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Old 06-02-2015, 11:01 PM   #31
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Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Statesville, North Carolina
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Year: 1993
Chassis: Thomas
Engine: International Navistar DT360
Rated Cap: 60
I bought Kubla's used rear end and helped my dad install it. Very very simple if you install the whole assembly and not just the gears. It took us maybe three hours. If you have a floor jack (we used a motorcycle jack which made it even easier), a rachet set, and a pneumatic wrench, you can do it easily on your own without paying a mechanic. An overhead hoist makes the job much easier too, since it weighs probably 250 lbs. You do want to make sure it's the whole "hog's head." I'm sure it's much more difficult to install just the gears. Thanks, Kubla!

My old one's for sale now if anyone needs a Spicer N-190 with a 6.11 ratio.
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Old 06-03-2015, 01:10 AM   #32
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Stony Plain Alberta Canada
Posts: 2,937
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: 190hp 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirtdoctor View Post
Find a TRUCK GEAR shop- give them the ratios and let them know what you are aiming for. These guys know their stuff and can order the ring and pinion sets- Do not go to a junk yard- There are so many risks in getting someone elses gear set- new bearings and ring and pinion to fit your unit. That is the way to do it right- a gear shop will set the lash and set the bearings to perfection. Its too big a issue to shade tree it.
Jack Google RIGHTGEAR.com
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Originally Posted by Dirtdoctor View Post
Go to a local truck repair (semi-Truck) shop and ask who they recommend for gear work.
The place that does transmissions will do the gear swap too. Even a dealer will do the work and guarantee it. I re geared a truck and it made all the difference in the world.
Jack
But do some homework- ask a local trucker where they would go. Most guys with dump trucks have a good shop they take their trucks too.

No thanks, way too high of cost for no real gain.

We are not talking about setting up gears ourselves. We are swapping entire third members with the gears already set up and running fine.

Junk yards here are full of them from every manufacture. All at a fraction of the cost of new parts, and a 10th of the cost of a shop setting up gears from scratch.

You sound like your trying to advertize the company in the website you posted. ??

Nat
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Old 06-03-2015, 02:06 PM   #33
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Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
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Year: 1997
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: B3800 Short bus
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Originally Posted by Booyah45828 View Post
I don't know how to link excel documents to a page. I don't think photobucket will do that either. I guess I could email it to you if you really want it. That link from hvbuzz looks pretty good.
Here's the spreadsheet, courtesy of Booyah45828:
bus gearing.xlsx

Dropbox will ask you to sign up when you click the download button. You don't have to. There is a link at the bottom of the sign up window that reads, 'No thanks, continue to download'.
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Old 06-06-2015, 10:52 PM   #34
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Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
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Year: 2000
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: International
Engine: TE 444
Rated Cap: 12
Finally got my bus back from the mechanic that put it in, runs fine, need to get the computer updated so the speedo reads right, now I need to do the tranny swap and put the Allison MT643 in
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Old 06-08-2015, 09:54 PM   #35
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 332
Year: 1995
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: International
Engine: 466DT
Rated Cap: 65
I swapped out my third member over a month ago to 4:10's. Best money spent to date on the bus. I bought a used third from Vanderhaags. Like said before, you can get a warranty from most places like that. Vanderhaags also have their own service department. I did the swap my self, because its not hard if you have a decent transmission jack. I too have to completely disagree with dirtdoctor. Swapping third members makes more since then a ring gear swap. In Dana type axles you are stuck with a ring gear swap, but these are no Dana axles.
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Old 06-16-2015, 07:43 AM   #36
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Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Montana
Posts: 65
Year: 1990
Coachwork: happy camper RV repair
Chassis: international
Engine: 360 international
Rated Cap: 66 passenger
The best of both worlds is to go over drive on the trans and keep the lower ratio rear, this will get you the lower gearing to pull mountains and the denefit of higher gears when the engine can pull them, one thing to consider is does your engine have the horsepower to pull taller gears? As in my case I have a DT 360 with 190 horse have a 5.11 rear and at545 my engine simply wouldn't pull taller gears. It will run out of governor around 63 and will get 7 mpg , before I built my conversion the same bus got 14 mpg. Most of the decrease is because I went up four feet on the roof so now the engine has to move more air than a barn door in a thyphoon . I can live with all the numbers for now mostly because to change it all is costly.
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Old 06-16-2015, 07:52 AM   #37
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Florida
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Year: 1988
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: I.H.
Engine: DT360
aye carumba! 4' raise?! Is it front engine or rear? I picture and icecream sandwich on its edge. No offense. Mine is front and no raise. I don't want to go crazy with the gearing, just a little better.
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Old 06-16-2015, 08:12 AM   #38
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 12,153
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Ward/AmTran
Chassis: International
Engine: dt466
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rvingoffgrid View Post
The best of both worlds is to go over drive on the trans and keep the lower ratio rear, this will get you the lower gearing to pull mountains and the denefit of higher gears when the engine can pull them, one thing to consider is does your engine have the horsepower to pull taller gears? As in my case I have a DT 360 with 190 horse have a 5.11 rear and at545 my engine simply wouldn't pull taller gears. It will run out of governor around 63 and will get 7 mpg , before I built my conversion the same bus got 14 mpg. Most of the decrease is because I went up four feet on the roof so now the engine has to move more air than a barn door in a thyphoon . I can live with all the numbers for now mostly because to change it all is costly.
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Old 06-16-2015, 11:19 AM   #39
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: West Ohio
Posts: 626
Year: 1984
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: International 1753
Engine: 6.9 International
Rated Cap: 65
Quote:
Originally Posted by rvingoffgrid View Post
The best of both worlds is to go over drive on the trans and keep the lower ratio rear, this will get you the lower gearing to pull mountains and the denefit of higher gears when the engine can pull them, one thing to consider is does your engine have the horsepower to pull taller gears? As in my case I have a DT 360 with 190 horse have a 5.11 rear and at545 my engine simply wouldn't pull taller gears. It will run out of governor around 63 and will get 7 mpg , before I built my conversion the same bus got 14 mpg. Most of the decrease is because I went up four feet on the roof so now the engine has to move more air than a barn door in a thyphoon . I can live with all the numbers for now mostly because to change it all is costly.
You'd be surprised what 190 horse can move. I've got around that and on flat ground can get to 70 in my conventional nosed bus. Granted, it doesn't get there in an instant but it will get there. I'd say your problem is that you're trying to push a "barn door in a thyphoon" lol. That's the first I've heard of that one.
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Old 06-16-2015, 02:23 PM   #40
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Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 10
Gee Nat, the company I referred folks to is called a referral. I've had them do all my gear work on my fleet of dump trucks for over 24 years. They are a solid honest company.

Someone asked - I just tossed my .02 in
Jack
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