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Old 08-07-2015, 08:17 PM   #21
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Yep, that's exactly what we're looking at doing. Ain't payin' no mechanic! Right now she's in the hangar and we're about to pull the oil pan and see what we can see. Then pulling the head and hoping that it's either the oil cooler, injector cups, or O-rings. If it's not those then looks like we'll be doing a complete rebuild.

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Old 08-07-2015, 11:00 PM   #22
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Pulled the oil pan. It was entirely chocolate milk. We cleaned everything off and we're letting it drip overnight to see if we can spot where any pure red coolant drips might be originating from. After that we'll go more in depth.
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A gal, a guy, three cats, two dogs, one rabbit, and one goat, traveling the country together.
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Old 08-08-2015, 08:55 AM   #23
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Given the overheating you experienced, there is a good chance it is the head gasket but there are other ways to get an engine to mix water and oil. Best of luck with it.
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Old 08-08-2015, 09:35 AM   #24
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Pullin' for ya!!
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Old 08-08-2015, 01:20 PM   #25
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Let it drip all night and couldn't tell what was going on, so we drained the coolant and replaced it with water. Sure enough, we could see water dripping out of the fourth cylinder from the front at about a drop or two per 5 seconds. Gonna take out that injector and have a look-see. We haven't turned the pistons at all, though, so it could get worse or come from more than one cylinder once we do. What are the odds that if one is messed up that more are?
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Old 08-09-2015, 01:53 PM   #26
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(Reposting from my build thread)

Turns out it was the O-rings on the cylinder sleeves. Dan and my dad and myself pulled the head and pistons and a couple sleeves so far. Gaskets were fine (although still need to be replaced) and the pistons and sleeves looked like new. We're thinking that it was previously overhauled because they look so good. Apparently when they put the pistons in they sheared or otherwise damaged the top of the three O-rings on each cylinder. The middle ring on one was busted completely, and the other one is solid. It seems that the engine must have been overheating frequently to turn the rubber into plastic. Bearings look fine. Injector cups are fine. Injector nozzles are very dirty, so we'll have them cleaned and tested tomorrow. Maybe that's where our loss of power is from.

So it looks like (fingers crossed that the other four cylinders are good) we'll just have to buy a top gasket set and O-rings!
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Old 08-09-2015, 04:02 PM   #27
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I KNEW you would take it HEAD ON.
Kudos for ignoring the negative and rolling up your sleeves.
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Old 08-09-2015, 07:12 PM   #28
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It really wasn't that hard. I can see why mechanics make big bucks but I can't see any reason why a regular joe with the right tools wouldn't be able to do it. Especially with Youtube videos! That's how I learned to change my Honda's radiator fan. Mechanic said $500. I did it for $62. Also learned how to french braid my own hair and how to crochet and how to skin and tan animal hides from Youtube. And how to remove a skunk's scent glands. Lotsa useful info on these here internets.
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Old 08-09-2015, 07:29 PM   #29
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Did you pull the sleeve and the piston out together as
one piece so the rings remain in the same orientation
as they were run. Otherwise you should replace the
rings so they can break in properly. I also never put
old bearings back once I have unseated them from the
bearing caps as they can change position ever so
slightly and accelerate wear and early demise.
Bearings are relative cheap so why take a chance.
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Old 08-10-2015, 05:51 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragonpop View Post
Did you pull the sleeve and the piston out together as
one piece so the rings remain in the same orientation
as they were run. Otherwise you should replace the
rings so they can break in properly. I also never put
old bearings back once I have unseated them from the
bearing caps as they can change position ever so
slightly and accelerate wear and early demise.
Bearings are relative cheap so why take a chance.
those are myths. the rings rotate. never replace rings only, always create a new crosshatch for new rings to wear----this is the break-in that occurs within the first minute after startup. note: some cylinders are not to be honed, check with manufacturer.

inspection and measure of crank and bearings will dictate what is required there, but the real reason to replace bearings in this engine is because of the coolant contamination.
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Old 08-10-2015, 08:18 AM   #31
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Hey! If you're this far in, why not just buy a rebuild kit and get new pistons, liners, bearings, and gaskets? They sell it all as a package. Then you'd have a new motor!
It is more expensive, but so nice to have a new, fresh motor ready for another 250k!
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Old 08-10-2015, 11:47 AM   #32
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We're gonna look at the bearings real good once they're clean but so far there doesn't seem to be any damage to them. Which further supports the theory that it was recently overhauled. The cylinder sleeves still have the original hone marks, and the pistons look brand new.

charles, I'd love to redo it all but when there's a difference of more than $800 and everything in there besides the O-rings looks new, we're just gonna leave it alone. This was going to pretty much break the bank for us and we got super lucky that it was the O-rings. (Although like I said we have yet to pull the four other sleeves.)

We were supposed to leave a long time ago for full-timing. The longer we stay here, the more we watch all of our savings go down the drain.
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Old 08-10-2015, 12:25 PM   #33
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Well by all means, get out on tha road! At least now you know and are probably comfortable with the job if you ever have to do it again! And make sure you use the good coolant.

I only use the CAT (very expensive but will outlast my conversion) coolant in my 466 since I had pitted liner ruin my last buses engine. Godspeed!
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Old 08-10-2015, 12:37 PM   #34
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We got heavy duty sca coolant from O'Reilly's. I can't wait to get goin'. Still have to plumb in the grey and black and fresh tanks, install the passenger front seat, and build the goat pen in the back. Then we should be good to go!!
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Old 08-10-2015, 08:20 PM   #35
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Every single top O ring looked like the second picture. All the rest were solid and many were broken.
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Old 08-12-2015, 07:19 AM   #36
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Consider the 4th ring You were concerned about loss of power, you got a new turbo, you are there anyway, it was there for a reason. I think it was just another oil ring so getting a match should be easy.
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Old 08-12-2015, 01:33 PM   #37
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Everything I've looked at, no matter who sells it, only includes 3 O rings. I'd be scared to stick anything in there that wasn't designed to go in there.
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Old 08-18-2015, 12:43 PM   #38
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(I posted this in a thread by itself to let the general skoolie population know.)

I found a company online that had a parts list with no prices. I called for a quote and they said they were wholesale and generally only sold to distributors. But they said they would make an exception for me.

I'm not going to name the company here because they were so nice and helped me out and I don't want to take advantage of that and swamp them with personal orders. BUT if you can locate a wholesaler and contact them, they may work with you.

I ordered
3 cylinder sleeves with o-rings, 10 individual o rings, a head gasket set, 6 connecting rod bearings, 6 piston ring sets, 1 main bearing set, and an oil pan gasket for $353.

The same order at agkits.com would have cost $800 and they don't carry the piston ring sets for my engine, which would have been another $120.
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