2001 3800 International Bus

[cullengw]

Hi Everyone,

Have a Hydraulic Brake issue that is causing the brakes to "stay on" and rub against the tires. We have a buzzing alarm that we know is telling us there is a brake issue.

Our best guess at the moment is that the wiring is shot. Would faulty wiring cause this kind of reaction? (brakes staying pressed against tire)

any one else run into a similar issue? We really dont want to spend a lot of money fixing a simple issue.

At the moment the bus is not very driveable because of this issue.

Any advice would be HUGE!!!

Thank you!!!!!

[nat_ster]

I'm so sorry you made the mistake of buying a bus with a ton of electronics.

Nothing I can add to help. You have a bus that is far more complicated than necessary.

For other folks reading this, please stay with fully mechanical engines. Much much more simple and cost effective to fix.

Nat

[cullengw]

hindesight is the greatest weapon, but it is also the greatest anchor

[cullengw]

also ABS, intercom, and automatic windows

[EastCoastCB]

Excellent response, Cullen.

[Dragonpop]

First check that the brake pedal is returning all the way to the top
of it's travel. If it is not all the way to the top it doesn't allow the
master cylinder to release the pressure on the system. Each
additional application of the brakes only adds to the pressure the
existing pressure which further locks the brakes. Some times
the pedal pivot will rust and stick the pedal from returning fully.
You can check this by reaching down and pulling the pedal up and
testing if the brakes are released. If that frees the brakes then lube
the pedal pivot till it moves freely for proper braking. If that doesn't
work we need to know weather it has disc brakes or drum brakes or
a combination of the two.

[austin1989us]

I had some brake problems when I purchased my bus. No bells or whistles to tell me about the problem, just a bus that wouldn't shift out of first gear, an overheated transmission, and some smoke coming from the affected brake.

My problem was that the caliper had some significant rust. We soaked it in PB blaster and used a screw driver to jiggle the brake pad away from the rotor. That was enough to get it home.

[nat_ster]

Originally Posted by cullengw

also ABS, intercom, and automatic windows

I'm glad I don't have any of that in any of my rides.

Plain and simple is best.

Nat

[EastCoastCB]

My 92 has ABS. And auto slack adjusters.

[sickrunvanyardsale]

Cullen did you ever get this issue figured out? I have a 96 3800 with hydraulic brakes (no ABS, DT466 mechanical) with a similar issue. Front calipers on both sides with sticking earlier this spring. Took calipers off and polished up all sliding/moving parts as they were very dirty/rusted. Put it all back together and drivers side front was still sticking. Got two new calipers/hoses for the front and am in the process of installing them and completing a full system flush. The best I can figure is that in my climate (high humidity/lot's of precipitation), hydraulic pistons don't like to be sitting around for long periods of time unused resulting in rusting/sticking pistons. Our local auto shop tends to concur with my theory but I'm not a certified mechanic so I can't say with %100 certainty that this is the problem.

[jazty]

There is nothing electronic about this brake system unless you have ABS. As far as I remember, the brake buzzer turns on if the hydraulic brake booster pressure is low, or the brake fluid drops dangerously low. The brake dragging issue is 95% of the time due to sticking brake pistons or calipers. Brake caliper rebuild kits are cheap. Do that first.