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Old 10-24-2016, 11:01 AM   #11
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The engine governor which is integral to fuel control, will be located inside the injection pump which on an 8.2 resides in the valley between the two cylinder banks. You won't ever see it because, like I said, it's inside the injection pump.

The governor that transporter should be looking for is a road speed governor, which should be located somewhere on the throttle cable between the injection pump and the pedal.

* Not to be misleading, but 2 cycle detroits, along with a few others, run a unit injector. This style has the pump and injector all in one and the governor would be located elsewhere on the engine, with control rods connecting it to the injector.
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Old 10-26-2016, 05:30 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Booyah45828 View Post
The engine governor which is integral to fuel control, will be located inside the injection pump which on an 8.2 resides in the valley between the two cylinder banks. You won't ever see it because, like I said, it's inside the injection pump.

The governor that transporter should be looking for is a road speed governor, which should be located somewhere on the throttle cable between the injection pump and the pedal.

* Not to be misleading, but 2 cycle detroits, along with a few others, run a unit injector. This style has the pump and injector all in one and the governor would be located elsewhere on the engine, with control rods connecting it to the injector.
8.2 NA
I have two questions?(go figure)
From what I can tell is that my throttle cable goes directly to a fuel block?(it has an electronic fuel solenoid mounted to it) On the front top of my block and connected to a plate on a valve/rod/butterfly type? Also connected to that plate is a cable down to the tranny(545) and two springs to pull back to closed/happy position for idle I assume? The throttle cable does have about 7-threads showing to adjust it but I think that would mess with the idle speed.
1st question? Do I adjust the plate at the rod tighter for more RPM?
2nd question? I just watched a video of a man that added turbo to his natural breathing 8.2 to boost his? but didn't go into a lot of details or everything he had to change or replace? Is that something to look into?
Thanks for any thoughts/ideas good or bad.
I want to do this one time and caddie kid the other day made since when we were talking about rear gears.
I was told when I bought the bus from the old mechanic at the bus barn that if I adjusted the governor's then I needed to change the rear gears or they would burn up and two busses that his church bought one they changed gears the other they didn't and was paying for a rear end? so I have been focused on gear changes but Caddilac kid said in a nut shell/my mind that the gear size does not matter (properly maintained and oil) as long as your engine and tranny can turn them to your required speed. Not trying to put words into anyone's post/mouth?
Still haven't found a tach. So I have to do that before I touch/adjust anything. I was trying to find a plug and play tach. But the only thing I can find for mine gets connected on the outside of the alternator to read RPM and has to be calibrated with a timing light?(how accurate is that?) no electronics to connect to except a test probe in a wire?
Any ideas thoughts good or bad are appreciated
Thank ya
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Old 10-26-2016, 09:42 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Transporter2112 View Post
It is definitely hitting the no load max rpm. The question i have now is: Did the previous owner, Wayne County Schools monkey with the no load max governor. I cannot find the gear ratio of my drive axle so until I get a tachometer I don't know if I'm cruising at 40 mph at 3050 rpm as stated on the valve cover, or if I'm cruising along at 2000 rpm. Either way I am pretty certain that i am running at whatever the max no load rpm is. Any suggestions on tachometers?

Is this Wayne County Schools, you are talking about, is it in North Carolina? I live in Goldsboro,NC, that in Wayne County. I just bought a 1991 Thomas short bus in August 2016. It has a 8.2 engine.
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Old 10-27-2016, 04:07 PM   #14
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Jollyroger, Pictures are worth a thousand words.

If I had to guess. What you're talking about is the adjustment for the cable in order to take out any slop. Have someone sit in the bus and hold the throttle pedal to the floor. If you don't have a road speed governor, then the only way to get more rpm/higher top speed is through changes to the injection pump.

As far as burning up rear gears. It's possible to turn them too fast under too much of a load that you'll have a lube failure. You'll see that occasionally in semi trucks when they try to pull up the mountain in Jellico tn at 80 mph. But I can't make any statements like "taking a 6:34 gear over 60 mph will burn it up" type thing. Certain gear sets will have a max power/max speed spec but you have to know the specific axle in order to even find the literature that will state that.

It's one of those things where you gear the rear end for it's intended usage. My preference for gearing is as follows. For an over the road skoolie I'd choose a rear axle ratio so that you can cruise at 55mph when in direct drive at 80% of the engine's goverened rpm. That usually seems to give about the most desirable characteristics of acceleration and cruising speed. If you need to go faster, get an od or double od trans, or a brownie box.

Alternator tach drives will vary based off of belt slip. They can be both right and wrong depending on the setup. You also might have a threaded hole in the flywheel housing in order for a sensor to read the teeth off the flywheel.
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Old 10-27-2016, 04:18 PM   #15
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I ran my DEV up jellico foot to the floor with an AT545... lol I slowed down.. the radiator fan is blasting.. but I dont shut off the A/C and nothing has ever broken..

I ran up Monteagle the same way..

the onbly thing that was every said to me about short gears.. was that the smaller the pinion gear the less amount of tooth-area contact you have on the ring.. so that too much torque and you can break things... nothing was ever said about speed.. jyst running high torque...
-Christopher
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Old 10-27-2016, 04:30 PM   #16
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Thanks for the reply and info. It looks like the cable adjustment to me also.
I still suck at trying to post pics? But I will add a few of the throttle assembly and engine to my album in a few minutes.
Thanks for the advice.
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Old 10-27-2016, 05:13 PM   #17
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Ok I stuck some pics in my album of my throttle body.
Does the cable from there down to the tranny tell the tranny when to shift?
I still have a blocker plate on my shifter from the school system and have been wanting to remove it to do a little manual shifting cause my tranny shifts through the gears and I am in drive by 25-mph and have to get up to 49 in drive from there so I was thinking I would remove the blocker plate and manual shift to stretch the gears out a little more? Any thoughts on that?
Thanks for any advice.
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Old 10-31-2016, 01:21 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Jolly Roger View Post
Does the cable from there down to the tranny tell the tranny when to shift?
Yes, that is the tv cable. That being out of adjustment will cause early shifts, low line pressure, and the trans to overheat.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jolly Roger View Post
I still have a blocker plate on my shifter from the school system and have been wanting to remove it to do a little manual shifting cause my tranny shifts through the gears and I am in drive by 25-mph and have to get up to 49 in drive from there so I was thinking I would remove the blocker plate and manual shift to stretch the gears out a little more? Any thoughts on that?
Thanks for any advice.
I wouldn't make it a habit doing that. Adjust the tv cable and you shouldn't have to touch it, unless you want to hold a specific gear going up or down hill.
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Old 10-31-2016, 03:37 PM   #19
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misadjusted TV cable makes your shifts too early also... and low line pressure not only overheats transmissions, if you have enough torque behind it then you slip clutches and damage things
-Christopher
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Old 10-31-2016, 03:56 PM   #20
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I don't have a tach yet but my 545 is in 4/D around 25mph and I get to 45mph from there?
We shift from 1-2 at 10mph 2-3 around 17-18mph.
I think the lower gear shift points are to close together?
I am in drive/4 before I really even get going good?
Do I adjust the cable in or out for stretching the shift points?
Please look in my album at the pics I just added.
With nothing governing the throttle cable does that Meen I have an engine speed governor only? It is a fuel pincher? It runs like a well oiled sowing machine and it sounds like it is doing what it can.
But I wanted to push it a little more to see what it felt and sounded like? I have no feel of anything pulling or throttling power? When I know I am hitting a strait stretch I have a stick for cruise control and the engine doesn't change tune from flat lands to mild hills or down hill? It's steady and the actual speed is all that changes. Normal 45mph up my worst hill 43mph and downhill strolling 49mph.
Would like to do 55?
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