Bus wont start

[Brad_SwiftFur]

A note on the Group 31 batteries ...

Anyone ever go to start their bus and the starter seems "weak"? Voltage checks out fine? First things first - make sure *ALL* the connections are nice and tight. You don't have to crank 'em down, you don't want to strip the threads.

The last company I worked for had a number of Volvo road tractors on which the battery terminals would loosen over time, no matter how tight we kept them. No one, not even Volvo could explain why this happened, and it didn't happen on all our trucks; so we simply came to accept this as "one of those things", and simply checked the connections regularly on the trucks this happened to.

[cowlitzcoach]

That battery box looks like it started life with two 8D batteries.

Glad to hear you got things started!

There are now Group 31 batteries that have a higher Cold Cranking Amp (CCA) rating than some of the lesser expensive 8D batteries. With three Group 31 batteries you could have almost 2x the CCA's as what you might have with two 8D batteries.

It is very important as you shop around for batteries that you compare apples to apples.

Generally speaking a Group 31 battery costs less than an 8D that has a lower CCA rating.

If your battery cables go on a stud and they are held on with a nut rather than the more common post with a cable clamp consider yourself lucky. The studs provide a much better connection and don't have nearly as much problems with corrosion as a post/clamp battery.

[milkmania]

Originally Posted by cowlitzcoach

If your battery cables go on a stud and they are held on with a nut rather than the more common post with a cable clamp consider yourself lucky. The studs provide a much better connection and don't have nearly as much problems with corrosion as a post/clamp battery.

Extremely simple fix with new copper eyelet ends (lugs) from farm supply, diesel supply, golf cart supply, Walmart, etc....

Pick up as many copper ends that you think you'll need, get some flux paste, solder, and a cheap propane torch. Cut off the old cable ends, slip on some heat shrink tubing, strip back the insulation, dip the wire in the paste flux, slip on the new lug, solder it on, slip the heat shrink tubing over connection, heat it up and you're done.

Note: a soldered connection will be one of the most secure connections you can make as a do it yourselfer... Without having one of the large crimp dies similar to bolt cutters.

[Rameses]

Originally Posted by milkmania

Note: a soldered connection will be one of the most secure connections you can make as a do it yourselfer... Without having one of the large crimp dies similar to bolt cutters.

Hmmm... Now you've got me wondering if a pex crimp tool would work on those.

[milkmania]

Originally Posted by Rameses

Hmmm... Now you've got me wondering if a pex crimp tool would work on those.

This is one they use from Lowes, it's for terminating lugs on Lincoln welder leads.

https://m.lowes.com/pd/Lincoln-Elect...9-05bafb28e460

And a 16 ton handheld crimper

16 Ton Hydraulic Wire Crimping Tool Battery Cable Lug Terminal

Personally, I'd use this method... Crimp with vice and THEN SOLDER

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=2EI-ttFb7uM

[oredigger]

What would you use on the battery to go from posts to lugs?

[cadillackid]

The batteries in my bus have both. I converted from lead terminals to the stud type mentioned here. I have a crimped that you whack with a 5 lb hammer and then I filled it up with solder for durability.
Much better connections than I had with the lead terminals. I used a map gas torch and electronics rosin core solder, not plumbers acid core solder
Christopher

[superdave]

if it starts in the back but not with the key its the safety interlock system.

[tincaneasybakeoven]

Note: a soldered connection will be one of the most secure connections you can make as a do it yourselfer... Without having one of the large crimp dies similar to bolt cutters.
imo, the solder joint is a much better connection, crimp for mechanical connection fill with solder for the electrical connection. if you fill it up there's zero chance of corrosion at the wire to terminal connection, which is an underlying problem that creates extreme cranking amperage's. due to the high resistance due to the non conductivity of copper oxides due to the corrosion. if you pull enough connections apart you will find the firs 1/4 inch of bare wire is not a good indicator of the wire condition further into the crimp.

[milkmania]

Originally Posted by oredigger

What would you use on the battery to go from posts to lugs?

This is what I used to convert my suburban to the lugs we're talking about...
I had a very good 42 month non-pro-rated FREE battery with top lead posts, and my suburban was those side mount terminal ends.

[jazty]

While we're talking about battery terminal lugs I'd like to add that I just ordered a set for a friends 7.3l Powerstroke. Stock it comes with an abysmal monstrosity of a lead lug with 3 big cables coming in to it. The dang thing won't even stay on the post anymore, so I'm cutting it off and putting lugs on the cable ends. Then we'll use these fellas:


$2.37 each at VTE Warehouse.

I personally prefer the threaded terminals.. I've had much better luck with them over time.

[milkmania]

Originally Posted by jazty

While we're talking about battery terminal lugs I'd like to add that I just ordered a set for a friends 7.3l Powerstroke. Stock it comes with an abysmal monstrosity of a lead lug with 3 big cables coming in to it. The dang thing won't even stay on the post anymore, so I'm cutting it off and putting lugs on the cable ends. Then we'll use these fellas:


$2.37 each at VTE Warehouse.

I personally prefer the threaded terminals.. I've had much better luck with them over time.

That style looks like they'd work very well, with a good solid connection!

[EastCoastCB]

First thing I did with both buses I've owned was pull the seats and clean up the battery terminals and compartments. Good stuff!

[cadillackid]

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB

First thing I did with both buses I've owned was pull the seats and clean up the battery terminals and compartments. Good stuff!

THIS!!

well on the battery part.. i still have seats in both..
-christopher