days. He has no symptoms of any problems now, but others did. It's kind of hit and miss and the problems don't come on for many years. You probably didn't have enough exposure to pose a threat so I wouldn't lose sleep over it. The symptoms you have, if at all from this project, are probably from the dust you created and breathed. More likely, it's just a bug. Probably should go to the doc cause lung problems are nothing to mess with...even viruses.
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Old 09-01-2004, 07:33 AM   #30
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I've done a couple of asbestos abatement courses at work, from what I've learned is the exposure you most likely received is probably less than what you would have received if you stood at a busy intersection after a walk througha downtown area (brake dust). The effects take years to be noticable. I wouldn't worry about it, as long as you aren't exposed to the stuff on a regular basis. BUT, don't take chances, get the tiles tested, keep them wet during removal, don't breath in the dust, ALWAYS wear a good, fit tested respirator with the proper filter for fine particulates (asbestos fibres can get as small or smaller than a virus, and this is essentially where the problem starts, as it can become embedded deep in your lungs).
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