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Old 05-02-2017, 04:26 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by produster View Post
The easiest way to explain it the engine doesn't work as hard to turn itself over. it also keeps the turbo cooler.

Thus the engine is more efficient, the better gas mileage and the MPH pick up is there.
Tell us more about this wonder oil...

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Old 05-02-2017, 05:14 PM   #22
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I talked to an auctioneer that used Slick 50 as an oil change years ago. He said he was doing an auction with hundreds of cases of Slick 50. The auctioneer had some workers change the oil, transmission fluid (4 spd) and the differential oil in his old truck. That was a '59 F-100 1/2 ton pickup and it got 32 mpg on the highway. I bought that truck from him and it got 24 mpg hauling a cord of firewood. He claimed it was because of the Slick 50 based on when the high gas mileage started.

That's not necessarily a good example because nobody in their right mind would use straight Slick 50. I ran regular oil in that same truck for several years and continued getting the same high gas mileage. Eventually I had the engine rebuilt and it still got the same high gas mileage. No explanation.
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Old 05-02-2017, 05:16 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Kubla View Post
Your 6.50 rear is the reason why you can't go faster, your engine has a 2700 rpm recline (approximately) so you need like a 4.44 rear if you want to go 65 mph
My fuel pincher engine specs read
Idle min. RPM 700
Max no load rpm 3050 (don't know if that includes chassis and body or on a stand)
170hp at 3000rpm.
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Old 05-02-2017, 05:30 PM   #24
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Sorry
Just catching up to kubla from yesterday and just found everything I missed.
For the mystery oil man.
These old 8.2's we are talking about are non turbo so no boost there.
I also have an old 77 ford that I have been debating changing to synthetics in but I hear a lot of debate about upgrading to a newer synthetic oil for older engines and the biggest thing in a lot of the mystery oils is a zinc additive that fills in the voids in the wore out parts like bearings and cylinder walls but also start collecting and filling upthe oil passage and pump strainer and other things.
I assume you have heard some of that also?
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Old 05-02-2017, 05:47 PM   #25
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I'd think a set of 4.44's would be a nice upgrade. Possibly some taller rear tires, if possible.
Definitely doing taller tires and would like 4.44 gears for speed. but am still in a debate in my head if those are the right ones for me?
I will sacrifice some top end speed to be able to tow a trailer with car or 4-down and still be able to do 55-60 while leaving my 8.2 at its factory settings,adding a cooler to my 545.
Maybe my solution is changing the tranny to one with an overdrive and keep my 6.50 rear (with some TLC of course).
For any newbies following please do your research and buy the power train already in the bus that fits your needs cause no matter how much you put into your conversion the power train is what makes it move and the power train combo decides how fast you get there. How much weight you can tow and or carry.
I love my bus. I didn't get any drive time before purchase. All I got was visual.
But buying from a school system that owned the bus since brand new. I did get full maintenance records,manufacturers build sheets and wiring diagrams for the ford chassis and Thomas body.
Good luck
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Old 05-02-2017, 05:58 PM   #26
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going overdirve will be a pricey or an involved adventure on a bus that age.. the OD automatics are electronic, or you can go manual and install a clutch and all to get OD.

-Christopher
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Old 05-02-2017, 06:08 PM   #27
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I love a stick shift and would really love a road ranger tranny.
I can dream can't I?
I will make what I have work enough to make me happy.
For me I don't want to change the governor and kill my engine or tranny in a year of hitting the road to freedom.
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Old 05-02-2017, 06:29 PM   #28
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What do you think you're going to change inside the governor housing then?
Take a few shims out to allow the top speed to be increased
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Old 05-02-2017, 06:43 PM   #29
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I'm not trying to be insulting in any way, but I hope you know what you're doing doing. Changing the governor is a job that a lot of mechanics won't mess with.

Having worked as a mechanic in the past, I was never allowed to change a governor.
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Old 05-02-2017, 07:00 PM   #30
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I'm not trying to be insulting in any way, but I hope you know what you're doing doing. Changing the governor is a job that a lot of mechanics won't mess with.

Having worked as a mechanic in the past, I was never allowed to change a governor.
I was a mechanic before I was an electrician. I may get in there and change my mind, ya never know lol
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Old 05-02-2017, 07:21 PM   #31
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I'd try it too if I knew what I was doing. Governors, like electricity, remain magic to me.
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Old 05-02-2017, 07:25 PM   #32
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The governor speed set by the manufacturer was/is for the longevity of that engine in its max life expectancy with no problems.
Right now my work truck is a 2000 duramax diesel in a chebbywith no tuner or anything and has 400,000, And the only problem is wiring I have a 77 ford and the only problem is the wiring has aged out.
Change your motor from factory settings then you will be out the motor and maybe the tranny?
Which cost as much as your entire platform purchase and build!
Just something to think about?
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Old 05-02-2017, 07:37 PM   #33
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I've never had the chance to take a governor apart. When I was younger I remember there were ways to remove them, but governors seem to have gotten much more integral to the engine in later years.

They are meant to protect us from ourselves, like so many protections that suck the life out of us.
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Old 05-02-2017, 07:41 PM   #34
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I'd try it too if I knew what I was doing. Governors, like electricity, remain magic to me.
Governors will be my next task lol
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Old 05-02-2017, 07:42 PM   #35
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The governor speed set by the manufacturer was/is for the longevity of that engine in its max life expectancy with no problems.
Right now my work truck is a 2000 duramax diesel in a chebbywith no tuner or anything and has 400,000, And the only problem is wiring I have a 77 ford and the only problem is the wiring has aged out.
Change your motor from factory settings then you will be out the motor and maybe the tranny?
Which cost as much as your entire platform purchase and build!
Just something to think about?
I hear ya, I have almost 300k on my '06 5.3 Silverado.

My buddy knows this old timer that does a lot of the bus work for the school corporation around here. If I get in over my head I'm gonna go pay him a visit. Plus he should have extra parts laying around he may trade for a few hours work. I love to barter.
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Old 05-03-2017, 07:41 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jolly Roger View Post
Sorry
Just catching up to kubla from yesterday and just found everything I missed.
For the mystery oil man.
These old 8.2's we are talking about are non turbo so no boost there.
I also have an old 77 ford that I have been debating changing to synthetics in but I hear a lot of debate about upgrading to a newer synthetic oil for older engines and the biggest thing in a lot of the mystery oils is a zinc additive that fills in the voids in the wore out parts like bearings and cylinder walls but also start collecting and filling upthe oil passage and pump strainer and other things.
I assume you have heard some of that also?
For EastcoastCB and Jolly Roger.

Ok, Yes good oils are high in Zinc, I have not heard the zinc fills the scratches or fills the oil passages. what I do know is the Zinc is supposed to help lubricate.


To clarify, I have a turbo version of the 8.2L.

Now the oil I am dealing with is called TriboDyn. You can go to TriboDyn.com to get more details. It has a US Patent, not Patent Pending. It is the first oil to get a Patent in over 30 years.

We use API oil and then add the technology. The key to the oil is the reduction in friction or friction modifiers.

We have seen, decreased oil temps, decreased engine temps, increased fuel mileage, increased power and fills in scratches in bearings, cylinder walls.

Hard to hit all good points of the oil and keep everyone's attention.

Guys, like you I was VERY skeptical when I heard about the oil. I was introduced to the owner through a racing buddy. I was asked to put it in my daily driver, answer, No. Then asked to put it in the Class 1 Baja, again no. Asked to put it in the new 512CID engine for my 73 Duster(tube chassis street car), the answer was not just no but hell no. At this time my 3 of my cars were still out of state as I was in the middle of a move. So I was asked to try it in my very used, more used up riding lawn mower I got for $500. I agreed.

I had 3 acres to mow, it took just over 2 and a quarter gallons of fuel, with a 2 gallon tank I would need to stop and had some really thick grass I called the lettuce patch. I swap the oil and mow the lawn. I noticed the engine was quieter at start up, after some heat was in the motor it ran smoother. I mowed the lawn and usually had to edge the lettuce patch, if I hit it before I used TribDyn it would stall the engine. As I was mowing I was thinking of cars or women and ran right through the lettuce patch. barely pulled the motor down. I finished mowing the lawn with no stops, when I was done I had about a quart of fuel left in the tank.

I was impressed at this point, I called the owner and said, get me 4 quarts of 20w50 for the Baja. I had just put in 4 quarts of Royal Purple oil in it 20 miles prior. Again did the oil change, the engine oil temp ran in the 210-215 range with an extra oil cooler and fan in Arizona and in North Carolina. Put in TriboDyn, got the car warm and the temp wouldn't go over 190 with the fan on unless I was really on it hard, flat out. Then I could get the oil to 210 or so, but once back to normal use the oil dropped back under 190.

From there it is pretty much history, I was sold. I put it in my daily driver, picked up about 15% in fuel mileage, I put it in all of my cars and seen increases in all. It went in the new motor for the Duster and picked up 12hp, this was on an engine dyno. the bus picked up the 2mph and fuel mileage increase. I have one last car to put it in and that one isn't done yet. It is in my parents vehicles and a few of my friends including tow vehicles, daily drivers and racecars.

Sorry about being long winded. But I truly believe in the product and after 2 years of use I have nothing bad to report.

If you guys have questions please ask.

If you are interested in buying some, I am the Master Distributor for North Carolina and the sales rep for Michigan. Please message me here.

Lastly, lets keep this civil and ask questions instead of just being negative.
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Old 05-03-2017, 10:37 AM   #37
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produster; Please don't think of our comments as just being negative. People are actually talking about your oil, which is a win for you in a way. We certainly have sceptics here. Most of us are not exactly wealthy, so normal oil changes are already a significant expense. Risking a bus that takes a financial investment as well as about two years of labor out of our lives is something we're pretty careful about risking. This group does take in new products, but usually that's after one of the group has success with a particular product.

Any chance of a product demonstration? They used to do that with Slick-50. Maybe I missed it, but are you using this oil in your 8.2 detroit diesel? Maybe you could change the oil in CBs bus, if he'll let you. CB brings a lot of useful new products to the table for discussion. What do you say CB? Are you feeling experimental?
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Old 05-03-2017, 10:49 AM   #38
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im up for new products, im using a newer AMSoil coolant now.. ive just been told by more than one person if I put one of these high performance oils in my 150k engine, that im likely to increase the likliehood of oil leaks... granted an engine technically should be tight and not leak.. but things age.. and while I suppose the "correct" thing to do would be to pull the engine and rebuild it when it leaks, I take the easy way out and run Rotella T, in which the engine leaks very minor..(many days I drive I have zero drops on the ground.. other days a few) as i dont want to risk having to rebuild what is otherwise a perfectly good engine.. just because I poured a new oil in that "cleaned" everything up inside..

I think alot are in the same boat.. or similar.. im one of the "lucky" ones that is capable of rebuilding an engine myself... others if they started leaking like crazy would be out of luck..

I only mention this because that seems to be the discussion that always comes up with high performance oils.. as it can and does happen, alas why you might not see a ton of enthusiasm toward a new oil product.

it may not cause my engine to leak any more or could even make it leak less, I have no idea.. I keep pretty good tabs on the internal parameters of the engine vias the computer screen I have.. i would know pretty quickly if my oil and coolant temps dropped... and whether oil pressures were higher or lower...c

-Christopher
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Old 05-03-2017, 11:23 AM   #39
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Originally Posted by tlbeck1985 View Post
Take a few shims out to allow the top speed to be increased
So you're going to pull shims out to go faster, but that's not going to increase rpm?

Yeah, you have no idea what you're doing.

If you remove those shims you essentially increase the max rpm of the engine from 3000, or whatever it is, to some unknown number. You'll find a slight increase in mph by doing that but it is all something that I and most others would highly advise against doing. It's even more dangerous on a detroit, because the levers inside will go over center, causing the thing to over rev or runaway, most likely leading to catastrophic failure. This isn't something you want to f_ck with not knowing anything about it.

I'm thinking that you're confused about the terminology used here. A limiting speed governor isn't a road speed limiter.

When talking about governors, the word speed is in reference to RPM, not vehicle road speed.

Limiting speed governors, like all governors, control the fuel rate of the diesel engine. They are the simplest of governors in that they essentially only control the max rpm(or speed) of the engine, and the idle rpm(or speed). Anything between those two is controlled by your foot.

Diesel engines use 3 main styles of governors: Limiting speed, which is found on most highway diesel engines; Variable speed, which is found on ag equipment, industrial equipment, and certain highway stuff; And isochronous speed, which is found on generators where you need dead on nuts rpm control.

If you're looking for the road speed limiter, you might not have one. They were used in situations like in NC where there is a max speed limit for school busses. It was an add on device, placed in between the throttle pedal and the engine.

Figure out what you have on your bus, do the math to see your theoretical top speed, and then see if there is something you can easily change, like removing a road speed limiter. Otherwise you're stuck changing transmissions or rear gear sets.
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Old 05-03-2017, 11:37 AM   #40
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produster; Please don't think of our comments as just being negative. People are actually talking about your oil, which is a win for you in a way. We certainly have sceptics here. Most of us are not exactly wealthy, so normal oil changes are already a significant expense. Risking a bus that takes a financial investment as well as about two years of labor out of our lives is something we're pretty careful about risking. This group does take in new products, but usually that's after one of the group has success with a particular product.

Any chance of a product demonstration? They used to do that with Slick-50. Maybe I missed it, but are you using this oil in your 8.2 detroit diesel? Maybe you could change the oil in CBs bus, if he'll let you. CB brings a lot of useful new products to the table for discussion. What do you say CB? Are you feeling experimental?
I'll beta test any oil, as long as it meets the basic requirements. I run oil that's $25 a 5 gallon bucket.
I've been to petroleum institute training school. The fancy oil is just marketing. Maybe it has less friction, etc... but that's not gonna buy you ONE SINGLE MPH in a bus.
But I've got two buses that are available for product demo. My 40 footer with DT466 does 62. My shorty with 444E does 75.
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