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Old 03-05-2018, 03:40 PM   #1
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kingpin locking pin replacement

Hi guys,started to change calipers and didnt knew how to take it apart from wheel and somehow unbolted(found out its Kingpin) kingpin locking bolt-pin.
broke threaded part and cant smack out other side.it is quiet tight.but i will figure it out.where do i get similar to lock it up. sets that include pin for my f super duty 97 doesnt look similar.
is it safe to drive with half of that bolt ?
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Old 03-05-2018, 03:44 PM   #2
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Old 03-05-2018, 04:54 PM   #3
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All of the king pin retaining pins I have seen were tapered. You have to drive it out from the side the nut was on.
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Old 03-05-2018, 06:23 PM   #4
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somewhereinusa got it. It's a tapered bolt that locks against the pin and is pulled tight by the nut. They should hammer out easily with a drift punch. However, the last ones I did needed to be drilled out they were in there that tight.
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Old 03-05-2018, 08:34 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by somewhereinusa View Post
All of the king pin retaining pins I have seen were tapered. You have to drive it out from the side the nut was on.
If they're anything like the tapered cotters used on bicycles with traditional European-style cottered cranks, be very careful before attacking them with a BFH. The end nut should only be used to secure them after they've been pressed into place, never hammered - if the nut is used to draw them on, even with the taper lubed with a thin smear of grease or anti-sieze, it will probably strip or snap off. Likewise, when removing them they should either be pressed out, or hammered only against a junk nut that should be lightly on the thread to prevent buggering up the threadform or mushrooming the end. There's a subtle art to dealing with these tapered cotters: too much brute force damages them, but too little does nothing. I use plenty of penetrating oil over several days, plus heat to expand whatever they're in, plus plenty of colorful language involving various religious entities and their maternal ancestry! No fun.

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Old 03-16-2018, 12:46 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Iceni John View Post
If they're anything like the tapered cotters used on bicycles with traditional European-style cottered cranks, be very careful before attacking them with a BFH. The end nut should only be used to secure them after they've been pressed into place, never hammered - if the nut is used to draw them on, even with the taper lubed with a thin smear of grease or anti-sieze, it will probably strip or snap off. Likewise, when removing them they should either be pressed out, or hammered only against a junk nut that should be lightly on the thread to prevent buggering up the threadform or mushrooming the end. There's a subtle art to dealing with these tapered cotters: too much brute force damages them, but too little does nothing. I use plenty of penetrating oil over several days, plus heat to expand whatever they're in, plus plenty of colorful language involving various religious entities and their maternal ancestry! No fun.

John
1 punch with 8lb bfh and its popped out.and 8grade bolt instead old one.cant find that pin online,only sets.Thank u guyz
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Old 03-16-2018, 02:40 PM   #7
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No, No, No, No, NO!

It has to be the correct tapered pin in order to lock the kingpin in the bore. A bolt, no matter the grade or size will work. Please do this right.
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Old 03-16-2018, 03:12 PM   #8
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No, No, No, No, NO!

It has to be the correct tapered pin in order to lock the kingpin in the bore. A bolt, no matter the grade or size will work. Please do this right.
what possibly could happen ?i dont want to buy whole set for hundred bucks to replace 1 small pin.
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Old 03-16-2018, 04:23 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by KGZ91 View Post
what possibly could happen ?i dont want to buy whole set for hundred bucks to replace 1 small pin.
Three things can happen:

1. Nothing much

2. Excessive and fast wear causing $700 damage to parts.

3. The pin shears, the kingpin dislocates and the wheel falls off.

Do not discount #3, I have seen it happen.
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Old 03-16-2018, 04:58 PM   #10
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You'll ruin the hole in the axle, requiring either

A) Axle surgeons to fix what you have = $$
B) The replacement of the entire axle = $$$$

Either choice is going to require you to buy a new king pin kit anyways. So For 100 bucks, I don't even know why it's even an option for you.

And that's under the assumption that the king pin doesn't fall completely out of the axle altogether causing you to lose the entire wheel, hub, knuckle assembly going down the road taking out god knows what in the process.

If you're that hard up for cash, go to the local truck shop and see if they have one to give you that will work. If you're flat broke, just buy the kit off amazon, use what you need, and return the rest. But using a bolt in place of it shouldn't be an option.

There's certain **** you can skimp on. Then there's suspension and braking components where it shouldn't even be questioned.
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