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Old 04-20-2017, 05:19 PM   #131
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I've bought a lovely short nap roller and a 2" brush for this special occasion. That was back when it was still a simple paint job.
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Old 04-20-2017, 05:30 PM   #132
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I've bought a lovely short nap roller and a 2" brush for this special occasion. That was back when it was still a simple paint job.
That's the ticket!

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Old 04-21-2017, 08:18 AM   #133
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That's good. I was calculating all these five minute patches along the bus. I'm not going for the Partridge Family look. I'm sure it's worth it to actually have the paint actually last a while. With common colors like rustoleum it's always easy to touch up.
Is it worth the time to clearcoat a bus paintjob?
That's why I went with rustoleum. I've touched up areas on mine(battery door hinge for example) with a spray can and it matched up about perfect with the original stuff bought by the gallon.

I never clear coated. If you want it to stay glossy and not oxidize I would suggest clear coating. My bus is the aluminum color from rustoleum. When first sprayed it was almost mirror like, now after 3 years(I think) it has kind of an oxidation to it, almost like the bottom of a beer can. It's fine by my standard but if you use a vibrant color like red I could see where you might be dissapointed by it.

I imagine though that if you clear coat, you'll have to wash/wax in order to protect the surface much like you do with a car.
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Old 04-21-2017, 08:28 AM   #134
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That's why I went with rustoleum. I've touched up areas on mine(battery door hinge for example) with a spray can and it matched up about perfect with the original stuff bought by the gallon.

I never clear coated. If you want it to stay glossy and not oxidize I would suggest clear coating. My bus is the aluminum color from rustoleum. When first sprayed it was almost mirror like, now after 3 years(I think) it has kind of an oxidation to it, almost like the bottom of a beer can. It's fine by my standard but if you use a vibrant color like red I could see where you might be dissapointed by it.

I imagine though that if you clear coat, you'll have to wash/wax in order to protect the surface much like you do with a car.
One thing to consider.. if you are getting something custom tinted :
-always ask for the formula. Keep it safe.
-Try and avoid anything that needs to use yellow tint - it fades fastest
-Any of these implement paints or enamels are going to eventually chalk up because they are alkyd based, as much work as it is paste wax will extend the time it takes before it chalks (oxidizes). Don't wax before the paint has fully cured.
-It is possible to clear coat, but as noted, it will make it nearly impossible to match a touch up.
-Get the best paint you can (not always the most expensive). Go to a paint store and tell them what you want to paint and how you plan on painting. There are tons of great coatings and paints that I could use if I had a safe place to spray... But since I don't have a 40x15 spray booth handy, rolling it is lol


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Old 04-21-2017, 10:58 AM   #135
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I'm due for a trip to the surplus store up in Boring Oregon so I can get some of those heavy MOP chemical gloves and a Dutch gas mask. Unlike yesteryear, I'm actually trying to protect my few remaining brain cells at this age.

Every time we talk about painting it starts raining again.
How much paint are you going to use? How much bus are you painting? I've got a flat nose and only plan on painting from the windows down.
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Old 04-21-2017, 12:39 PM   #136
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Well, the surplus gas mask and chemical gloves are for the xyline so I don't loose any more brain cells. My bus is only 26' long, but it looks real big if you get close. It was going to be a much simpler paint job than what's on the table now, but yes it pays to do it right. My paint is only going to be satin finish anyway. I believe I'll skip putting on a clear coat since I'm not trying to be shiny.

Rattle can paint jobs start sluffing off after a few years allowing you to begin to see the old paint. It's easy enough to touch up though. I figure the rustoleum will be easy to touch up too as long as I don't start blending colors. What's a color blind guy going to do anyway? This paint job is for everyone else.

I'm still trying to figure out a way to do the xyline without being close enough to breath the vapors. A sponge mop would be nice but it sounds like xyline would melt the sponge. My quart can of xyline would barely wet the string mop. Besides it sounds like it needs to be rubbed in to get the gunk off. I've never unwaxed a vehicle before.
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Old 04-21-2017, 12:52 PM   #137
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My bus is only 26' long, but it looks real big if you get close.
You don't have to get close to a 40 foot bus for it to look big because it is big.

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Rattle can paint jobs start sluffing off after a few years allowing you to begin to see the old paint.
I should probably be asking DMV just how un-yellow the bus needs to be. A light thin coat of rattle can without sanding or xylene. Then when it's time to paint , hit it extra good with the xylene to get rid of the rattle can. Njsurf73, this is pointed at you. Doable or too much effort? Looks like the sprayers need 12 CFM. I don't want to buy a 12CFM compressor.

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I'm still trying to figure out a way to do the xyline without being close enough to breath the vapors.
I think you're over doing it a bit on the fumes. You're outside rihgt? One of the canister paint masks can be bought for $20 and it good enough.

You never said how much paint you're using. Is half of a 40 foot bus 1 pint, quart, gallon, or barrel? I've no idea and just looking for ball park.
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Old 04-21-2017, 01:06 PM   #138
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You don't have to get close to a 40 foot bus for it to look big because it is big.

I should probably be asking DMV just how un-yellow the bus needs to be. A light thin coat of rattle can without sanding or xylene. Then when it's time to paint , hit it extra good with the xylene to get rid of the rattle can. Njsurf73, this is pointed at you. Doable or too much effort? Looks like the sprayers need 12 CFM. I don't want to buy a 12CFM compressor.

I think you're over doing it a bit on the fumes. You're outside rihgt? One of the canister paint masks can be bought for $20 and it good enough.

You never said how much paint you're using. Is half of a 40 foot bus 1 pint, quart, gallon, or barrel? I've no idea and just looking for ball park.
It will always take a heck of lot more effort to remove paint than apply it.
12cfm is a lot of air. Look into renting a "capspray" or "turbine hblp" set up from a paint shop. It's a self-contained hvlp machine that provides the air to a cup gun, or rent an airless sprayer (not as nice a finish bit pretty good)
The picture below is what you would be renting. It weighs in at about 30 lbs and can fit in the back seat of a car.


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Old 04-21-2017, 01:22 PM   #139
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A gallon of Rustoleum goes a long way, especially after it's thinned. I'd rather have a thin coat of rustoleum than rattle can paint.
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Old 04-24-2017, 07:23 AM   #140
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The picture below is what you would be renting. It weighs in at about 30 lbs and can fit in the back seat of a car.


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$104 for daily from Home Depot. I haven't checked anywhere else yet.

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A gallon of Rustoleum goes a long way, especially after it's thinned. I'd rather have a thin coat of rustoleum than rattle can paint.
That's teh way I'm leaning now. Need to find the Rustoleum color catalog now.

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.
Can the "Protective Enamel" be custom mixed at Home Depot like the "normal" house paint? I'm assuming the protective enamel is what I'm after in the first place.
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