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Old 09-11-2006, 08:29 AM   #11
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To make more power your burning more fuel, check the mileage whilst your playing here...

How are you adjusting the pump its too bad you cant adjust it from the drivers seat... get on flat land where you dont need the extra power then dial it back to only make the power you need, increase your mpg by burning less fuel.. get into a head wind or tall hills then dial it up again.
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Old 09-11-2006, 10:41 AM   #12
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it's literally as easy as turning a screw.

Use a allen wrench to remove a plug in the top of hte injector pump
use a deep well socket to loosen a jamb nut
back the screw out for more power with a flat head screwdriver
tighten the jamb nut
re-install the plug in the injector pump

i'll be making a trip to london ontario in a couple weeks with the bus, so i'll keep track of fuel economy numbers then. Since i only have to put the pedal @ 3/4 now to do the same speed i used to keep the pedal all the way to the floor the fuel economy numbers might not change too much. (fingers crossed)
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Old 09-12-2006, 06:48 PM   #13
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i bought most of the items to complete the propane injection system. I spent lots of time reading about propane, it sounds safe enough. When used in moderation it can produce improved fuel economy numbers. (even after including the propane that's being burned)

I've spent about $75 so far.

I'll take photos and let everyone know how everything works out
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Old 09-19-2006, 10:57 PM   #14
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Turning it up

Well just how much did you turn the screw on the pump ? What was the response on the exhaust meter
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Old 09-20-2006, 02:32 AM   #15
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Pyrometer...just like it sounds. Pyro=heat/fire, meter=well...meter.

A pyrometer is a gauge to measure exhaust gas temperatures. Under certain loads, especially over fueling, your exhaust gases before the turbo reach WELL over 1000 degrees. A turbo spinning at 100,000 rpms+that much heat=bad news so you put the pyrometer in place to monitor things. The beauty of high exhaust gas temps is that they go away pretty easily. You just let up with your right foot. The high exhaust gas temperatures are why you should idle your buses for 2-3 minutes before shutting it down after a light load and longer if you've just really worked it since the oil cools and lubes the turbo and it doesn't get any oil if the engine isn't running/
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Old 09-20-2006, 10:59 AM   #16
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i think the most important time to let your engine idle for a couple minutes for a cool down is when you pull into a rest area along the highway. (i'm not opposed to just leaving my bus running for the 10 or 15 minutes we are there) This is one of the few examples of when your engine goes from running under load (full load in many cases as some of us drive with the pedal to the metal most of the time) to getting parked almost immediately.

when you pull off an exit to drive to a gas station ,or a restaurant, the engine generally gets some idling time....ie stop signs/lights, driving around the parking lot looking for a place to park ect. Not having a guage it's hard to say, but i would immagine that the engine has cooled down significantly by the time you finally pull next to the fuel pump. It is however still a good idea to let her idle for a couple mins before shutting down. If you look at all the big trucks at the truck stop, you'll notice that every one of them leaves their truck running while fueling. Diesel fuel is far safer than gasoline. A spark will not ignite diesel fuel unless the fuel is above about 120 degrees, even then the chances are pretty slim.

well, that was almost completly off topic of more power......but was tied in with the pyrometer question.....
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Old 09-20-2006, 12:32 PM   #17
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I find that my gas engine is more likely to backfire when turning it off if I do not idle it for a minute after running on the interstate like that. I think its a good thing to do with any engine.
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Old 09-20-2006, 03:47 PM   #18
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I stole the text here from another website, but i think he also stole it from yet another site....

http://www.geocities.com/kaufmanns@s...rformance.html

I added photos, although i did not take any when i actually had the jamb nut out of the IP.

"To the rear of the pump on the top is 2 different allen plugs. The bigger one is the fuel rate, and the smaller is the star wheel, or pre-boost smoke adjustment.



To do the fuel you take off the plug with either a 3/8" or 10 mm allen wrench. Now tie up the fuel shutoff sol. or pull cable in the run position and you will see the adjustment screw. You may need to put a brick or such on the accelerator to keep the screw in the right spot under the hole. Break the jamb nut loose with a 3/8" or 10 mm deep socket and loosen the screw all the way. At this point it will be loose in the rack, but not fall in. Take some needle nose pliers and carefully remove the screw. Run the nut so there's 3-5 threads left on the screw(away from the head). Now (again-carefully) put the screw back in and tighten it with a regular slotted screwdriver up to the jamb nut. Then a good snug on the jamb nut and it's done. If you drop the screw inside the pump you can retrieve it easily with a pencil type magnet. Untie the shutdown sol. and remove the accelerator weight tool. Under the smaller allen plug is the star wheel. Take the plug off with either a 5/16" or 8mm allen wrench. Spin the star wheel towards the front of the pump(rotate towards the pass side) to increase low end power(smoke)and away for less low end smoke. The governor spring adjustments are the same as the newer 466's described above."

i labeled some more IP photo's if you want to see them

http://www.skoolie.net/gallery2/v/Sk...-Bus/porch/IP/
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Old 09-20-2006, 04:20 PM   #19
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Hey Jason

Thank you thank you. You have done this community a good service.
I do not own a 360 or 466 Intl. Your time, energy, and skills are a great asset to this group. I know ya spent lots of time to make this information available. I have been unable to learn the secrets of the Cummins PT pump.
The pump folks guard the information very carefully. Got any ideas for an old guy? Again thaks. If I can help you in some way, send a note. Frank
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Old 09-20-2006, 04:27 PM   #20
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you have that crazy pancake cummins? is it the 220?

I've seen lots of data on the cummins 5.9 pump. it's nearly identical to the newer dt360/466 pumps, but have yet to see anything on the horizontal cummings.
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