AT1545 thread

[Tango]

Then there is GPS???

[turf]

the 1545 did not have a speedo sensor. it only had a plug covering the hole.

today i flipped the old 545 over and took the pan off and i think the little plastic dohicky is the speedo gear.

taking out through the pan makes more sense than what i tried of coming out of the end of the shaft. maybe its not as destructive as i thought.

the hole for the sensor will cross that plastic at a 45% angle. yes, i agree that its a non contact magnetic pickup. this plastic thing looks like the book and the 1545 had a perpendicular gear there.

tomorrow the pan on the 1545 comes off and we'll see.




gps is fine
the motor has an hour meter on it too. the odometer is just bragging rights

[cadillackid]

thats the governor gear.. the governor is the bump in the side of the tailshaft.. the governors handle the base tailshaft speed when the transmission shifts.. that plastic gear is the driven gear and there are springs and weights on the governor itself..

there is typically RPM sensed shifting and tailshaft sensed shifting..

the modulator raises the shift points from base and is controlled by throttle input..

by matching throttle, input speed, and output speed you can pretty precisely control shifts... it was gears, springs, and cables on the mechanical transmissions.. on the modern ones its bar graphs and lines on a screen..

-Christopher

[turf]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPwrodxghrw

yep

[Rusty]

We fellow Bookmobiles are rooting for you !

Persevere.

[turf]

you guys know i'm a happy Coloradoan, so my bad, i didn't see it coming.



that piece in the middle - crankshaft adapter is too tall.

with the old spacer removed and new ones in place, the TC bottoms out on this adapter.

we pulled the transmission back and took the flywheel off again. here is the flywheel / crankshaft adapter with the TC sitting on it.



back to the machine shop tomorrow to cut some off that adapter.

[cadillackid]

so in other words you wouldnt have needed the spacers? remember the torque converter NEEDS to pull out from its fauthest pushed back position a little or you will trash the bearings in the pump.

or you still use the spacers and alter the hub?
-Christopher

[turf]

the hub is the same depth as the bigger spacer i removed. these spacers are half the size as before, so the hub need to be shortened to match the new spacers.

my heart sunk a bit when i saw the TC bottomed out. we tried it a couple of times, but you could see the problem thru the view hole in the bottom.

there will be an issue with the machine shop. the hub portion that needs to be trimmed is a thicker, machined "race?". they are going to have to cut a bigger hole and put an insert in or something to make that lower neck of the hub the same diameter.

[cadillackid]

your center hub adapter is a BUNCH heavier than mine.. mine was more like a pipe in terms of the gauge of metal..

is it not deep enough that they can just put it on a lathe and cut a portion of it off?
-Christopher

[turf]

yep, but the inside diameter will be sketchy at best when it gets shortened. here is a better pic.

i think the right distance will be the difference between the old and new spacers...3/4" or so. i think that original spacer was 1 -1/4" minus the half inch spacer is about 3/4".



that's going to get real close to the thinner portion of the hub

back to a prior post, but the bottom of the torque converter hub is flush with the mounting studs on both TC's.

[turf]

i picked up the shorter collar today.

first time at the machine shop, they charged me for 2 hours, today, it was just 15 minutes.



the original inside diameter is gone, i don't know if that's going to be a problem or not.

such is life.

[cadillackid]

that hub needs to fit the pilot of the converter pretty tight.. thats what pilots the converter so it spins true. if the converter pilot can move much inside that hub there os a good chance when its bolted down it will be slightly off center.. therefore off balance. off balance is how bearings and seals get torn up.
-Christopher

[Rusty]

Originally Posted by cadillackid

that hub needs to fit the pilot of the converter pretty tight.. thats what pilots the converter so it spins true. if the converter pilot can move much inside that hub there os a good chance when its bolted down it will be slightly off center.. therefore off balance. off balance is how bearings and seals get torn up.
-Christopher

Yeah, that inner surface was turned true. Weld a short piece of pipe in there and have them turn on lathe to previous inner diameter?

[turf]

idk

the machine shop didn't think there was much of anything they could do. they have a titanium paste that hardens and can be machined down, but they didn't think it would last against the hardened steel hub.

the old neck looks like it only rode like a 1/4" inside the original hub, this TC will be slammed all the way in with only a few millimeters to spare.

the original wear inside the hub was marginal. certainly not like something you'd expect to see with 300k miles and worn.

my concern now really is the lack of space inside there... its all crammed asses to elbows and i'm worried that it might bind.

[turf]

here are pictures of both the old and new setups.

this is the original:


and this is the new TC:



oh, i noticed today there is just a 1/16th of an inch or so of the original surface left on the inside where they cut.
idk, i think it'll be ok.

[EastCoastCB]

Sounds like all my projects lately. I've just been doing my best and hoping for the best and so far so good!
Keep the pics and progress coming!

[Booyah45828]

Should be able to mig weld the inside of that up, then turn it back to size in a lathe with a boring bar. It is just steel isn't it? But that definitely needs to be snug on the torque converter pilot.

[turf]

thanks for the input, i'm kinda stuck between what the machine shop says will work and you all.

without a better option i decided to put it back together with the pieces i have. we got the transmission back up and connected, but getting the TC bolts reconnected has been a challenge.

they might not have lined up quite "perfectly" as they appeared before. with the shorter plate the transmission fits back into place just fine, but only 4 of the 6 TC bolts really lined up and threaded into the TC. 2 holes are a thread off and the bolt doesnt quite start on anything.

so last weekend i got it back and kind of on. but instead of hurrying and cross threading the TC bolts, i stopped and will finish up tomorrow. I'm going to run a tap thru the holes that are a hair off and see if i can get this project finished tomorrow.

here is the the transmission, fitting square on the motor.



if you look close, you can see the bell housing is snug against the flywheel housing.

this is one of the holes that doesn't catch a thread into the TC. also you can see the tack marks on the flywheel. at first i tried epoxy to hold the spacers in place. that wasn't strong enough, so each spacer got tacked onto the flywheel.

i think i will run the tap down this and every hole in the TC. hopefully that ensures they all seat and will give the TC a chance to center a bit if needed.



right now, 4 of 6 bolts are in.
Tomorrow, i will redo those and get all 6 TC bolts in. change the shallow pan for the deep pan, re attach the shifter controls, the modulator, and the drive line, fill her with fluid and take a test run.
fingers crossed.

[PNW_Steve]

Slightly off in the weeds but I'll ask:

Is it possible to purchase AT-1545 parts that will swap into an AT-545 and give it a lockup converter?

That could be a great deal for all of those 545 equipped buses out there.

[cadillackid]

sure seems like the differences which cause the issues are in the torque converter being longer than the original. since the AT1545 was only ever sold as Military spec im guessing the parts were same. and probably tough to find like the 1545 itself is..

-Christopher