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Old 04-11-2016, 07:10 AM   #61
cheryl_ann44's Avatar
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 27
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International 3800 chassis
Engine: T444e
Rated Cap: 77
Originally Posted by Robin97396 View Post
Yeah, a hitch extension works good and makes space available for steps and a rail. When I'm towing I just use the trailer tongue for a step. Step hole in the bumper for everything else when I'm not at home with my semi permanent steps.

Are you also using the hitch to attach a stabilizer for the rear of the bus?
Originally Posted by Booyah45828
Something made. 1/4 thick 2x2 angle iron and 1/8 thick steel diamond plate tied into the frame rails. Sturdy enough that I could robably mount a hitch on it if I desired.

you can get by with less metal thickness if you mount a tie back to the first cross member ahead of the hitch (forward). its used to distribute the load to more of the frame. have seen a chain and ratchet binder fulfill that role (although temporarily). chain only helps on pull and not load push (stopping).

Two questions-are you talking about mounting the steps/porch to the main rails under the buss--or extending them and
stabilizer for what/where--didn't understand that
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Old 04-11-2016, 10:04 AM   #62
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Join Date: May 2014
Location: West Ohio
Posts: 692
Year: 1984
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: International 1753
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Rated Cap: 65
My steps from the picture are bolted/welded to the frame on the bus. I also added the fact that my setup is sturdy enough IMO to mount a reese hitch to if I ever would desire it.

Everybody after that mentioned different alternatives to mounting steps/hitches to a bus.

Jolly Roger, here is my build thread. . There are a few more pictures in there. The paint is aluminum flavored rustoleum enamel sprayed on with a cheap hvlp gun from walmart. It's not as shiny as it once was because of uv oxidation to the paint(didn't clear coat, probably should have) but it's still pretty bright in the sun.
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Old 09-27-2017, 07:21 AM   #63
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: SE Oklahoma
Posts: 36
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freightliner FS65
Engine: 5.9 Cummins 24 Valve
Rated Cap: 35
Beat solution that I have found so far and I will be using it as well.
Thanks for the information.
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Old 09-27-2017, 09:39 AM   #64
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Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Colorado
Posts: 167
Originally Posted by Robin97396 View Post
At home I use several sections/rounds of tree of varying length to make steps into the rear of the bus. When traveling I use a foot hole cut into the bumper, which isn't perfect but better than straining something trying to get in or out.
Thanks for the idea. I am doing this until I get around to a more civilized step building project.

Back to the original subject security. - I had a car break in not to long ago and put some alarms on the cars. They were cheap $30-$40 from Amazon, you tie them in with the door sensors and they make noise if someone opens a door when it is set.
If you charge your battery once in a while and have a small amount of juice to spare the car alarms are cheap.

A folding bus door is just not very secure by design. It could be good to have another layer of security.
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Old 02-17-2018, 12:36 AM   #65
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Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 276
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
for those that have original school bus doors.. (main, wheelchair and rear).. how are you securing them?

the front main door is easy as it latches and is a bit tougher to be opened..

however the wheel chair door and the rear exit door are the ones im interested in... my bus is too old to have an electronic interlock.. I still want it to be able to be easily opened from inside if an emergency occurs..

but i want to be able to lock it from the outside when I leave my bus parked..

I realize a bus is never fully secure.. however id like to at least prevent the local kids from playing in it or the homeless guy from sleeping in it when its parked overnight outside..

the wheelchair door I may just bolt shut since im removing the lift??

Good old fashioned hasp and padlock (keyed alike unless you're a high school janitor) is what I'm using. Add an eyebolt on the unlocked side and reinstall the lock once you enter and for travel so you're not locked in by the time you arrive. For occupied security, I'll post once I figure out what is convenient and secure. Ill post the folding outer lock on my progress next time I visit. Right now I'm repairing the beater F150 that's replacing my nissan hardbody that Got in a fight with a log trailer in the dark.

Sent from my LGL64VL using Tapatalk
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