Re: No start - Detroit Diesel 6.2L non turbo HELP!
Being as the 6.2 was in pickups since 1982 I think they beat the Cummins by a bit. Dodge, in 1978-79 had the Mitsubishi 6DR-50A available in full-size pickups. It's about 4-liters, 100hp and 160ft#. That's the first I guess, unless you count the Scout.
The 6.2 gets a bad rap that it doesn't deserve. It's a high-compression, indirect injection motor. It was designed to take up the same space as a 454 and deliver great fuel economy with an acceptable amount of power. It was an expensive option, and the turbocharger would have added a lot more to the price. This is being designed while that stupid Mustang II and the Pinto are still on the roads. You consider that the 6.5 is still being built brand new by GEP as the Optimizer 6500, 205hp 440ft# turbocharged, this motor has been in manufacture for 28 years. There have been changes, but the Model T, which was in production for only 19 years, had 24 engine block changes and 20 cylinder head changes.
A 6.2/6.5 suffers from the same thing Ford IDI engine suffer from--the DB2 injection pump. It's good for 250hp max and 450ft#. You need a turbo to get there, of course. Aftermarket pumps are not too expensive, but you need low-compression pistons. They have been available in the recent past. And some blocks may not be up to it.
Personally, I can't stand a naturally aspirated diesel.There's no power, it's loud and it runs hot. I have a Banks turbo on mine. I've had it for 60,000 miles just about, daily driver and tows things like a skidsteer, small backhoe and a little bulldozer. I have a Gear Vendors splitter and its a great truck. It never runs out of power, it gets too close to the 1,100 EGT limit and you back off. I'm not a hotrod guy so if you are into squirting black smoke into the sky, this isn't your engine. With low compression psitons and a big turbo these can make 300hp, 600ft# though. You might want a new engine block though. GM didn't envision that much power I don't think.
By the way, that DB2 pump is self bleeding. You don't need to crack the injector lines. That hose coming out of the pump cover takes air back to the fuel tank. What you need, for the future, is to install an electric boost pump from a later 6.2/6.5. At the parts counter ask for a lift pump for a 1990 1500, for example. You can then bypass the mechanical lift pump (if you install a turbo the lift pump comes out and a plate with a fitting to drain the lube oil from the turbo goes there. You can find that plate, or use the block-off plate from a later model truck) and if you run it out of fuel, just turn the key on for a bit to purge the pump. it still takes some cranking or course, because each injection is small, but keep your foot to the floor and it will soon start.
Another thing I've found is that the aluminum casting for the fuel filter/seperator can get air leaks in it that you can't find. And also the fuel heater in there is a pain in the ass to keep functioning. You buy a Racor 245 with a fuel heater built in and throw out the Standyne filter. I have an old body truck and the 245 fits on the bolt holes where the original fit. If you have a filter on the manifold, I doubt it will. But it can go anywhere.
Another thing, the mushrooming injector thing is not a problem unless you have a military vehcile with a 24V system and a 6.2. The starter is 24V, but the glowplugs are 12V. If you find a way to hit the glowplugs with 24V, supposedly they will mushroom and you can't get them out without pulling the heads. I think cranking the engine with the glowplug light lit on the dash may give 24V to them. It's not a worry though. And I really recommend Optima redtops. These high compression motors are a bitch to turn over fast enough. I was using the Exide yellow top truck batteries from Wal-Mart--I was like a parade turning them in for credit. I've had these red Optimas for 6 years and they are still great.