Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 06-26-2019, 12:52 PM   #41
Bus Nut
 
firebuild's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Waltham MA
Posts: 479
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Lewis
Chassis: Ford E350
Engine: 7.3L Diesel
Rated Cap: 14
I guess what got me confused was the price of the part - the cam sensor I priced out from Rock Auto was 49 bucks. I expected some markup but that's kinda crazy, so I was kinda justifying to by thinking they must be talking about 2 parts. So yeah, I guess that's what they plan to charge me for the $50 part. I don't think I was looking at the wrong part or anything but I guess it's possible.

It seems weird they'd do that, knowing I know my way around a parts catalog (I found the part they couldn't find, after all!). But people are always surprising me.

For example: As I said previously, I got my transmission rebuilt in Iowa. I called the guy at the transmission shop to tell him it's not gonna look like the repair is on him after all, and in the course of the conversation I found out that: A) the shop I had been towed into, who were the ones to bill me for the rebuild, had not even paid him for it, and B) They had marked it up $1000 - he billed them $1700, they charged me $2700. I thought they were good guys and even wrote them a positive review. They made more $$ on the job than the guy who did the actual work. I'm beginning to think there isn't an honest mechanic out there anymore.
firebuild is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-26-2019, 01:13 PM   #42
Bus Geek
 
o1marc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 7,947
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
OUCH. How much KY came with that price?
Cable replacement labor sounds like 3hrs, sure doesn't take that long. Sorry but you got taken.
o1marc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-26-2019, 01:15 PM   #43
Bus Nut
 
firebuild's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Waltham MA
Posts: 479
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Lewis
Chassis: Ford E350
Engine: 7.3L Diesel
Rated Cap: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc View Post
OUCH. How much KY came with that price?
LOL Not grand worth, that's for sure!
firebuild is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-26-2019, 01:17 PM   #44
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 12,000
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
I dont know what the IDI uses the cam sensor for... dashboard tachometer? is the transmission electronic? maybe it uses it for that? this is a mechanical engine..
cadillackid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-26-2019, 01:19 PM   #45
Bus Geek
 
o1marc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 7,947
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
Quote:
Originally Posted by firebuild View Post
LOL Not grand worth, that's for sure!
I was referring to the cable/sensor repair. Unfortunately there are too many repair places that know "most" woman don't know jack about auto repair and therefore get taken. I'm glad I learned a t young age how to do these minor repairs, saves huge amounts of money.
o1marc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-26-2019, 02:13 PM   #46
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 553
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Thomas 4 window w/lift
Chassis: G30
Engine: 350 Chevy
Rated Cap: 10K
So, the question du jour is: Did it fix the over revving/shifting issue?
peteg59 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-26-2019, 02:30 PM   #47
Bus Crazy
 
Sleddgracer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: south east BC, close to the Canadian/US border
Posts: 2,184
Year: 1975
Coachwork: Chevy
Chassis: 8 window
Engine: 454 LS7
Rated Cap: 24,500
Quote:
Originally Posted by firebuild View Post
I guess what got me confused was the price of the part - the cam sensor I priced out from Rock Auto was 49 bucks. I expected some markup but that's kinda crazy, so I was kinda justifying to by thinking they must be talking about 2 parts. So yeah, I guess that's what they plan to charge me for the $50 part. I don't think I was looking at the wrong part or anything but I guess it's possible.

It seems weird they'd do that, knowing I know my way around a parts catalog (I found the part they couldn't find, after all!). But people are always surprising me.

For example: As I said previously, I got my transmission rebuilt in Iowa. I called the guy at the transmission shop to tell him it's not gonna look like the repair is on him after all, and in the course of the conversation I found out that: A) the shop I had been towed into, who were the ones to bill me for the rebuild, had not even paid him for it, and B) They had marked it up $1000 - he billed them $1700, they charged me $2700. I thought they were good guys and even wrote them a positive review. They made more $$ on the job than the guy who did the actual work. I'm beginning to think there isn't an honest mechanic out there anymore.
I don't know how many honest mechanics are out there, I've been ripped off myself and was charged double for a job, but there are some honest ones around - after serving his apprenticeship in a high pressure GM dealership, and working in dealerships for close to 20 years ( as assistant shop foreman in one ) my son decided to open his own shop - he was a bit worried about having to tighten his belt at first being used to a steady paycheque like he was - one of his first customers was a woman driving a relatively new big car - she told my son that she had 2 estimates done, both at about $1200, and she wondered what my son would charge - he quoted $950, but wanted to do his own diagnosis - the woman left her car and caught a taxi - when she got home a few minutes later, there was a call on her answering machine from my son, telling her that her car was fixed and the bill was $49 - 'turned out to be a 'black box' - living in a small community like we do, word of mouth travels fast - the $49 bill was the talk of the 7:am regulars in the restaurant the next morning - he hasn't had what you would call a slow week in the 10+ years he's been open
Sleddgracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-26-2019, 02:36 PM   #48
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 553
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Thomas 4 window w/lift
Chassis: G30
Engine: 350 Chevy
Rated Cap: 10K
^...Great to hear about your son and his business acumen.
He's breathing "Rare Air" for sure...
peteg59 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-26-2019, 03:47 PM   #49
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: West Ohio
Posts: 1,214
Year: 1984
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: International 1753
Engine: 6.9 International
Rated Cap: 65
Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
I dont know what the IDI uses the cam sensor for... dashboard tachometer? is the transmission electronic? maybe it uses it for that? this is a mechanical engine..
It's essentially an rpm sensor for the transmission. If she had a tach, it would use this signal as well. The engine doesn't need it.

My list price for the sensor is 115.99, I think I listed the cost as 60 something.

My diagnostic rate is 95 per hour. So they probably had an hour into changing the sensor. As far as the throttle cable goes. That's anybody's guess. I'd think it would have taken an hour, but being a van chassis, there is no easy way to get to it.

As far as your trans cost. Did the first shop do the removal and replacement with the 2nd doing the rebuid? or did the 2nd shop do all of the work?
Booyah45828 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-27-2019, 02:05 PM   #50
Bus Nut
 
firebuild's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Waltham MA
Posts: 479
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Lewis
Chassis: Ford E350
Engine: 7.3L Diesel
Rated Cap: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by Booyah45828 View Post
It's essentially an rpm sensor for the transmission. If she had a tach, it would use this signal as well. The engine doesn't need it.

My list price for the sensor is 115.99, I think I listed the cost as 60 something.

My diagnostic rate is 95 per hour. So they probably had an hour into changing the sensor. As far as the throttle cable goes. That's anybody's guess. I'd think it would have taken an hour, but being a van chassis, there is no easy way to get to it.

As far as your trans cost. Did the first shop do the removal and replacement with the 2nd doing the rebuid? or did the 2nd shop do all of the work?
The 2nd shop did all of that, I paid the first shop over $600 for their diagnostic etc.

Their hourly is $115 (at the shop that just did the current work I mean).


Quote:
Originally Posted by peteg59 View Post
So, the question du jour is: Did it fix the over revving/shifting issue?
The answer to this is yes, but...

The "but" is that the new throttle cable is super lame. To get to 55 mph, I have to literally floor it. My foot has never been anywhere near the floor before. It feels loose, but there is no easy way to adjust it; there's no adjustment built into the piece. Maybe there's a jerry rig, I don't know, but I have not found one yet.

I did find a thread on oilburners stating that this is true of all the aftermarket cables, saying people should use the OEM one, but it's discontinued and I couldn't find one anywhere. One place looked like they had it but when I tried to purchase it came up out of stock. I hear there is a place in Ohio that has one or two, but if I get one now, I will have to pay again to have the cable installed.

Has anyone else ever experienced anything like this?
firebuild is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-27-2019, 02:30 PM   #51
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 553
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Thomas 4 window w/lift
Chassis: G30
Engine: 350 Chevy
Rated Cap: 10K
Great news on the "over revving" issue. Sounds like you've dodged a bullet by not having to have the repair shop tear into your transmission after all!

On the throttle cable, unfortunately aftermarket parts have a tendency to be close but not exact replacements of OEM parts from time to time.
If you can live with this new throttle response/feel, I guess you'll be okay? It seems as though you might not have full use of your engine power spectrum, if you have to struggle to get it to 55MPH.

If I were you, at some point down the road I would look to the salvage yards to find a good OEM cable, if a NOS cable turns out to be unobtanium. When you found your new cable, did it give you a year range that it fits? Most yards can figure the fitment issue out if you don't have that info, but it sometimes makes it easier if you have that when talking to them. If nothing else it'll give them the feeling that you are not going to be fooled or baffled by BS when it comes to getting what you want/need!

Did the shop give you back your old/damaged cable by chance? It might come in handy when trying to locate a suitable replacement, if you choose to pursue that.
peteg59 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-27-2019, 02:33 PM   #52
Bus Nut
 
firebuild's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Waltham MA
Posts: 479
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Lewis
Chassis: Ford E350
Engine: 7.3L Diesel
Rated Cap: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by peteg59 View Post
Great news on the "over revving" issue. Sounds like you've dodged a bullet by not having to have the repair shop tear into your transmission after all!

On the throttle cable, unfortunately aftermarket parts have a tendency to be close but not exact replacements of OEM parts from time to time.
If you can live with this new throttle response/feel, I guess you'll be okay? It seems as though you might not have full use of your engine power spectrum, if you struggle to get it to 55MPH.

If I were you, at some point down the road I would look to the salvage yards to find a good OEM cable. When you found your new cable, did it give you a year range that it fits? Most yards can figure the fitment issue out if you don't have that info, but it sometimes makes it easier if you have that when talking to them. If nothing else it'll give them the feeling that you are not going to be fooled or baffled by BS when it comes to getting what you want/need!
I believe the range was 1988-1994. I'm really unhappy with it as is; it's fine for getting around town but it's going to be awful on any longer trip. Just decelerating to let someone merge results in a drop down to 45 mph that's really hard to come back up from.
firebuild is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-27-2019, 02:42 PM   #53
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 553
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Thomas 4 window w/lift
Chassis: G30
Engine: 350 Chevy
Rated Cap: 10K
Quote:
Originally Posted by firebuild View Post
I believe the range was 1988-1994. I'm really unhappy with it as is; it's fine for getting around town but it's going to be awful on any longer trip. Just decelerating to let someone merge results in a drop down to 45 mph that's really hard to come back up from.
Definitely not something I'd want to have to get used to. The shop that installed your new cable didn't notice this issue?

Anyhoo, if you can now find a used factory OEM cable at a salvage yard local to you, maybe they could do the swap out for you for less $$ than that last shop you used?
peteg59 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-2019, 08:49 AM   #54
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: West Ohio
Posts: 1,214
Year: 1984
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: International 1753
Engine: 6.9 International
Rated Cap: 65
That's common if the cable is too long. What happens is that when your foot is to the floor, the cable is too long, only giving you 75 percent or so throttle at the injection pump. You'll have to verify that wide open throttle is indeed wide open throttle.

It's pretty simple.

While someone is in the bus, have them push the throttle pedal to the floor, while you're watching the arm on the injection pump. With their foot to the floor, see if you can rotate the arm any farther counter-clockwise.

If you can rotate it more, then the cable is loose, and needs adjusted/jerry rigged or replaced.

If you can't, then you have other problems.
Booyah45828 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-2019, 02:43 PM   #55
Bus Geek
 
EastCoastCB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 18,814
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by firebuild View Post
The 2nd shop did all of that, I paid the first shop over $600 for their diagnostic etc.

Their hourly is $115 (at the shop that just did the current work I mean).




The answer to this is yes, but...

The "but" is that the new throttle cable is super lame. To get to 55 mph, I have to literally floor it. My foot has never been anywhere near the floor before. It feels loose, but there is no easy way to adjust it; there's no adjustment built into the piece. Maybe there's a jerry rig, I don't know, but I have not found one yet.

I did find a thread on oilburners stating that this is true of all the aftermarket cables, saying people should use the OEM one, but it's discontinued and I couldn't find one anywhere. One place looked like they had it but when I tried to purchase it came up out of stock. I hear there is a place in Ohio that has one or two, but if I get one now, I will have to pay again to have the cable installed.

Has anyone else ever experienced anything like this?
Not this specifically but I have the same sort of luck as you when I take vehicles to repair shops.
I now own and drive an 87 chevy truck so that hopefully when something breaks I can fix it myself.

Good luck and keep us posted on how its going. Sure sucks when you can't even pay good money to fix something!
__________________
.
Roll Your Own Build Thread
EastCoastCB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-2019, 04:46 PM   #56
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 12,000
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
that cable should be adjustable.. normally part of the jacket is threaded so it can be screwed in or out to adjust for variances in throttle linkages...
cadillackid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-2019, 06:29 PM   #57
Bus Nut
 
CHEESE_WAGON's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 401
Year: None
Coachwork: None
Chassis: None
Engine: None
Rated Cap: None
Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
that cable should be adjustable.. normally part of the jacket is threaded so it can be screwed in or out to adjust for variances in throttle linkages...
Maybe, but my vote is on the cable being for the wrong application, perhaps for an F-350 pickup with the diesel engine, which with a longer nose and therefore a longer distance from the accelerator to the injection pump, would probably require a longer cable as opposed to the van.

Perhaps idiots at marketing level for the aftermarket part assume the same cable should work for both applications. Or alternately, maybe they do take the same length cable and someone is assuming it needs to be longer for one as opposed to the other.
__________________
"Cheese Wagon" <anomaly.va@gmail.com>

Former owner - 1989 Ford B700 64-pass Blue Bird (Rest In Peace, Cheese Wagon)
CHEESE_WAGON is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-2019, 07:05 PM   #58
Bus Nut
 
CHEESE_WAGON's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 401
Year: None
Coachwork: None
Chassis: None
Engine: None
Rated Cap: None
Here's an interesting tidbit... RockAuto does show two different cables for the diesel 1991 F350 vs the diesel 1991 E350... But interestingly enough, lengths are 42.5" vs 44.5", respectively, showing a longer cable for the E350, which may not be correct. Seems to me that a 2-inch difference would definitely cause this issue. So possibly part numbers have been transposed and created this problem?

RockAuto Part #s...

91 F350 - ATP Y290, Pioneer CA8459 (42.5")
91 E350 - ATP Y289, Pioneer CA8458 (44.5")

Maybe the correct cable is actually the same for both applications, and someone goofed up? I can see a longer cable being needed for F450-F850 commercial trucks, same chassis B-series Ford skoolies are built on.

Interestingly, I can't get an accelerator cable part number for these or a Navistar 3800 with the T444, same engine and basically the same chassis. I'm starting to think the E350 may take the same cable as the F350, and the longer cable is actually intended for the F450-F850 trucks. Food for thought...
CHEESE_WAGON is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-2019, 07:54 PM   #59
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 12,000
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
the 3800 wouldve used the 7.3 IDI (non turbo or optional turbo..).. the T-444E of course is an electronic engine with no accelerator cable.. (1994+)..



I am guessing the accelerator cable would be different on the 3800 with 7.3 IDI as it has no doghouse so the engine sits forward from the pedal further than a van which has a doghouse where the engine sits further back in reference to the driver..



-Christopher
cadillackid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-2019, 08:00 PM   #60
Bus Nut
 
CHEESE_WAGON's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 401
Year: None
Coachwork: None
Chassis: None
Engine: None
Rated Cap: None
Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
the 3800 wouldve used the 7.3 IDI (non turbo or optional turbo..).. the T-444E of course is an electronic engine with no accelerator cable.. (1994+)..
I could swear I have seen International trucks with T444 badges (No 'E'). Was the 7.3 IDI ever called the T444, without the 'E' designation?
CHEESE_WAGON is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:38 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
×