Newbie. 1990 Ford E350. Cranking but not starting

[Zerhackermann]

Originally Posted by cowlitzcoach

If the engine is cranking and you are not getting any action then I would suggest that most probably you have knocked off the power feed to the pump shut off.

On an engine like yours, instead of a mechanical shut off to the pump there is an electric solenoid. No power to the shut off results in no fuel going through the pump. It is designed to shut the engine off when you have no 12-VDC. In other words, if your alternator and battery go dead so will the engine.

Make sure before you spend any more time and $$$ on other stuff that you still have power to the shut off allowing fuel to flow.

I once spent a whole morning trying to figure out why one of my 1990 E-350 buses wouldn't start. It ran like crazy if I dribbled fuel into the intake while cranking (after making sure the glow plugs weren't still on).

After hooking the power lead back to the pump it started right up.

You may have knocked the power lead off like I did or you may have a problem in the switch that is no longer sending the signal to the pump. Either way, no power to the pump=no fuel=no start.

Good luck and let us know what you find out.

Ol 78 is happily clattering away!

I think you hit on it. I had the warmer on it for an hour but I dont think that was really enough to make the difference based on how little response from the motor that I got.

I had to google around to find out what power lead you meant. I found it and it is zip tied in place - so someone was familiar with this sort of a problem. I worked it on and off a few times because the connection isnt terribly solid. Hit the key and it fired right up.

So I will give the connector a little squeeze to give it a bit more bite.

BTW - I dont mind replacing common wear items in an old and unfamiliar vehicle. Battery glow plugs and controller seem to be pretty common. and its peace of mind.

[cowlitzcoach]

Battery and glow plugs are certainly wear items.

But I would hold off installing a new controller. I would just put it in a handy to find location and keep the old one in place. They generally do not cause any problems.

[Zerhackermann]

Originally Posted by cowlitzcoach

Battery and glow plugs are certainly wear items.

But I would hold off installing a new controller. I would just put it in a handy to find location and keep the old one in place. They generally do not cause any problems.

The controller was my next step. But now it seems to be unnecessary.
I appreciate the assist

[BlackJohn]

Nice to see your bus running again. Those problems can drive one bonkers but in the end it was a simple fix. I think everyone reading gained some knowledge in this instance. You'll be ready for it next time.It pays to inspect and check and snug everything under the hood regularly.
I bet you are celebrating now.

[Zerhackermann]

Originally Posted by BlackJohn

Nice to see your bus running again. Those problems can drive one bonkers but in the end it was a simple fix. I think everyone reading gained some knowledge in this instance. You'll be ready for it next time.It pays to inspect and check and snug everything under the hood regularly.
I bet you are celebrating now.

I am indeed celebrating!
I took it on an errand run and everything was peachy. Then it decided to get cranky about starting once I unloaded and went to put it in its spot.

So I will have to look harder at that connection and test the solenoid

[BlackJohn]

The solenoid in itself must be good if you drove it today without issues. Does it have push on connectors or studs to bolt ring connectors to? just squeeze it up good again but make sure metal to metal is clean and shiny. Then a bit of die-electric grease to prevent the air from getting at it.

[Zerhackermann]

Originally Posted by BlackJohn

The solenoid in itself must be good if you drove it today without issues. Does it have push on connectors or studs to bolt ring connectors to? just squeeze it up good again but make sure metal to metal is clean and shiny. Then a bit of die-electric grease to prevent the air from getting at it.

Good thought!

[Zerhackermann]

Just an update - it has been hard to start. But it has been starting. Ive purposely kept it off the block heater because I want to gauge it's start worthiness without a tether.
Ive had some suspicions that the starter was weak...and then this last week the starter was really not cranking well until it finally just refused to answer the call.

So I went and replaced the starter.

THis is not a task I would wish on anyone I like. That top bolt (now known as "That @#$%ing Bolt") is a work of evil. Once I found it, and then managed to get a wrench to it, it was all over except for the cussing.

Now it cranks hard, fast, and gleefully. Warm, it takes a merely looking at the key and the motor fires. Tomorrow morning I will find out how it does when it has been sitting overnight and its 50 out.

[cowlitzcoach]

I was having a starter issue on my 1994 E-350 with the 7.3L.

I took one look at what it was going to take to access everything and promptly took it to town and had a shop replace it.

Yes it cost a lot more than if I had done it.

But it took them a whole lot less time to do it than if I had tried to do it.

At the end of the day, one has to determine if it is better to pay someone to do something or muddle along and do it yourself.

My time, while not super valuable, is still worth something.

And saving the aggravation is well worth the price of admission!

[Zerhackermann]

Originally Posted by cowlitzcoach

I was having a starter issue on my 1994 E-350 with the 7.3L.

I took one look at what it was going to take to access everything and promptly took it to town and had a shop replace it.

Yes it cost a lot more than if I had done it.

But it took them a whole lot less time to do it than if I had tried to do it.

At the end of the day, one has to determine if it is better to pay someone to do something or muddle along and do it yourself.

My time, while not super valuable, is still worth something.

And saving the aggravation is well worth the price of admission!

I hear you. But I had managed to back myself into enough of a corner, that I would have had towing costs added. So it was Hobson's Choice for me

[Mr4btTahoe]

Not sure if anyone has mentioned this or not... but 99% of hard starting issues with the IDI is caused by air intrusion.

I didn't read through the whole thread... but get a return line kit with olive seals. Go to IDIperformance.com. Give him a call and see if his kits contain the olive seals too.

Anyways.. this kit will replace all of the plastic caps, o-rings, and hoses that are on top of the injectors. I'd bet that yours are damp or leaking. 2nd off.. the olive seals which are little rubber seals that are on the ends of the tubing for the fuel supply lines. Unscrew the fittings at the filter head and pump and you'll find a small piece of rubber inside the fitting. These are prone to leaking as well causing the same hard start issue.

Another trick... try parking the bus with the nose slightly downhill. This helps prevent fuel drain back when you have a bit of air intrusion. If it starts easier this way... it'll tell you right off.

Also... VERY important to ONLY use motorcraft or IH glow plugs. Do NOT use any other brands. Bosch, autolite, etc.. are known for swelling and breaking off in the heads or breaking tips and dropping into the cylinders. Not a good time.

To help find air leaks, you can replace some of the rubber fuel line with clear tubing from a hardware store. A small piece before the lift pump.. a small piece off the fuel filter return. This will let you see the air bubbles and which direction they are coming from.

I have a love-hate relationship with the IDI... so if you've got any questions, feel free to ask. You can also visit oilburners.net (more guys on there with light duty trucks then medium duty.. but the engines are the same.)