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Old 09-22-2019, 07:14 PM   #1
Skoolie
 
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Dt466 sludge all under

Hey whatís this pipe going down it looks like and oil drain? And itís also kinda loose . I can probably pull it out but sounds like a bad idea?


Also thereís tons of sludge built up all around my oil pan and over the transmisiůn all the way to the front axel... (flatnose bus)
Also this is after I cleaned a lot off... a lot .
Any rhyme or reason?

Also thereís a coolant leak? But itís coming from the fill cap? Maybe someone just over filled it too much?
I only let it run for like 20 minutes?
When I bought it in California it did the same thing . I thought it would slowley come out on the way home ....
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Old 09-22-2019, 07:24 PM   #2
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Also I’m trying to level out my bus in preparation for raising the roof...
my stem on the tire or the little needle on the stem seems to be deflating if the threaded cap comes off.
The other side Dosent do that?
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Old 09-22-2019, 07:24 PM   #3
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It's a vent/breather tube.
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Old 09-22-2019, 07:27 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BusT View Post
Also Iím trying to level out my bus in preparation for raising the roof...
my stem on the tire or the little needle on the stem seems to be deflating if the threaded cap comes off.
The other side Dosent do that?
Keep the cap on. Seriously though, change the valve stem(easy), or replace the schrader valve (requires dismounting the tire, or at least breaking the bead loose).
This is often an issue when beads are used to balance tires, the beads foul the valve core.
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Old 09-22-2019, 08:44 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by o1marc View Post
Keep the cap on. Seriously though, change the valve stem(easy), or replace the schrader valve (requires dismounting the tire, or at least breaking the bead loose).
This is often an issue when beads are used to balance tires, the beads foul the valve core.
Hahaha sounds like a job for tomorrow ......
One week later.....

Really I’ll nust leave the cap on for now and try to find another way to level the bus... so see blocks and wood shims ....
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Old 09-22-2019, 08:46 PM   #6
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Why all the sludge under the engine .... did you see that on your bus ? Or anyone else’s ?
My daily driver 7.3 ambulance with 495,000 miles was dirty but nowhere like this
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Old 09-22-2019, 08:47 PM   #7
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Replace the radiator cap. Spring or seal could be getting weak causing it to leak. Otherwise, there is a system pressure issue (too much pressure for the cap typically caused by an overheat condition or combustion gasses entering the cooling system).


The tube is a crank case vent. This allows blow by gasses and crank case pressure/moisture to vent to atmosphere. The only time I'd be concerned with the vent is if liquid oil is passing out of the tube or if there is substantial pressure blowing out of the tube. If either are happening, the engine is likely due for overhaul.
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Old 09-22-2019, 08:53 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by BusT View Post
Hahaha sounds like a job for tomorrow ......
One week later.....

Really Iíll nust leave the cap on for now and try to find another way to level the bus... so see blocks and wood shims ....
You don't have any other tires around you can borrow a stem from?
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Old 09-22-2019, 09:20 PM   #9
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You don't have any other tires around you can borrow a stem from?
all the tires I have are sitting under the cars....

Man so check this out .... that oil sludge all under the engine got me thinking .... so I started it and let it run... about 20 minutes .... while running I thought I saw a little bit of smoke coming from that draft blow by tube but really not a lot ... like barley any I had to look hard and thought that there could be....
Well I decided to check the oil.... it was high . Checked it 3 more times .... super high. Turned it off. Checked it still high.... then I checked it about 10 more times and it was perfect ....
I did a walk around and saw that little puddle of coolant ... Iím starting to think maybe the liners the o rings could be failing letting coolant into the engine and then maybe somehow backing off and then Iím leaking coolant on the ground ....
It has me kind of worrying now....
well that and when I brought it home it felt like it went into limp mode but I thought it was electrical and maybe the transmisiůn data link was glitching .
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Old 09-22-2019, 09:39 PM   #10
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Hmm... oil level wouldn't return to normal level if it was being contaminated by coolant.


Oil will expand as heated. If the engine was full when cold then checked when at temp, its likely the oil expanded from heat. If you are concerned, don't run it any more.



Get a sample kit from blackstone and send off an oil sample. That will tell you for certain if you have any coolant in the oil.


As for the cap leak, I'd say it's likely a bad cap.
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Old 09-22-2019, 10:18 PM   #11
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I got a kit coming so I can wait . I’m still going to press forward on a roof raise...
I have been intrigued about 4 cylinder diesels now, kind of like tangos... it I have what I have now and I’ll make it work.
If this oil gets tested and says it’s cloudy I will definitely be scared
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Old 09-22-2019, 10:20 PM   #12
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It kind of looks like there’s just way to much coolant in the reservoir . I only see a cold line but it’s topped off still . Cold engine
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Old 09-22-2019, 10:47 PM   #13
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It could be over full for sure but typically the leak would come from the reservoir.. not the pressure cap.


Get the oil tested then go from there.


If the oil test comes back bad.. then you need to decide the route to take.


If you are mechanically inclined, it's not overly difficult to in-frame a 466 and kits are relatively cheap (~$1k). Majority of cost is labor.


Anyways... post back up when you get oil results.
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Old 09-23-2019, 06:33 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr4btTahoe View Post
It could be over full for sure but typically the leak would come from the reservoir.. not the pressure cap.


Get the oil tested then go from there.


If the oil test comes back bad.. then you need to decide the route to take.


If you are mechanically inclined, it's not overly difficult to in-frame a 466 and kits are relatively cheap (~$1k). Majority of cost is labor.


Anyways... post back up when you get oil results.
The coolant if coming from the reservoirs cap?

Not radiator ?
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Old 09-23-2019, 07:58 AM   #15
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Not sure of year on your bus... but earlier models used a cap on the radiator with a pressure rating. When that pressure was exceeded, it would let coolant flow to and from the overflow bottle (reservoir). Newer versions have the pressure cap on the reservoir (now called a degas bottle).


If it's over full, it'll purge coolant when it comes up to temp. Drain some of the coolant off and replace the cap.
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Old 09-23-2019, 08:39 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr4btTahoe View Post
Not sure of year on your bus... but earlier models used a cap on the radiator with a pressure rating. When that pressure was exceeded, it would let coolant flow to and from the overflow bottle (reservoir). Newer versions have the pressure cap on the reservoir (now called a degas bottle).


If it's over full, it'll purge coolant when it comes up to temp. Drain some of the coolant off and replace the cap.
Itís a 2002 international .
The degas cap for the (reservoir bottle ) Iíll replace?
But this morning I didnít see a radiator cap. Iíll look again but your saying probalay the degas bottle cap needs to be replaced
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Old 09-23-2019, 09:00 AM   #17
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On a 2002, the pressure cap is the degas bottle cap that you had a picture of. On earlier models, the radiator itself had a pressure cap.


Yes I would drain a bit of coolant (down to the cold fill line on the reservoir) and get a new cap for the bottle. That will likely cure the coolant drip issue.



Then just wait for oil analysis.
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Old 09-23-2019, 09:52 AM   #18
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1. That is a road draft tube, it doesn't have to fit snuggly. It's purpose is to vent crankcase gasses onto the ground.

2.That's road grime. You likely have the seals on the engine weeping a little causing dirt to stick to everything. Most don't worry about it, but if it bothers you, you can use any degreaser to clean it off.

3.With the coolant cold, make sure the level in the overflow is at or below the cold fill line. If it's above that, you'll push coolant out onto the ground when the engine is brought up to temp. Pull some out if you have to. The overflow cap is supposed to leak/vent. Have the radiator cap tested to make sure it's okay.

4. Replace the valve stem core. Any shop should be able to do that easily and they'll likely do it for free/goodwill.

5. Check the oil level after the engine has been off for a few minutes. Temp isn't really important, just make sure it's between the low and max level indicators. Don't check it while it's running, that doesn't tell you anything.
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Old 09-23-2019, 11:11 AM   #19
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A suggestion......

Deal with mechanical issues and make sure that you have a solid foundation to build from. Before you tackle the roof raise.

I saw a conversion for sale a few years ago. The seller bought the bus, took it home. He spent over a year working on the conversion and finally took it out on the road. They didn't get very far and it died.

They had it towed it the nearest shop and we're told that it showed signs on overheating and had coolant in the oil. I forget how much they were quoted on a rebuild but it was enough that they eventually sold the bus for scrap.

That gents story left me a little concerned. I put well over 1000 miles, about 1/3 of that loaded heavy, in hot weather, over mountain passes, before I did anything beyond pulling the seats.
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