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Old 07-09-2006, 11:30 PM   #1
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Having never touched an 8.2, I can only hope that this helps. On my injector pump there is a small primer. It just looks like a little circular thing on top, but if you turn it counterclockwise (I think), it pops up. Then per Ford's directions, you pump it atleast 20 times until you feel pressure. Don't feel pressure? Keep on pumping! Anyway...after sufficient pumps you then close it back down (we're talking about 100 pumps here). Then you crack the bleeder between the elements on the fuel filter assembly. After sufficient back draining time (like bleeding brakes), you pump it up some more. You repeat this process over and over again until you feel ready to turn the key. When you go to start it you keep your foot on the floor. Within 10 seconds it should fire up. It will be cranky, but if it keeps running and eventually clears itself up you have been successful. If it dies you need to pump some more.

I believe Jason is the resident expert on priming diesels as just about every post he has about his WVO conversion mentions having to do it

BTW...did you fill the filters with fresh fuel before putting them on? That's that much less fuel you have to prime

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Old 07-10-2006, 04:43 PM   #2
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Since an 8.2 does not have an injector pump it is a little easier to prime. A lot of guys with the two stroke detroits use a small cheap automotive fuel pump to do the trick. It sounds like you were on the right track pressureizing the tank.

You might try putting the return line from the rack into a bucket of fuel. Then use a fuel pump or the shop vac and see if any bubbles are coming out. If you have bubbles then there is still air in the system. It is also possible that you have a bad check valve in the system somewhere. If this is the case the fuel is draining back into the tank. Though if this just started after installing new filters then it is probable just lost prime.
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Old 07-10-2006, 09:37 PM   #3
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Dee-dee-dee.....I had a brain fart when I started talking about priming the IP since he doesn't have one and I knew that....

Didja get it started yet?
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Old 07-10-2006, 11:09 PM   #4
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It is a 4 stroke. In fact, it was Detroit's first foray into the world of 4 stroke diesels. The reason it says GM could be two fold. First, it's in a GM chassis. Second, GM owns (or owned anyway....not sure about now that Merc has a stake) Detroit Diesel, Allison, Turbo-hydramatic, New Process Gear, New Venture Gear, etc. GM is a huge company with their hand atleast first knuckle deep in A LOT of pockets.
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Old 07-11-2006, 03:09 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by convertabus
The funny thing is that a couple of years ago I ran low on fuel (even though my "60 gallon" tank will never take more than 45 gallons). I think it was in Kingman, AZ. !
You should ask phill about running out of fuel @ 45 gallons when you have a 60 gallon tank lol......Does YOUR fuel guage read empty when you've only burned 45 gallons?

I don't know anything about the 8.2 DD, so i have no good info on how to prime the system. I'm not at all opposed to going to autozone and installing a $35 "universal" fuel pump into the circuit. Anyone that's gonna run veggie should certianly install one. They're cheap and easy to work with. I will tell ya a story about my dt360....

She was brand new to me. I was driving along, and she acted like she just ran out of fuel even though i was @ about 1/2 tank. I tried and tried and tried to get her primed, but it wouldn't work. I put 10 gallons of diesel into the tank, but it still woulnd't start. Finally i decided that there must be a hole in the fuel line somewhere between the tank and the engine allowing the lifter pump to suck air rather than fuel. I ended up replacing the fuel line and she fired right up.
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Old 07-11-2006, 10:46 PM   #6
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My tank is supposed to be 60 gallons, but I've only ever fit about 35 and my gauge is TERRIBLY inaccurate. I choose to use the odometer as a fuel gauge instead as mine seems to have a mind of its own. The big duct tape sign on the mirrow that says "Fill at 1/4 tank or above! Gauge is wrong!" certainly has proven to be true
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Old 07-15-2006, 01:31 PM   #7
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It sounds like you still have air in the lines. I also have an 8.2 on a GM bus. I also never let her go below 1/4 tank. I hate to have her die on the road. I can get about 50 gallons in the tank.

I need to replace my fuel filters and all the rubber fuel line. I was looking it over real close the other day and noticed the rubber lines are all cracked.
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Old 07-17-2006, 09:59 PM   #8
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Ok...here's the straight poop from a Detroit mechanic. I explained your problem and he just laughed. Here's how he said to fix it....get a small hand pump and thread it into the outlet of the fuel filters. Then put the supply for the engine on the output from the pump. Pump and pump and pump and pump until it feels like your arm is going to fall off. Then have a person crank the bus while you continue to pump. HAve a can of ether ready because you will likely have to keep giving it very short blasts as it purges the air. Once it is running smooth you need to disconnect the pump from the lines and hook them back up to the filter....fast. As the bus chokes on the air it's sucking in while you do that, have your partner keep it alive with a little ether. Too much and the motor will die.

After explaining that he said, "I bet he'll never run out of fuel or forget to fill the filters when he changes them ever again."

I believe the electric pump as Jason suggest would also work quite nicely.
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Old 07-18-2006, 05:52 AM   #9
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you can mount the aux pump anywhere between the tank and the injector pump. The closer to the tank the better though. If you have steel fuel lines, you can cut them and use rubber fuel tubing and hose clamps.

The fuel pump i used i got from autozone. I simply asked for a generic universal fuel pump that creates under 10 psi. It was pretty cheap, well under 50 bucks. I don't have the model number or make handy, sorry

wire a switch in so that the pump is only on when you need to prime the injector pump.
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Old 07-18-2006, 09:08 AM   #10
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How did you bypass the pump when it wasn't on, Jason? Did you just make the lift pump pull the fuel through the pump? I'm just curious as I continue work on my veggie conversion.
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Old 07-18-2006, 12:33 PM   #11
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ya, the pump allows fuel to flow through it when it is not on.

here is a photo of an extremely similiar looking fuel pump



I could't find the pump on autozone.com because you are forced to search by verhicle make/model.
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Old 07-25-2006, 01:01 PM   #12
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Coachwork: 2003 Thomas E-350 shorty
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8.2 solenoid

My '90 8.2 t quit one day; shut her off to fuel, didn't start back up. After cranking and cranking w/ether, noticed what appeared to be a motor smoking. An hour of cool down and she fired right up. The "motor" is actually a "work solenoid", made by Trombetta. It has slways started since then, but figured it should be replaced, since it was smoking. Lookng for a replacement, the DD dealer asked "do you mean the shut-off solenoid?"
"I guess so; what happens when it goes bad?"
"It wont start"

Front center of engine, boxy unit where the throttle cable is attached, on drivers side. Sticking out horizontally w/a 2 wire connector. looks like a small DC motor. Only thing there w/wires attached.
I don't know how to check it, but something to keep in mind.
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Old 07-28-2006, 06:10 PM   #13
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If it's just a fuel cut off solenoid, try finding one for a different model perhaps. I know my 6.6 Ford uses a solenoid to cut the fuel. No "Pull to Stop" t-bar here.

I'm sure you could also do that. The vast majority of buses use a manual cable operated kill valve. You just pull the handle out until the engine dies. I'm sure something like that could be retrofitted with relative ease on you AND your pocketbook.
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Old 08-06-2006, 11:34 PM   #14
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You might be able to clean the solenoid contacts. They might be corroded inside which would cause it to heat up and smoke. Try opening it up and see if you can find where it is getting hot.

You might also check truck/bus junk yards and see if you can find an 8.2.
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Old 08-08-2006, 05:51 PM   #15
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my solenoid went bad in downtown san fran about 3 am. Took me a long time to figure otu what was wrong. I used a bunji cord temporarily, then fixed it long term with a maunal pull handle. The advantage of a manual handle is that if the alternator were to go bad, your bus would run indefinately as long as it didn't run out of fuel, allowing you to make it to a safe location to perform any necessary repairs.
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Old 01-22-2017, 08:02 PM   #16
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I thought my bus ran out , but it was something else. But in my attempt to rectify and push fuel to motor from tank I went to Home Depot and got a two inch grey plastic female conduit fitting, (matches fuel cap thread) and glued a white pvc 2" to 3/4 " reducer and threaded a 3/4" to 3/8 " black iron fitting and threaded a 1/4" male air fitting into that, used Teflon tape on fuel tank filler and screwed it on, aired up the tank to about 5-10 psi and worked great held pressure.

cost about 7$

that way you are assisting fuel transfer to system.

don't overdo it with the pressure , it won't take much and we lot easier than putting in a pump.

10 pounds MAX.
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