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Old 03-23-2009, 10:55 PM   #1
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Please include your phone number. Maybe I can guide ya to make your engine run. Frank in Idaho
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Old 03-23-2009, 11:25 PM   #2
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Re: No start - Detroit Diesel 6.2L non turbo HELP!

so you have fuel to the engine? pul out a glow plug get it wet with diesel and turn the key see if it smokes the fuel and gets hot. these things are famous for injector pump problems dont get that starter too hot they are xpensive-its fuel and aaaaaair-thats it
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Old 03-24-2009, 09:05 PM   #3
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Re: No start - Detroit Diesel 6.2L non turbo HELP!

for any diesel cranking speed is absolutely essential whether a weak starter or poor/dirty/corroded connections if the motor is turning over slowly that is the first thing you need to fix, time for glow plugs sounds short but is dependent upon temp, and I don't know how cold it is there, but get it spinning properly first.
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Old 04-08-2009, 12:38 AM   #4
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Re: No start - Detroit Diesel 6.2L non turbo HELP!

Quote:
Originally Posted by CHEESE_WAGON
Found a brand-new high-torque gear-reduction design, $130 on eBay including shipping if anyone needs one for a 6.2.... I am not sure if the 8.2 Detroit engine uses the same starter?
I doubt it very much the 8.2 is a very different engine than the 6.2
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Old 04-11-2009, 01:03 AM   #5
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Re: No start - Detroit Diesel 6.2L non turbo HELP!

I'm not sure, but I don't think you want to use ether / starting fluid on a motor with glow plugs. The plugs may pre-ignite the fluid (which is mixed with the incoming air, not injected at the precise moment to combust as diesel is), causing bad things to happen.....
I think there are Cummins engines with "heater grids" which pre-warm the air that will also make ether go "Boom"
I tried this once on my Ford 7.3 pickup; made a mess out of the air filter housing. That was back in my younger days, otherwise would have made another mess!!
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Old 04-11-2009, 12:17 PM   #6
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Starting fluid good product

After many posts of bad things about using any starting aid, my view.... I love starting fluid. I use the product to start about every type of engine. This stuff works great with or without glow plugs. If any engine is turning, any amount of fluid can be sprayed into the air intake. Any engine that is running can helped with start fluid. Spraying fluid into a engine that is not turning can be trouble, depending on the amount of fluid sprayed. I have a Ford 7.3 the the glow plug controller died a couple years ago. Every first start in the morning is done with start fluid. In the summer months, only the first start requires a squirt. I have a starter push button switch under my hood to spin the engine. My Int/blue bird bus is starter the same method. The starters last a very long time as also do the batteries. The engine turn about 15 times a quick squirt and the engine is running. My other bus and old Crown with a 743 is started at the engine with a factory starter button. Just grinding the starter is not good for any parts. Trying to start a cold diesel with low batteries is very destructive. It takes just a few minutes to check battery voltage. Ok, yep, I have a digital volt meter in a good place. After the main switch is closed, the batteries voltage is known. Frank
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Old 04-23-2009, 10:00 PM   #7
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Re: No start - Detroit Diesel 6.2L non turbo HELP!

crack all of the injector lines at the injectors and crank as you get fuel at the injectors tighten the lines up and the engine should start.
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Old 04-26-2009, 11:02 PM   #8
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Re: No start - Detroit Diesel 6.2L non turbo HELP!

for many years gm used the same 2 bolts into the bottom of the block starter mount, the starters were different depending on engine size and compression, just because it fits doesn't make it the right starter.
IIRC, the 6.2l has wide valvecovers that look more like a big block chevy.
the engine should try to fire/start if you have 4 injecer lines bled out, tighten them up at both ends and continue the crank &bleed proceedure on the rest of the lines tightening them as they get fuel at the injecters

do you get any smoke out of the exhaust when you crank the engine?

is the fuel solinoin working properly and allowing fuel into the injection pump when the key is on?

the governor should take the pump to full thottle internally when the engine is not running
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Old 04-27-2009, 08:19 PM   #9
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Re: No start - Detroit Diesel 6.2L non turbo HELP!

Quote:
I have heard about certain military-grade Chevy trucks having an option for a 24V starting system along with the standard 12V electrical system. I am beginning to wonder if someone tried to convert this motorhome to a 24V system, screwed it up, and now I'm cleaning up the mess.
FWIW, We had 4 surplus "CUCV" Chevy pickups given to the State. CUCV's were either pickups or full-sized Blazers.

The 24-volt system used two 12-volt batteries in series, and two special 12-volt alternators, one for each battery. The alternator negative appears on a terminal isolated from the case, so one alternator can make +0 to +14 volts, while the other makes +12 to +28. Except for starting, the whole truck (military plug-ins excepted) runs on 12 volts from the first battery and alternator. There is a 24-volt starter, and I think the solenoid coil on the starter is also 24 volts with a control relay under the dash connected to the key.

The 12-volt glow plugs are fed 24 volts through the control solenoid and a huge dropping resistor on the firewall. I envision this as a battlefield escape feature, like making every ignition key the same. If all eight glow plugs are good, they each get 12 volts. If four burn out, the load on the resistor is less and the other four get 16 volts. If you are down to two glow plugs, they each get 19.2 volts. The last surviving plug gets hit with 21.3 volts.
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Old 04-29-2009, 06:03 PM   #10
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Re: No start - Detroit Diesel 6.2L non turbo HELP!

Quote:
Is anyone familiar enough with the 6.2 that they might know how to hot wire the glow plug controller?
My only experience is with the military surplus CUCV pickup installations. I had starter problems on one of the trucks and an alternator problem on another, but I never had to work on glow plugs. I did scope out all the under-hood wiring, though.

Whatever the brains of the controller was, the control output fed an under-hood solenoid, like a Ford starter or a Skoolie accessory feed solenoid. I remember it cycled about 3 seconds on, 3 seconds off until the controller decided the engine didn't need any more.

I had also looked up some information posted by the military vehicle buffs at http://www.steelsoldiers.com. I recall reading that the Chevy glow plugs burned out fairly easy, and some of the owners had installed Wellman 070 aftermarket (?) plugs. One source they list for the replacements was http://www.parramore.com.

To hot wire the glow plugs, I'd run the solenoid coil to a push button, and count to no more than 5 for each press or release. Or, get a Cole-Hersee battery disconnect switch, and run the heavy wires to the dash. Much simpler, but more of a fire hazard.

I just looked back at Steel Soldiers, and many of the members had bypassed the controller. Some of them leave the controller board in place, because they say the "Wait" light works normally whether it's operating a working solenoid or not. FWIW, one of the posters stated the rule of thumb when he was in the service was that after 7 seconds of bypass power you tear down the engine to remove broken pieces of glow plug.
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