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Old 03-10-2016, 06:58 AM   #11
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
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Year: 1992
Coachwork: Ward/AmTran
Chassis: International
Engine: dt466
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Nor have I.
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Old 03-10-2016, 11:40 AM   #12
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Location: West Ohio
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Year: 1984
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: International 1753
Engine: 6.9 International
Rated Cap: 65
The old idi's aren't all bad. Yeah they are gutless by todays standards but I've never seen one blown up. They are stupidly simple and seem to always outlast the vehicle they've been put in. They never came with turbos, but they're have been kits over the years to put a turbo on them. Banks still has their offering available. I'd probably choose an IDI over the powerstrokes, especially the 6.0 and 6.4.

It's definitely not a buying point by any means but I wouldn't shy away from it like other engines. Then again, maybe I'm just biased because I own one. At 1200 bucks, I'd say it's worth a look. Just depends on what your time is worth.
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Old 03-10-2016, 06:23 PM   #13
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CrazyCal the DT530 was not available for very many years and it was a costly option so very few buses were built with that engine.

But for the schools that wanted a premium highway cruising school bus the DT530 was a go to option. I have seen more than a dozen over the years and every one of them was a trip bus optioned with all of the bells and whistles.
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Old 03-10-2016, 06:30 PM   #14
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So I see the DT 408 in all the lists, the one I just got has the 190hp 408 my question is will it hold up maybe another 100,000 if taken care of? It has around 180 now.
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Old 03-11-2016, 10:02 AM   #15
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Engine: 6.9 International
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They can last upwards of a million if taken care of. All the ones I've seen were extremely durable engines with the proper maintenance. When they went to electric controls the durability suffered somewhat but the core engine is still reliable.
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Old 03-11-2016, 10:54 AM   #16
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I would not bet on a million miles but you should have at least 150K trouble free miles ahead of you.

There are a few things that will help you achieve longevity in that engine.

First and foremost, you need to use the proper oil in your engine. DO NOT use the LE formula oil that is out there for sale at places like Costco and Wal-Mart. The LE formula is NOT reverse compatible and does not have the ZDDP additives that the older engines need to go long distances. Whether the oil is Delo, Rotella, Ursa, Delvac, TRC Pro-Spec, etc. you want to get 15W-40 unless you are in a really cold climate where you would want to use 15W-30 in the winter.

Next you need to monitor the pH levels in the coolant. You want the pH to be as close to neutral as you can get. As you go away from neutral in either direction you will start to have issues with scale and electrolysis. It can even contribute to the corrosive action of cavitation when the engine is running. If you don't have a coolant filter you need to put a coolant additive like NAPA's Nacool on a regular basis. Do NOT let the engine get hot. If you are climbing a long steep grade in the summer, if the engine temperature starts to climb to 200* you need to either drop a gear or pull to the side of the road to give the engine a rest. Getting there is more important that getting there fast.

Next you need to make sure the air filter(s) are clean and free flowing. It will slow you down and make you use more fuel if the air flow is restricted.

Lastly, purchase fuel from stations that pump a lot of fuel so that you know that the fuel you are getting is fresh. You can't avoid purchasing bio-blended fuels. Just be aware that the bio-blended fuels do not have the shelf life old fuel had. It will start to lose some of the fire after about 90-days. In addition, the chemicals that keep the bio parts blended are hydroscopic. The chemicals that keep the bio blended also keep the water suspended instead of precipitating to the bottom of the tank. Using a good quality fuel conditioner like TRC's DZL-PEP with AAT will reduce the problems of stale fuel and it will get the water out of the fuel. It will also add lubricity back into the fuel that was taken out when the requirement of low sulphur fuel was mandated.

Good luck and I hope you have a lot of trouble free miles ahead of you.
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Old 03-11-2016, 11:49 AM   #17
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Thanks a lot, the info will help me keep the beast going a few more miles. We are planing to full time, and being OTR drivers for almost 40 years, we don't plan to run like crazy any more been there and done that..time to stop and see all those things that we had to drive by at a high rate of speed.
I had not heard of this engine before so just wanted to ask.
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