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Old 06-18-2016, 05:22 AM   #1
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Year: 1986
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Clutch Adjustment on 86 Intl with Dana?

Hello all. New member and have found many answers here as a lurker, but I can't find information on adjusting the clutch on an 86 Binder with a DT 466 and Dana/Spicer CM-5552-D. There is no adjustment on the pressure plate like in all the instructions I can find. This is a pull type release that has a threaded tube between the release fingers and the throwout bearing. Looks like you loosen locknut and thread tube in to take up for wear, but I have no idea what measurement I'm aiming for. Clutch works as-is, but engages at the very top of pedal travel. If you don't have the answers, I'd like to at least know what this system is called so I can search for it. Thanks, Chris.





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Old 06-18-2016, 09:36 AM   #2
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Clutch adjustment

That is a strange setup. Must be very old school. I believe you loosen the nut closest to the clutch and turn the one at the bearing to the desired adjustment.

For now I would go with about 3/4 inch between the bearing face and the trans bearing retainer.
You basically want about 1/2 inch or so free play at the top of the pedal travel. If you have no travel at the top of the pedal, you may be dragging the clutch partially disengaged.
Look on the clutch cover, somewhere there must be an i d tag.
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Old 06-18-2016, 12:12 PM   #3
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Thanks BB90. A friend had mentioned 3/4" clearance also, but I was unclear where to measure. I'll have another look this morning and see if it makes sense. I'd say there's 1" to 1.25" clearance there now. I think there is a little free pedal as it is. I've been seeing 1" to 2" recommended for free pedal, at least on larger trucks. I think I'll likely have to adjust the exterior linkage once the internal is done, correct?

How thick is the clutch plate friction material when new on the plates with four individual friction pucks rather than the continuous rim of friction material? This unit looks pretty thin to me, but different than I'm used to.

Didn't think to look for a separate tag on clutch cover.

Thanks for all help. Trying to get a friend out of my driveway and underway to Alaska.

Chris
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Old 06-18-2016, 12:45 PM   #4
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You are measuring between the trans bearing retainer and T O bearing. If that is a ceramic clutch it looks mighty thin in the pics.
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Old 06-18-2016, 12:47 PM   #5
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Actually, the friction material looks thin no matter what. I would suggest changing out the clutch before a long haul.
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Old 06-18-2016, 11:24 PM   #6
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Following up for others' future reference. BlueBird90's instructions were right on. the lock ring was a little tough to get started with the punches we had, but some penetrating oil and a few tries did it. There was initially 1.125" clearance between the throwout bearing and the tranny input bearing housing. We adjusted it to .75" by threading the tube out of the collar at the release fingers and towards the rear. It has normal right hand threads and turned easily by hand. We threaded the external adjustment on the horizontal rod in as far as it would go, but it still releases about 3/4 of the way to the top of the pedal travel because the disk is so worn. Free pedal distance is good.

BB90, I'm agreeing that the clutch is pretty worn. I would have liked to send these folks on their way with everything checked out and fixed, but it's time for them to get out of our driveway. They're good at finding people to help them along the way. I drove the bus home about 80 miles last fall over some pretty steep hills and couldn't detect any slippage. I've also driven it around locally pretty aggressively to check it out and had no problems. I think that they've got a couple of thousand miles left on this if they treat it right.

I never did find an ID plate on the clutch housing, but did find a remanufacturer's tag on the pressure plate. It says "Like-Nu, Remanufactured by Midland Brake" Model number is 140-601-1854. Photo below.

Thanks for your help BlueBird90. This forum has been a big help with the bus. I'm going to eventually go back and make a thread consolidating what I found on registering/converting a bus to a motorhome in Washington for this project. With the applicable RCWs in hand, it's pretty hard for them to force you to get it inspected.

Chris


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Old 06-19-2016, 01:16 AM   #7
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clutch

Glad to help. Never heard of Like Nu clutches, must be an obsolete make.
BTW, tell your friends that they don't need to replace the clutch with the exact same one. they can go to the newer adjusting ring type in the future.
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Old 06-19-2016, 02:17 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebird90 View Post
Glad to help. Never heard of Like Nu clutches, must be an obsolete make.
BTW, tell your friends that they don't need to replace the clutch with the exact same one. they can go to the newer adjusting ring type in the future.
The only bad thing about a self adjusting clutch is that when they "wear out", there will come a point at which the throwout bearing will be at the edge of the clutch fingers, and the clutch will not disengage, usually with no warning. Personal experience in a Volvo. I managed to get it home (shop) empty by simply dropping it into 1st gear (10-speed) to get it rolling and floating the gears as I usually do.
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