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Old 05-20-2019, 02:43 PM   #1
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Dt466 cracked exhauat manifold

I found a pretty big crack is it worth tryinf to grind out and weld for 0$ or should i source a new used one? will the dt466e manifold be the same? I want a bigger turbo what would be the cheapest yard one to get?
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Old 05-20-2019, 03:08 PM   #2
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Old 05-20-2019, 03:30 PM   #3
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Far from being a metallurgical expert here, but I thought cast iron can't be welded...
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Old 05-20-2019, 03:39 PM   #4
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Far from being a metallurgical expert here, but I thought cast iron can't be welded...
it can be welded using the proper procedures - pre-heating the cast being one of them
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Old 05-20-2019, 04:20 PM   #5
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Depends on the quality of the iron. Cast iron is a somewhat of a relative term.

Your better cast alloys can be welded with a nickel rod($$).

You have to drill the ends of the crack, v the crack out with a grinder, Pre heat the entire piece to a suitable temperature, perform the weld, peen the welded area, and then let cool at a controlled rate.

Most often, it isn't worth it time or financially, which is why manifolds are often replaced.

In this situation, I'd replace it, because the crack is in a high stress/flex area being near the turbo.
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Old 05-20-2019, 04:39 PM   #6
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I can’t see the crack ��
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Old 05-20-2019, 05:11 PM   #7
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The Phillips' point at it's ends.
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I canít see the crack ��
Thanx, all y'all, I didn't know that.
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Old 05-20-2019, 05:57 PM   #8
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i have also had success drilling the ends of the crack beveling the crack preheating the area to cherry red and running a mig gun across it for small area,s if its not to close to a gasket.
A brass flux coated brazing rod will also work [or have had success with many times ] because you have to pre-heat the area to braze anyway.
using the same drill the ends and bevel the crack.
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Old 05-20-2019, 06:43 PM   #9
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i have also had success drilling the ends of the crack beveling the crack preheating the area to cherry red and running a mig gun across it for small area,s if its not to close to a gasket.
A brass flux coated brazing rod will also work [or have had success with many times ] because you have to pre-heat the area to braze anyway.
using the same drill the ends and bevel the crack.
a friend of mine ( an ingenious old Swiss guy that trained as a machinist as a young man in Switzerland ) uses (used) Borax as a flux when he brazes - he used to have his own carbide generator and lot of old fashioned tools - seemed to be able to fix most anything from tiny to bulldozers and have the repair wind up stronger than new - kind of guy that had a solution to any mechanical problem - loved working in the bush with him - always considered myself to be a bit on the ingenious side, but working with Joe was like being in the presence of a master - Joe was injured in a snow slide and a blow to his head caused him to go blind, so he isn't able to do any of that now - he was awarded a medal a few years back in honour of the support he gave to our community - one of his accomplishments was to design his own T-Bar lift on our community ski hill - he designed and built the retractable T-bars, the cable towers and many of the other things needed for smooth and safe operation - and cleared the ski run with his own cat - all volunteer -the kind of person every community needs
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Old 05-20-2019, 07:51 PM   #10
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DT-466 manifolds are an easy find.. toss it and get another.
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Old 05-20-2019, 07:53 PM   #11
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I dont know how to braze but i do know how to weld sort of. So i ground it out

And then i fill it up. I know it's not perfect but i got it reinstalled I'm going to run it and see what happens. If i have to replace, oh well no biggie.
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Old 05-20-2019, 08:03 PM   #12
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are you also going to be up-fueling to want a bigger turbo? big turbo does zerp good and can actually reduce power if you are already at a good fuel / air ratio in the engine./. unless you are goping to turn up the fuel..


most DT-466s and DT-466E's are pretty under-fueled so you can crank the fuel up and not necessarily need a bigger turbo until you start going with bigger injectors or P-pumping (mechanical 466)... an HX50 is big but will spool slow.. you can spin it if you are fueling heavy.. and it will roar at the higher end..



put a Pyro on.. in fact i would drill and tap the pyro probe hole on your new manifold before you put it on the bus... just plug it if you dont want a pyro noe but you will be ready when you do...

-Christopher
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Old 05-20-2019, 08:23 PM   #13
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Ya i turned the fuel up on it and im seeing some black smoke so i figured i couls get a little bigger turbo and go from there. I have the 190 hp engine. I just put a pyro thats when i noticed the huge crack. im no expert but i think it has the p pump on it.
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Old 05-20-2019, 09:44 PM   #14
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1995 should be a P-pump.. there are a lot of turbos that will fit it.. I dont like the small turbine outlet on the HX35.. the HX40 or 50 is a better bet but will definitely not spool fast.. are you smoking black once you get into the mid / higjer RPMs?



you may also find with your manifold crack fixed that your boost goes up some.. doesnt take much of an exhaust leak to lower the inlet pressure to the turbine side of the turbo..
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Old 05-20-2019, 10:17 PM   #15
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Yea it has a little steady black smoke at the higher rpms with it where it is set right now. Am hoping to have turbo work better now but i havent got to test drive yet.
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Old 06-28-2019, 09:38 AM   #16
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little update on this. the weld cracked so i am just going to order a manifold. oh well.


also found out why i had low power. massive crack in the intake boot elbom that connects to the head. it was underneath where i couldn't see it and the boot looked in great shape. now it runs like a beast up hills.
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Old 06-28-2019, 09:45 AM   #17
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found a few good ones for good price on ebay. does anyone know if the exhaust manifold for dt466e and dt466 are exactly the same? they appear very similar.
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Old 06-28-2019, 09:50 AM   #18
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Only a part number could tell you that. My thoughts is no, but I've never compared the two next to each other.
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