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Old 06-19-2017, 08:04 AM   #1
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AT1545 thread

Well as a few of you know, i went out and purchased an AT1545 to replace my AT545.

i just made it home from collecting the transmission and it was an interesting trip. the worst trip yet in my bus. i had multiple mechanical problems, some self inflicted, others just ghosts and course a couple of deal breakers.

I'm off to work this morning, and will post details of the trip tonight. the most important part is me, the bus and the new trans made it back to Colorado ok.

this is strapping down the transmission in Payson AZ.





today in Payson AZ, the temp should reach 118, the forecast for tomorrow... 120

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Old 06-19-2017, 08:13 AM   #2
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Nice on getting back wuth the 1545!! cant wait to see the swap begin!!!
-Christopher
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Old 06-19-2017, 10:17 AM   #3
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Hot ziggity! Another tranny swap thread. We are all gonna be transmission specialists before these end. Hope you record and post as well as Cadillac.
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Old 06-19-2017, 10:22 AM   #4
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isnt there a 643 swap thread somewhere on here?

one I wish that did a thread here is Txstreetman (he is in Tango neck of the woods).. swapped in a 2-stick tranny and replaced a 7.3 with a DT-360.
-Christopher
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Old 06-19-2017, 10:27 AM   #5
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Wow, a bus and a tandem axle trailer to haul a transmission is kind of like swatting mosquitos with a 3 pound hammer.

I've also made my bus my only means of transportation on public roads for the time being because it causes me to deal with any gremlins.

Trips like that definitely work out the kinks in the bus. Glad you made it alright. Sounds like it was a learning experience to some degree.

I think everyone is very curious about your new transmission. I get excited about the idea of using the PTO for something cool, but I don't know what yet.
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Old 06-19-2017, 08:28 PM   #6
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grrrrr, i had a long reply typed out and lost it. grrrrrr

ok back the the trip. it was a trip from hell.
i broke the fan clutch and lots of overheating problems.
the alternator stopped working and never charged the truck batteries.
it was a 110 when i got to AZ, so i wasnt sure how out the ordinary the overheating was due the fact i had no fan clutch, but it kept getting worse.
my aklternator was failing too. mostly it didnt work, but for a brief few seconds a couple of times it would spring to life and charge. i have installed some extra cooling fans so i hope that is enough to keep going. because of the alternator broblema dn the high elelctric draw to keep the bus cool i was killing my batteries. i stopped at a walmart and bought a battery charger. at least this way when i stopped to cool down, i can keep the batteries charged and get started back up.

i finally stop at an autoparts store to see if i can fix a few things. first off was the alternator. they didnt have a replacement, but said they could test it. well, they were wrong, they werent able to test it either after i got it off the truck.
i also notice since the alternator is gone, that my new water pump pulley is flopping when you hit it. the bearings were gone. fortunately the autoparts store had the water pump and i reassembled everything and went on my way.

well it overheated in just a few minutes, i pulled over, cooled it down, and kept going. it overheated again. i turned back around to the autoparts store to see about a thermostat. well, they didn't have that either, but could get it in a few days. i let the engine cool off again, and dissembled the alternator and tstat housing. with no hope a new tstat, i punched some holes in the one i have and re-installed all the parts, antifreeze.....

one of the best things i've installed on my bus was a garden hose for outdoor water. i tell you when you are standing on the side of the road over heating, it could be worse if you don't have a garden hose with water handy. i went through 2 - 40 gallon tanks of water on the trip.

the modified tstat did the trick. no more overheating almost a good day.
i spent the day at the autoparts store working on the bus and now she's running. i grab a pizza and hit the road (4:30ish).

as i enjoy my dinner cruising back home, i remember my other problem of the alternator not working. i have minimal lights on the bus as the battery is not being charged. i did some quick math in my head and realized i got 5 hours of driving and 4 hours of sunlight. if i didn't hustle, i was going to get stuck only a few miles from home and not be able to see.

the sun set on time about 8:26. i was about 60 miles from home. 50 miles on the interstate, and 10 across 2 lane county roads. by the time i pulled off the freeway, the headlights were to dim to cast much light out front. i felt like a ghost ship. i crawled in pitch black for the last 10 miles, i could barely make out the weeds on the side of the road. i pulled in my drive about 9:30.

other random broken items
sight bubble on radiator- cracked when sprayed with water
temperature gauge - not sure if it shorted, but last worked when sight bubble crack started spaying on it.
most all the gauges - hard to say, but i expect that to all be the same electrical gremlin. as the battery faded, so did most gauges.

so my first night was good, a few hours at a rest stop. picked up the transmission late afternoon the next day, and spent the next night on the side of the road charging up my start batteries only 50ish miles from payson.
overheating/charging. the following morning i make some headway through new mexico only overheating a couple of times. i stopped for the night at a rest stop just shy of returning over raton pass (loss of sunlight).
i wanted to do the pass fresh and cool in the morning. well i did, and i overheated near the top again. coasted down into trinidad colorado and spent the rest of the day at the autoparts store and driving right up past sunset and back home.

1700 miles round trip, started thursday night, got home sunday night. i tracked the mileage in the bus. im getting 7.5 MPG, or 6.5 MPG when i run the generator. fingers crossed i get it all fixed up and get better mileage with the lockup trans.
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Old 06-19-2017, 08:34 PM   #7
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yeoow!! what kind of fan clutch is on it? is it a viscous or electric?
a trick ive done with a busted fan clutch is drill a hole through it and put a bolt in it.. then the fan will spin full speed ahead.. did that on an old cadillac I had... for some odd reason no auto parts store in the south had the clutch for that car.. it was 100+ and with an 8.2 litre V-8 under the hood.. and a black convertinble top.. only way I didnt see the yellow and red temp lights was to turn off the A/C.. that wasnt happening.. so i borrowed a drill from a trucker.. and bolted my fan clutch solid and drove it the remaining 1100 miles.. man was my A/C nive N cold!..

good thing is you and the bus and the new tranny are back home!!!
-Christopher
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Old 06-19-2017, 09:04 PM   #8
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Tough trip but you got a lot of kinks worked out, and you were successful with the transmission. Congrats.
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Old 07-09-2017, 12:36 AM   #9
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i started working on the transmission swap. so far so good. i found this online guide thats been very helpful
http://www.waghornswood.net.nz/Manua...nsmissions.pdf

i drained the transmission.



removed all brackets, gear selector and modulator






working on the removing the bolts that attach the flex plate. there is an access hole on the side on the passenger side to undo the bolts. i got 5 of 6. there is always one that slows you down. the last bolt has soft shoulders, we stopped before it did much damage and will retry tomorrow with a better bolt remover socket. this is looking through the access hole at the flexplate and the one remaining bolt.


i found you can turn the alternator backwards with a socket to turn the flywheel and expose the bolts one at a time.

here is a couple of pics of the new transmission going in.



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Old 07-09-2017, 04:57 AM   #10
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Converter bolts should be installed with loctite, if there's not much oil or fluid around you can heat it, I had a couple tough ones on mine. I used 6 point impact sockets which are heavy and fit good. He sure it's not metric or your socket might fit but not super snug. Then I used a mallet and tapped on the ratchet handle which busted the loctite loose.
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Old 07-15-2017, 03:55 PM   #11
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that one bolt is still giving me problems. heat may be worth while.

its a 15mm head, and with the shoulder it just kind of twists up and off. i need to make a store trip and get a 1/2" 15mm and try the impact driver on it.

i got the drive line removed. no need to take it apart. there are 2 carrier bearings that when they came down the u joint easily separated from the transmission.

not the best picture, but this is next to the transmission looking back. i have some electrical tape wound around the cups of the u joint that you can see. its up above the trans now so it should be out of the way.

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Old 07-15-2017, 04:42 PM   #12
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good deal looks up and out of the way.. of course you dont have that drum brake in the way like I did.. makes it nice..

heat may be your best answer on that bolt if you can still get any grip on it at all. chances are you are fighting the factory-recommended Loctite.. looking at the others that came out can give you an idea if theres indeed any applied..

is there any way to see if that bolt goes into an adapter ring or if it is going directly into the torque converter? any kind of view-plate on the bottom of the housing? reason I ask is if its directly into the converter.. you know you are throwingthe converter away so you could drill the head off the bolt rather than waste many hoiurs trying to get it out. more than once when I know something isnt a part im re-using I dont feel bad about thrashing it during removal.
-Christopher
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Old 07-15-2017, 05:07 PM   #13
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yes, drilling is being considered.

i'm confident that the impact driver will get it. this is old style impact, the harder you hit down, the harder it turns the bolt. not a pneumatic wrench.

i've had one for working on aluminum motorcycles, those bits strip way too easy.

Honda Impact Driver - Universal Tool
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Old 07-15-2017, 05:14 PM   #14
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I never thought about using that.. (I have a couple in my toolbox I forget about 1/2 the time. great idea if you have the room to swing the hammer... ..
good heavy 6 point impact socket too.. they *usually* fit the bolt head tighter than standard sockets..

-Christopher
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Old 07-16-2017, 03:55 PM   #15
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the flex plate bolt gave way today and we got that transmission out.








it was tricky getting out. the deep pan makes it tough and there was an adapter in between the flexplate and the torque converter that made it longer than would come out easily.
once we got the adapter plate out, gravity took over and the transmission came out.

here is the adapter and the torque converter, still draining fluid.



i see a problem heading my way.

i don't think i'll need the adapter for the 1545, the torque converter is about an 1" fatter than the 545's converter, but these holes won't line up. idk, maybe i need the adaptor for it and im ok.

half way there
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Old 07-16-2017, 04:59 PM   #16
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install the converter fully into the 545 and the 1545 and measure it... looks are deceiving.. when I did mine I freaked out as I thought the same thing.. until I fully rotated on and got all the splines in on my new transmission... then I measured and it was within an 1/8 of an inch.. and theres usually 1/4 to 1/2 inch of extra room back and forth on the converter to play with.

I had that adapter ring on mine also.. looks real similar. and the adapter ring fit perfectly into my allison 1000 converter... remember loctite on all converter bolts// esp the ones going into the adapter ring... you have to drop the trans if you lose one of those..

also check your pans.. your dipstick likely went in the side of the pan on the 545 as it looks like you have a deep pan 545... if the pan on your 1545 isnt a deep pan you may have issues with the dipstick and will want to swap the pans across. (pattern should be the same)...

remember when seating a converter that it must grab both sets of splines and fully seat... you can feel when it seats into the transmission. it will thud back in and not wobble as much..
-Christopher
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Old 07-16-2017, 06:45 PM   #17
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Does the deep pan from the at545 fit the 1545?

Sent from my SM-G530W using Tapatalk
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Old 07-16-2017, 06:56 PM   #18
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Excellent thread!
I really wanna upgrade my 545.
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Old 07-16-2017, 07:18 PM   #19
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the pan bolt pattern Should be the same from what im reading... turf can tell for sure since he has them side by side.

this is a great thread.. this has the potential to be the most direct swap to lockup converter there is..

my swap was decently direct as far as custom projects but i still had to fabricate and get creative on several parts.. plus a 1545 at auction is a LOT cheaper than a 1000 / 2000 .. if these start coming available military surplus then it seems like a good thing for those with 545s..

and no electronics.. good for those that dont want to jack with those...
-Christopher
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Old 07-16-2017, 10:41 PM   #20
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the plan is to swap the deep pan over to the 1545. that should solve any issue with the dipstick.

the shallow pan will be easier to install, so it will go on as is, and afterwards i'll put the deep pan on.

i recently buggered the deep pan, and i'll need to pound out the dent and weld any crack. and i want to take the deep pan off and see if there is an oil pick up that goes with the deeper pan.

both pan's bolt pattern are the same, so i think its going to fit.

i need to reroute my transmission hoses from my trans cooler. so i probably have a new hose from napa that i'll need to make.


except for the one bolt that was frozen in the flex plate, removing the transmission was easier than i expected.
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