Questions for the seasoned BUS GURU'S

Papabear · 09-29-2009, 01:30 PM

1. Cab heater removal? I am thinking of doing a side door convertion and put a passenger seat up front with me. one problem is no leg room as the pass. side aux heater takes up that whole area. Anyone removed this heater and used an aftermarket unit?

2. Exhaust stacks on a bus? After shortening the back and building a platform/deck bumper, I still plan to pull a trailer for the extra toys. I have thought of running the exhaust up the back. I could cover it with a nice chrome stack cover, like the big rigs and keep the smoke up in the air and off whatever I am towing. Anybody done it?

3. Installing roof vents. What kind of suprizes should I look for when doing so. Since the roof is curved and the vent is flat. Will the plastic conform to the roof as I bolt it down?

4. Anyone changed a sterring wheel? I've got an Inernational/ward. Found a cool steering wheel that said for international w/adapter. Was wondering if the hubs were all the same for any paticular year. weather its a 91 bus or a 91 dump truck.

thanks fellas & gals

P.s. another new thing learned. Moved the bus from storage yard to back of house. Anything that can fall off - will fall off

Man ain't lived till he's been hit in the head with a belt sander (AND MY WIFE WASN'T HOLDING IT

)

Papabear · 09-29-2009, 03:28 PM

Quote:

I'm in the process of ripping it out, I'll post pics as I go, I can tell you that at least in my Carpenter the unit on the right houses both a heater core and above at dash line the wiper motor.
Expect the same on the other side, and relocation the secondary electrical system switch panel is going to be a pain in the butt. Of course I had to disconnect most of it just to get the bus back from Missouri.

As is mine. I just want to remove the pass. side and leave the wiper motor as is.

Quote:

Ive seen pics, but when I asked my mechanic (in MO) about exhaust relocation he pointed out the primary concern (and rules) are it needs to exhaust after the occupied space, and at no point run through a cab area. I've seen pics with stacks and they where in front of the occupied space but may have qualified as releasing exhaust too high for the regulations to apply.

I want to run the exhaust, outside, up the rear of the bus, exiting on top. And move the main pipe on the inside of the frame to free up room for storage.

Kirbystud · 09-29-2009, 03:40 PM

I have a chevy bus and I installed a steering wheel out of a Z28 in mine. works great!!!! I have to turn the wheel 1 more revolution lock to lock... Exhaust will be ok just make as big as you can. Going all the way back and then up is a lot of pipe. You don't want to much back pressure.
Having a turbo will help.

Griff · 09-29-2009, 04:54 PM

Here's one from another board:
http://www.mrsharkey.com/forum/vwtp.php?t=965

the_experience03 · 09-29-2009, 05:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kirbystud

I have a chevy bus and I installed a steering wheel out of a Z28 in mine. works great!!!! I have to turn the wheel 1 more revolution lock to lock... Exhaust will be ok just make as big as you can. Going all the way back and then up is a lot of pipe. You don't want to much back pressure.
Having a turbo will help.

The wheel should be harder to turn due to the smaller diameter and therefore lower mechanical advantage, but is the same lock-to-lock. The lock-to-lock count is set by the box and steering stops, not the wheel.

Papabear · 09-30-2009, 11:04 AM

Thanks so far guys.

paul iossi · 09-30-2009, 01:00 PM

heater and defroster ducting can be fabricated from PVC pipe and fittings and flexable hose like from a shop vacuum, just fit the pipe under the windshield and cut a slot in it with a grinder or router, you can even bend the pipe a little with judicous use of heat. to rerout the exhaust go to the big truck parts place and you can get 10' sticks of straight pipe, mandrel bends, adapters, hangers etc then just cut and weld the pipes to fit and install, run the pipe inside the framerail away from the electrical and fuel lines up over the rear axle and out behind the back of the passenger compartment, I would recommend 4'' pipe. I think that if you have more than 20 ft of pipe a muffler becomes an option especially on a turbocharged engine.
I run a custom 4'' header from the turbo to behind the rear wheels on my 92 dodge diesel pickup with no muffler and have never been challenged about excessive noise.

Kirbystud · 09-30-2009, 02:42 PM

The wheel should be harder to turn due to the smaller diameter and therefore lower mechanical advantage, but is the same lock-to-lock. The lock-to-lock count is set by the box and steering stops, not the wheel...

Make sense to me I don't know where I came up with the extra turn.... Must have been drinking that day. Sorry....

GoneCamping · 09-30-2009, 08:30 PM

As for the roof vent, you'll find the curve of the roof will not be much of an issue, at least I didn't have a problem with it. You should use Butyl tape (get it from any RV dealer) to seal under the flanges.

As for the inside, if you have stock ceilings the interior trim ring should fit all right. I had a drop roof, so I had to use TWO interior trim rings, and cut one so that it slipped over the other one.

Papabear · 10-01-2009, 10:59 AM

I knew I'd get some great answers. Paul, Thanks for the exhaust info. I'll look into that. I was thinking of doing away with the muffler. My dt466 is a turbo. Gone Camp'in, Love the inside roof idea you used. It looks very good. Kirbystud... A z-28 wheel. Sounds interesting. How did you adapt the hub? Or being a chevy bus, did it slip on?

Kirbystud · 10-01-2009, 11:22 AM

The steering wheel took about 15 mins to change out. No adaptors.... Thats about all I can tell you.

Before wheel change.....

Before horn was installed......

And when I was done.....

Check out the seat....It is out of a Cat Combine.....Heated, Air bags for your back and sides, Plus air ride....FREE FREE.
A truck driver that I know got it for me.. He was picking up a combine at the cat plant and seen 4 of these sets by the dumpster still in wooded boxes.. He ask if he could have them.......From what he was told there had a model change and the seat company told them to pitch them.....I priced one out from cat $1800.00 bucks..I was in the right place at the right time...I am sorry I just had to tell that story.....

Papabear · 10-01-2009, 04:25 PM

Kirby, Great score on the seat, It all looks good.

frank-id · 11-04-2009, 11:11 PM

I am not fond of large 22.5 inch diameter steering wheels. I decided to change the wheel in my 1968 Crown bus. Crown bus Company went out of business some time in 1991. I decided to use a 15 inch GM rally wheel. Went to salvage yard and cut off a steering shaft about 5 inches long. I machined a steel sleeve that would fit nicely over Crown steering shaft and GM shaft. The wheel was put in place and fit good. The adapter sleeve got some side holes for some button welds. I am still using the setup with a Jeep wheel and the spline is same as GM. Bus is 1968 with Cummins NHH 743 cu in. 10 speed Road Ranger. Frank

frank-id · 11-04-2009, 11:13 PM

Wheel looks and drives nice.......... Frank

Papabear · 11-05-2009, 09:32 AM

Thanks Frank, It looks good. I would also like a smaller wheel 15"to 18" would be good. Aside from the looks (bad) I'd like more room between the wheel and the top of my legs.

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