Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 07-06-2009, 08:02 PM   #11
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Wimberley, Tx
Posts: 197
Year: 93
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: ?
Engine: 5.9 Cummins
Re: Overheating! Help me out.


A serious pet peeve of mine. I have had numerous vehicles that liked to overheat. First was a toyota truck which introduced me to thermostats. Make sure it is new. Second, 2000 landrover discovery. Wettable water, an additive. I am not sure what it does but it works. Third, "86 4runner, bad clutch fan. Fourth, 1969 Mustang w/ HiPo 302. This one was the real learning curve. Radiator too small. Sheared pulleys. Inadequate flex fans. I tried everything. I ended up replacing the radiator with an aluminum one with twin electric fans which required an electrical upgrade. I tried everything to cool this baby down in Texas and the electric fans are definitley your friends.
The taurus and mark VIII fans are the way to go in addition to your stock stuff. They can be had for cheap and installed with heavy duty zip ties. With a little research on the ford forums you will even see learn how to install a temp sensor and relay so the thing runs automatic. Change all your fluids, including tranny if the tranny does not have it's own radiator. I'm splurging on Schaeffer products. You may want to invest in rodding out the radiator as well. Do anything that will help transfer heat thru and away from the radiator.

Check websites/forums of people who like to increase horsepower. They all seem to have overheating issues. It makes you wonder if engineers have a fear of radiators
swhite832 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-2009, 08:39 PM   #12
Bus Nut
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 280
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Ford B700
Engine: 5.9L Cummins
Rated Cap: 65
Re: Overheating! Help me out.

Performance cars, hotrodding, dragracing etc have their own set of problems and solutions as well as their very different goals. Electric fans are put on to reduce the parasitic loss and save space, no real other reason. There is a HUGE difference between a 3k lb car that you are cooling and a 25k lb bus, its almost like telling someone to transplant their Mustang engine into their semi truck because it is so fast and powerful. I know everyone is trying to help but suggesting to throw money and parts at a problem on a stock bus that probably did not overheat new from the factory doesnt do a whole lot of good to him or anyone else reading. Fluids dont need to be changed until they are ready and it isnt cheap on a diesel. Just because oil has 10k miles on it or the coolant has 100k does not mean that it is bad, that is part of what sampling and testing will tell you. Its not a bad idea to try free solutions, its stupid to change parts without finding the underlying issue.
kamoo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-07-2009, 04:20 AM   #13
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Wimberley, Tx
Posts: 197
Year: 93
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: ?
Engine: 5.9 Cummins
Re: Overheating! Help me out.

The performance car example was just example. The links were to give him an idea where the information is and more importantly "HOW" to deal with it. Perhaps I should have qualified my statements with "if all of the obvious has been done, then there are options." I have not dealt with a hydraulic fan but it doesn't sound cheap on time or money to retrofit.
I do not own a rear engine bus but it seems apparent they have their own set of overheating issues for obvious reasons. When engineers are overruled by the marketing department is is up to the individual to make it what it should be. In a rear engine it is apparent by comments made here that the cooling tolerances are tight and you will see problems if all is not perfect. The Landrover I owned was like this. Give it a cross look and it would give you the CEL.

So Case, by the numbers, these are the steps I would take(the list is flexible, change at will)

1. Clean the fins on the radiator(s)
2. Make sure all air flow within and into the the engine compartment is not all. MAKE SURE THE AIR FLOW IS FLOWING THRU THE RADIATOR NOT AROUND IT. There should be foam material in between radiator and other items(acting like a sealer caulk) and usually a shround. CFM doesn't do anything if it is not completely directed THRU the radiator.
3. make sure belt is tight
4. New cap
5. New Radiator fluid...flush, flush, flush some more. Pay attention to what is coming out of the radiator.
6. New thermostat...probably ok but why not. They are not expensive and the fluid is already removed. (rule it out)
7. Clutch fan...if you have one. Check it. Make sure it is working as designed. They do fail.
8. If you have changed your other fluids or have accurate records when they have been changed don't sweat it. You can send a sample off to be tested for engine wear and peace of mind if you desire. I think its about $20.00 plus shipping.
9. It has been my experience that when a water pump's a big event. They bleed out or the shaft shears and craters the radiator. It is not cheap nor replacement friendly but it is a component that must be ruled out. I had a powerstroke with 290000 miles and never replaced the water pump.
10. If all those things are ok and you want piece of mind spend 75 bucks and a day to add air flow. It is not a reinvention of the wheel. It is insurance on a 108* day.

Think heat transfer and what would restrict that. You have water flow and air flow. Maximize both...and most importantly don't get discouraged. It is my belief that "some" cooling systems were designed to their lowest tolerances to save a buck so it has to be in perfect condition. If that is the case here we can fix it with stuff other people threw away. IMHO I will overkill the cooling capacity of any of my vehicles. As long as you can provide the power requirements of electric fans, more is always better...but fix everything else first....jumps off the soap box.
swhite832 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-07-2009, 10:32 AM   #14
Bus Nut
Papabear's Avatar
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Southwest Wyoming
Posts: 334
Year: 1991
Coachwork: ward
Chassis: IH
Engine: dt466
Rated Cap: 72
Re: Overheating! Help me out.

Throwing in my 2 cents. Does the radiator have a fan shroud? I had one that had a shroud removed and it always ran hot. Did some searching and found the correct one and installed it. Temps. dropped 20 degrees and never overheated again.
"I've never been lost, but I been mighty confused for several days"
Papabear is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2009, 04:57 AM   #15
Bus Nut
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: California, Just NorthEast of San Fransisco
Posts: 539
Re: Overheating! Help me out.

Probably a silly question, But couldnt you also put an air scoop on the radiator to help direct air into it?
Sojakai is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2009, 09:51 PM   #16
Bus Geek
the_experience03's Avatar
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Saint James, MN
Posts: 2,669
Send a message via MSN to the_experience03 Send a message via Yahoo to the_experience03
Re: Overheating! Help me out.

Originally Posted by Sojakai
Probably a silly question, But couldnt you also put an air scoop on the radiator to help direct air into it?
Sure, as long as vehicle speeds are sufficient to move enough air and you aren't too wide legally. Fans are most important when the vehicle is moving slowly which is often caused by high load for us. Of course he needs to make sure there isn't an underlying problem with the base system before he goes on modificating (that's modifying and fabricating).
Skooling state at a time...
the_experience03 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-25-2009, 01:18 PM   #17
Bus Geek
lornaschinske's Avatar
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Roswell, NM
Posts: 3,587
Year: 1986
Coachwork: BlueBird
Chassis: 40 ft All American FE
Engine: 8.2LTA Fuel Pincher DD V8
Rated Cap: 89
Re: Overheating! Help me out.

Nick Russell had an MCI highway coach. I'm not sure were the radiator is on an MCI (he sold it earlier this month, by the way) but on our Eagle 05 it was on the side. Many coach owners have the mister system added onto their radiators.

Have you checked to see if your radiator is clean? We had to have our radiator in the BB rebuilt while on the way out to NM. The outfit in TX (great guys) had to resolder the top cap back on. They dumped a lot of old excess solder out along with a pile of sand & rocks. Our bus was used to transport whitewater rafters and we figure they just used river water to add to the radiator. Also someone had, many times in the past, soldered the radiator with out using flux. Even with a new cleaned & repaired radiator, we still built a mister system while parked overnight in Odessa. I had 2 garden kits for drip irrigation systems. We did have to buy new misters at Lowes (and added to the bus while parked at Lowes). Luckily we had packed everything we owned into the bus, so I had an extra 12VDC RV water pump and a 30 gal fresh water holding tank along. We also bought a toggle switch to turn the pump on/off as needed. I'm not sure if it is something we really need. Our bus seems to have governers on it (or the gas pedal is messed up... only moves about 1 to 1 1/2 inches when floored) and the hills combined with the 100F+ temps may have had something to do with it. When we start converting it, we will include a new (less leaky) mister system.

Don't trust a new radiator cap. We had to have the guys in TX replace the brand new one with another new one. We only got a few miles down the road before turning around to take it back to the repair shop. They said it happened all the time.
This post is my opinion. It is not intended to influence anyone's judgment nor do I advocate anyone do what I propose.
Fulltime since 2006
The goal of life is living in agreement with nature. Zeno (335BC-264BC)
lornaschinske is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-25-2009, 09:55 PM   #18
Bus Crazy
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Upstate NY (Mohawk Valley)
Posts: 1,096
Re: Overheating! Help me out.

Originally Posted by CHEESE_WAGON
And most would be surprised how common a bad radiator cap is. It's not so much the cap, but the rubber seal. If the system can't hold pressure, it won't hold temperature either....
The repair manuals from 40 years ago showed mechanics testing radiator caps with a hand-held device that had an air pump and a pressure gauge. You screwed the cap on one end, and pumped the handle on the other until the cap started to let off excess pressure, and read the pressure on the gauge.

I've never seen a mechanic use one, and most car mechanics today probably don't even own one. Of course, 40 years ago they had to set the ignition point gap, and there was no connector on each car for a cable from a computer that would tell you what was wrong.
Someone said "Making good decisions comes from experience, experience comes from bad decisions." I say there are three kinds of people: those who learn from their mistakes, those who learn from the mistakes of others, and those who never learn.
Redbear is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-25-2009, 11:47 PM   #19
Bus Nut
frank-id's Avatar
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Twin Falls, Idaho
Posts: 808

Hey, I have and use a radiator cap tester all the time. A radiator cap merely raises the boiling point of the water or coolant. Most water boils at 212degrees
F, but for every pound pressure the water will then boil at 2 degrees higher. A 10 pound pressure cap will allow the bboiling temp of water to boil at
232 degrees. The larger the cooling system, the lower the system pressure. Frank in Idaho
frank-id is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-31-2015, 03:14 PM   #20
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 18
Year: 1993
Chassis: Vista
Engine: Dt360
You guys are awesome! Thanks for all the info
Raven19988 is offline   Reply With Quote

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
b600 1983 ford drum brakes and overheating issue autoqual Conversion Tutorials and How-to's 0 08-17-2014 10:41 PM
engine overheating in mountains jeephauler Conversion General Discussions 3 08-15-2006 02:21 AM
Highways and Mountain Roads Overheating frey2 Everything Else | General Skoolie Discussions 3 06-16-2005 04:50 AM

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:28 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.