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Old 08-18-2016, 09:31 PM   #1
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Common Problems with DT466E

Hello, I just purchased a 2000 international with a DT466e 7.6l C195 with 68k on the odometer. I believe this millage is correct as the bus came from the Philadelphia school district. On my journey home (about 35 miles) I observed 2 problems. 1 the engine has no balls, it is gutless it slowed down to 25 mph going over the bridge. 2 It was overheating if I kept it up to highway speeds 55 - 60 mph. I let off the pedal once it started getting hot and was able to keep the overheating under control letting off the pedal and slowing down. I've torn into the engine and found 2 problems so far. 1 there is a gash in the lower Turbo air line going into the intercooler, that appears to have been cause by the fan. 2 The radiator and engine are guck'd up with road grime and oil. The gash in the turbo accounts for the engine being gutless, and the clogged up radiator would make it run hot. My question is are there any other common problems with this engine. I am willing to replace the sensors that are problem children in hopes that there is less of chance for an on the road repair. I already have plans on a complete fluid change and drained the nasty coolant already.

If anyone has more information then I do
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Old 08-18-2016, 11:16 PM   #2
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The DT466 engines are generally pretty good engines, should have more than plenty of oomph once you sort the turbo boost issue.

As for the goo in the radiator, that's not so easy. A thorough flush is likely to help for the short term, but oil in the radiator is not normal. You'll probably want to track down how it got there (which may have been fixed prior to your getting it) and fix it if it hasn't already. Coolant on the oil is a known problem with this engine, which (as often as not) is a result of cylinder liner seals failing with age and corrosion pitting (a rebuilt would be in order).
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Old 08-19-2016, 11:27 AM   #3
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Is the oil on the outside of the radiator in the fins? Geez.. how does that happen? Is there any sign of a punctured oil line that was squirting?
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Old 08-19-2016, 12:01 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jazty View Post
Is the oil on the outside of the radiator in the fins? Geez.. how does that happen? Is there any sign of a punctured oil line that was squirting?
I'm thinking the original poster means the oil is mixed with the coolant. That was what I was thinking when I posted my reply.

If it's true the oil is *not* mixed with the coolant and is simply obstructing the radiator fins, that can be remedied with a pressure washer from behind (being very careful not to bend the fins). The oil could have come from anywhere in this case, but a leak should be fairly easy to track down.
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Old 08-19-2016, 01:35 PM   #5
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sounds to me like the radiator fins are clogged.. and if you have an oil-based Air actuated fan clutch that woulkd account for oil being all over the radiator... if that goes then oil will be sprayed both directions by the blades... ...

it could also account for part of the over-heating issue if the fan never fully engages...

philly runs their busses hard, esp the downtown districts...

fix the turbo tube and change the oil, clean the fins.. but when you were running hot you shouldve heard a loud roar from the engine area meanign the fan weas fully engaged.. if you didnt, then the fan engagement mechanism needs checked..

runninf a DT-466 up over 220 is not a good thing... you can easily end up with your coolant in the oil if that happens... be careful with that...

-Christopher
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Old 08-19-2016, 01:38 PM   #6
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also be sure to cange the coolant filter / filters.. flush the heaters as well... and then you need SCA-equipped coolant or add SCA t othe coolant when you put it back togeter..

you can also get coolant filter that has a slow release SCA to help maintain levels of SCA in the coolant as time goes on..

-Christopher
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Old 08-19-2016, 11:01 PM   #7
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Thank u for ur replys

The oil is on the outside of the radiator and on the fan itself. I didn't hear the roar of the fan that everyone is describing to me. So looks like I'll have to double check on that, and possibly replace same. The clutch looks like an older style clutch on a ford truck. How can I tell if is an oil based air actuated clutch? I didn't see any thing that looked like oil in the coolant, and believe that there aren't any problem with the sleeve seals (hopeing)... I'll know for sure when I complete the oil change. Plan on pulling the radiator so it can be cleaned better as well as get the grime off the front of the engine, then I can inspect to see if the front cover gasket Is leaking, which I believe it is.

Chris
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Old 08-19-2016, 11:46 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pts.of.authty View Post
The oil is on the outside of the radiator and on the fan itself. I didn't hear the roar of the fan that everyone is describing to me. So looks like I'll have to double check on that, and possibly replace same. The clutch looks like an older style clutch on a ford truck. How can I tell if is an oil based air actuated clutch? I didn't see any thing that looked like oil in the coolant, and believe that there aren't any problem with the sleeve seals (hopeing)... I'll know for sure when I complete the oil change. Plan on pulling the radiator so it can be cleaned better as well as get the grime off the front of the engine, then I can inspect to see if the front cover gasket Is leaking, which I believe it is.

Chris
So no (visible) oil in coolant? Good. And no visible coolant in oil (it will be a milky-grey color if there's much)? Even better. Doing an oil analysis when you do the oil change would be a good idea (I think it costs like $20 or so). You may find pulling the radiator a big challenge, as they are large and rather heavy, and you'll have 10+ gallons of coolant to do something with. I wouldn't bother, unless it actually needs to be replaced. A good pressure washing will work wonders.

Not sure if you have an air-actuated fan clutch (you won't if there's no air system) or a hydraulic one. Seems these are relatively common failures on the forum. When the engine reaches ~200 degrees, the fan should be fully engaged, the "roar" is the fan pulling a lot of air through the radiator. For an air based setup, it's usually a quick "hiss" of air as it engages, sometimes a quick belt squeal or "chirp" and then maximum fan engagement. Hydraulic setups typically have a more gradual engagement as the air temp rises, and with age, the hydraulics may leak (as yours seems to have done), necessitating replacement. I'd do this, and clean the engine before getting into front cover gasket replacement (which may or may not be needed).
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