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Old 07-18-2006, 01:33 PM   #11
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ya, the pump allows fuel to flow through it when it is not on.

here is a photo of an extremely similiar looking fuel pump



I could't find the pump on autozone.com because you are forced to search by verhicle make/model.
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Old 07-25-2006, 02:01 PM   #12
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Year: 1980
Coachwork: Gillig 1980, 2003 Thomas E-350 shorty
Chassis: 636/E350
Engine: Cat 3208 NA/7.3
Rated Cap: 78
8.2 solenoid

My '90 8.2 t quit one day; shut her off to fuel, didn't start back up. After cranking and cranking w/ether, noticed what appeared to be a motor smoking. An hour of cool down and she fired right up. The "motor" is actually a "work solenoid", made by Trombetta. It has slways started since then, but figured it should be replaced, since it was smoking. Lookng for a replacement, the DD dealer asked "do you mean the shut-off solenoid?"
"I guess so; what happens when it goes bad?"
"It wont start"

Front center of engine, boxy unit where the throttle cable is attached, on drivers side. Sticking out horizontally w/a 2 wire connector. looks like a small DC motor. Only thing there w/wires attached.
I don't know how to check it, but something to keep in mind.
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Old 07-28-2006, 07:10 PM   #13
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If it's just a fuel cut off solenoid, try finding one for a different model perhaps. I know my 6.6 Ford uses a solenoid to cut the fuel. No "Pull to Stop" t-bar here.

I'm sure you could also do that. The vast majority of buses use a manual cable operated kill valve. You just pull the handle out until the engine dies. I'm sure something like that could be retrofitted with relative ease on you AND your pocketbook.
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Old 08-07-2006, 12:34 AM   #14
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You might be able to clean the solenoid contacts. They might be corroded inside which would cause it to heat up and smoke. Try opening it up and see if you can find where it is getting hot.

You might also check truck/bus junk yards and see if you can find an 8.2.
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Old 08-08-2006, 06:51 PM   #15
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my solenoid went bad in downtown san fran about 3 am. Took me a long time to figure otu what was wrong. I used a bunji cord temporarily, then fixed it long term with a maunal pull handle. The advantage of a manual handle is that if the alternator were to go bad, your bus would run indefinately as long as it didn't run out of fuel, allowing you to make it to a safe location to perform any necessary repairs.
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Old 01-22-2017, 09:02 PM   #16
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I thought my bus ran out , but it was something else. But in my attempt to rectify and push fuel to motor from tank I went to Home Depot and got a two inch grey plastic female conduit fitting, (matches fuel cap thread) and glued a white pvc 2" to 3/4 " reducer and threaded a 3/4" to 3/8 " black iron fitting and threaded a 1/4" male air fitting into that, used Teflon tape on fuel tank filler and screwed it on, aired up the tank to about 5-10 psi and worked great held pressure.

cost about 7$

that way you are assisting fuel transfer to system.

don't overdo it with the pressure , it won't take much and we lot easier than putting in a pump.

10 pounds MAX.
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