Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad_SwiftFur
The firs thing to do is have *ALL* the batteries checked. And matched. One dead battery will drain good ones as they try to "charge" the weak one. One of those "weakest link" things. Matching is similar to making sure all the links are the same strength.
Once the batteries are sorted, you need to see if something - anything is draining them while parked. Any light on? Any relay stuck on? Any alarm active? (This can be a very tricky process). Remove fuses one-by-one until you find the offending circuit (I'd replace 'em as you go, otherwise you could get 'em all mixed up).
Once you're done with that, have the alternator and charging circuit checked. The way I see it, the factory put certain wires in certain places for a reason; they don't just do it for nothing. Only leave a wire disconnected if you *KNOW* what it's for (and not just because some trucker told you to; though that could be a way for at least getting home). If a connected wire is getting hot, there's a reason and it needs to be diagnosed and corrected.
I'm not fully understanding which wire you're leaving disconnected. I'm also a little unclear which cable you're disconnecting when you refer to the voltage readings. Is this while the engine is running?
You should be running at least 13 volts on the road - and no more than about 15. You may have a somewhat lower reading right after starting up (as I do) but it should come up to 13 or so within a minute or two. Some alternators need a minimum RPM before they begin charging (this is to reduce mechanical load on the engine/starter while cranking), others are happy to generate right away. Give the engine a quick rev after startup if needed to start charging the batteries.
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Let me also suggest investing in a main power disconnect switch...
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