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08-09-2017, 07:42 PM
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#241
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 938
Chassis: GMC or Chevrolet, I hope
Engine: gasser probably
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tootalltechie
Exactly, you will have to remove the brake disk to get at the back side.
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Copy.
Tonight will be study night [emoji2]
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__________________
the more i learn, the less I know what to buy . . .
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08-09-2017, 07:45 PM
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#242
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 543
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YouTube is your friend. A lot of Honda front ends are the same style. A buddy has a Honda civic that I help him with some times.
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08-09-2017, 08:00 PM
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#243
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,830
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
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when I was talking banging, you pound it out from the front of the rotor toward the back of the rotor.. the new stud inserts from the back and pokes out the front.
-Christopher
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08-09-2017, 08:11 PM
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#244
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Traveling
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Midwest
Posts: 2,573
Year: 2003
Coachwork: BlueBird
Chassis: TC2000
Engine: 5.9L Cummins
Rated Cap: '00
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Bummer on the stud.
I replace the entire set when one breaks, usually they break from a big monkey on the air hammer at tire shop or tire rotation (who serviced wheels last?). If one is bad, I've had others go shortly thereafter and they are cheap. Doing 4 is not much harder than 1.
, watch a bunch.
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08-09-2017, 08:30 PM
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#245
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,830
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
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what a pain that is.. that the dust shield blocks the studs.. ive seen it before though.. that particular guys' fix seems like a hack however im sure it will probably work just fine the way he did it.
-Christopher
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08-09-2017, 08:42 PM
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#246
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 938
Chassis: GMC or Chevrolet, I hope
Engine: gasser probably
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid
when I was talking banging, you pound it out from the front of the rotor toward the back of the rotor.. the new stud inserts from the back and pokes out the front.
-Christopher
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Copy that Christopher. I thought u meant something else. I'm a noob so don't assume anything when teaching me. Lol.
Btw, a neighbor mentioned to add a few drops of old motor oil before installing the lug nut. Is that a good idea?
Last tire rotation was at the same place that lost the brake fluid cap... So yeah, doing everything myself from now on.
Here are some pictures I took last minute.
Looks like I'm going to have to remove a few things to get to it.
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__________________
the more i learn, the less I know what to buy . . .
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08-09-2017, 08:52 PM
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#247
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Traveling
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Midwest
Posts: 2,573
Year: 2003
Coachwork: BlueBird
Chassis: TC2000
Engine: 5.9L Cummins
Rated Cap: '00
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There *might* be an opening in that shield somewhere- looks like a notch on top?
Go slow and you will fix this. keep hitting us up for ?'s. Don't put oil on wheel studs, we want them to stay on and it messes with torque values.
To knock 'em out w/ a hammer, I use a 3 lb drilling hammer (small hand sledge), put my rear-end against the fender, bend down so the stud is between your legs and give it a firm tap. Seems to be easier to hit it dead-nuts.
Wait ... that's NOT a bus....
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08-09-2017, 09:39 PM
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#248
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 938
Chassis: GMC or Chevrolet, I hope
Engine: gasser probably
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty
Bummer on the stud.
I replace the entire set when one breaks, usually they break from a big monkey on the air hammer at tire shop or tire rotation (who serviced wheels last?). If one is bad, I've had others go shortly thereafter and they are cheap. Doing 4 is not much harder than 1.
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seems like this other video is more of what i'll have to do.
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the more i learn, the less I know what to buy . . .
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08-09-2017, 10:15 PM
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#249
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Skoolie
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Texas
Posts: 125
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty
He didn't mean calipers, I'm guessing, as that would require bleeding the brake lines of air and that can get tricky w/ ABS- may require tech tool. Not for beginner, change calipers if they leak or are seized.
Prolly meant pads.
Replace rotors as set/axle to keep same thickness, even stopping.
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Sorry, I get carried away. I did mean calipers. But sometimes I forget that what I do, is not always beginner friendly. Haha. I do mean it though. If you get a whole new system, it sucks to have to replace it due to bad calipers.
When I do brakes I must re-set the calipers to make room for new pads. In doing this, I've seen numerous times, in the salty air of South texas, calipers failing right after a brake job. May be different for non corrosive environments that many enjoy, but it's like rebuilding the top half of an engine. But if you leave the same pistons and lower half, and they go out, the expense on the top half will be moot as you must do it again.
Just me being a gear head though, don't mind me. Have fun guys!
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__________________
He who is smart enough to stay out of politics, is burdened by being governed by those that are dumber then him. -"Me"
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08-09-2017, 10:21 PM
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#250
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 938
Chassis: GMC or Chevrolet, I hope
Engine: gasser probably
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlies.Contingency
Sorry, I get carried away. I did mean calipers. But sometimes I forget that what I do, is not always beginner friendly. Haha. I do mean it though. If you get a whole new system, it sucks to have to replace it due to bad calipers.
When I do brakes I must re-set the calipers to make room for new pads. In doing this, I've seen numerous times, in the salty air of South texas, calipers failing right after a brake job. May be different for non corrosive environments that many enjoy, but it's like rebuilding the top half of an engine. But if you leave the same pistons and lower half, and they go out, the expense on the top half will be moot as you must do it again.
Just me being a gear head though, don't mind me. Have fun guys!
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I can see how it makes sense to do multiple jobs at the same time, but for me at this point, one job at the time. No big deal to go back and have to take everything apart to fix something else. More practice [emoji2]
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the more i learn, the less I know what to buy . . .
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08-09-2017, 10:48 PM
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#251
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 938
Chassis: GMC or Chevrolet, I hope
Engine: gasser probably
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tootalltechie
You may need an impact tool to remove the 2 screws. The type is shaped like a screw driver and you hit it with a hammer.
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Can't I add some WD40 and hit it until things loosen up.
Found this video useful.
https://youtu.be/RAsq0To_TK8
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the more i learn, the less I know what to buy . . .
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08-09-2017, 10:57 PM
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#252
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 938
Chassis: GMC or Chevrolet, I hope
Engine: gasser probably
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Seem like there are some variations but the basics are the same.
https://youtu.be/Au_SRabG_64
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__________________
the more i learn, the less I know what to buy . . .
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08-09-2017, 11:15 PM
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#253
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 938
Chassis: GMC or Chevrolet, I hope
Engine: gasser probably
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This guy is good but damn, how many different types of lubes did he use in that video.
I just got to remind myself not to aim for perfection the first time around.
https://youtu.be/lU6OKQxSg8U
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__________________
the more i learn, the less I know what to buy . . .
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08-09-2017, 11:23 PM
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#254
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 938
Chassis: GMC or Chevrolet, I hope
Engine: gasser probably
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Is Freight Harbor tools the cheapest place to buy a breaker bar and sockets set ?
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the more i learn, the less I know what to buy . . .
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08-09-2017, 11:29 PM
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#255
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Skoolie
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Texas
Posts: 125
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oricha1984
Is Freight Harbor tools the cheapest place to buy a breaker bar and sockets set ?
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Pretty much. I like using them. You can get pro tools for Walmart prices. I get a lot of stuff from them.
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__________________
He who is smart enough to stay out of politics, is burdened by being governed by those that are dumber then him. -"Me"
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08-09-2017, 11:43 PM
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#256
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 938
Chassis: GMC or Chevrolet, I hope
Engine: gasser probably
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlies.Contingency
Pretty much. I like using them. You can pro tools for Walmart prices. I get a lot of stuff from them.
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Thanks.
I have Walmart, Lowe's, Home Depot, and Harbor Freight all near me.
I just rather not drive around comparing prices for tools now and for future projects.
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__________________
the more i learn, the less I know what to buy . . .
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08-09-2017, 11:49 PM
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#257
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Skoolie
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Texas
Posts: 125
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Go to lowes or HD when you outfit the interior of a bus. For tools for working on vehicles and you need specialty tools and such, hit up HF. That's my 2 cents.
HD and Lowes can set up up with basics, they have good selection of hand tools. But anything specialty is better from harbor freight. Try finding fuel line tools, AC vacuum pump, AC guages, or other specialty stuff at home improvement stores. I could never find em. So my stuff says harbor freight on it.
If looking at air compressors, welders, and generators. Also check out tractor supply if they exist near you.
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__________________
He who is smart enough to stay out of politics, is burdened by being governed by those that are dumber then him. -"Me"
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08-10-2017, 12:13 AM
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#258
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Traveling
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Midwest
Posts: 2,573
Year: 2003
Coachwork: BlueBird
Chassis: TC2000
Engine: 5.9L Cummins
Rated Cap: '00
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oricha1984
Thanks.
I have Walmart, Lowe's, Home Depot, and Harbor Freight all near me.
I just rather not drive around comparing prices for tools now and for future projects.
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I know Craftsman are China now, but it's tough to beat the 230-odd piece sets for $90ish /delivered on ebay. Love the case for vehicles and on the road.
Last one ! free ship
Craftsman 311 pc Mechanics Tool Set SAE/Metric
Bigger set, $200
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08-10-2017, 05:31 AM
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#259
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oricha1984
Is Freight Harbor tools the cheapest place to buy a breaker bar and sockets set ?
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Yep. most likely.
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08-10-2017, 07:34 AM
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#260
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,830
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
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I used to buy craftsmen because i could beat the living daylights out of them, bust and replace free.. but the prospects are sears will go under in the next couple years so I get HF stuff now. some of my important sizes i have 2 of in case I bust one.. sockets.. 1/2, 9/16, 5/8. 15 MM. I have 2 of because they are the most used..
roger that doing one job at a time. for getting bolts loose I like PB Blaster. put it on the night before and then again before you start.. spray it on the threads as much as possible.. it doesnt do alot of good to spray the head of a bolt.. long ones like brake bolts are prone to rusting and freezing up.. impact is the best way to get them out and least likelihood of breakage.
I also turn the steering wheel to make things more accessible when working on brakes.. the steering turns easy when the front end is in the air ..
-Christopher
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