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Old 11-01-2018, 09:53 PM   #11
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I came from a background of hotrodding.. and anytime I pulled apart an engine it always got new fasteners.. I also carefully cleaned the bolt holes in the block with a thread chaser (mainly the mains and heads)..



im wierd (and a tool geek).. id probably rent the liner puller / imstaller.. but if you can get them R and R without damaging the block then any way you choose is fine. the yucky stuff shouldnt be an issue in the head.. you'll likely want to send it out for valve work anyway.. it will come back clean.



my typical way was with any new engine build or rebuild was put it together, perform whatever run-in / break-in initial period was required, then I changed the oil and filters.. (usually less than 100 miles in).. that always got rid of anything i missed..

-Christopher
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Old 11-02-2018, 05:10 AM   #12
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A lot of head bolts now are stretch to yield, and can not be reused because they are now stretched, and you will not get correct torque on them if used again.
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Old 11-02-2018, 08:24 PM   #13
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This is the kit I used and I've put about 30k on it since the rebuild:
International Navistar DT466E Inframe-Overhaul Engine Rebuild Kit
My mechanic who has rebuilt many engines over the years said it was the same as the OEM kit.
The early 2000's DT466E had issues with the seals reacting to the coolant/cavitation because if I remember correctly they were using some kind of long life coolant. They changed the antifreeze recommendations (?) and maybe the chemical properties of the seals (?) ...really just speaking from memory here.
Yeah, don't ever use the green stuff.

I'm not a mechanic but he let me hang out in the shop and watch them do the work. I bought the parts and took the head to a place in Chattanooga to get re-done. Looked fairly straightforward, almost think I could do it next time.

Ran great afterwards but every once in a while it would seem to lose a little power. Figured out that one of the seals on an injector wasn't seated right. Amazing what little things can do to affect an engine.

+1 on the new radiator. When my temps come up to 200 degrees I keep an eyeball glued to the gauge. Don't ever want to overheat again!
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Old 11-03-2018, 05:43 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boojiewoojie View Post
This is the kit I used and I've put about 30k on it since the rebuild:
International Navistar DT466E Inframe-Overhaul Engine Rebuild Kit
My mechanic who has rebuilt many engines over the years said it was the same as the OEM kit.
The early 2000's DT466E had issues with the seals reacting to the coolant/cavitation because if I remember correctly they were using some kind of long life coolant. They changed the antifreeze recommendations (?) and maybe the chemical properties of the seals (?) ...really just speaking from memory here.
Yeah, don't ever use the green stuff.

I'm not a mechanic but he let me hang out in the shop and watch them do the work. I bought the parts and took the head to a place in Chattanooga to get re-done. Looked fairly straightforward, almost think I could do it next time.

Ran great afterwards but every once in a while it would seem to lose a little power. Figured out that one of the seals on an injector wasn't seated right. Amazing what little things can do to affect an engine.

+1 on the new radiator. When my temps come up to 200 degrees I keep an eyeball glued to the gauge. Don't ever want to overheat again!
The red or blue coolant are what ate away the innards of my DT.
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Old 11-03-2018, 09:09 AM   #15
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As a side note, it's pretty easy to identify a torque-to-yield bolt vs a standard bolt. TTY bolts thin out the shaft so that's the part that stretches. The weakest point on a normal bolt is the threaded area since it has the least material. All that being said, for the amount of work you're doing I would recommend replacing the head bolts. If it does use normal bolts and any stretch has occurred in the threaded area than it is compromised. If it used TTY bolts then by their inherent nature they will be compromised.
I reuse non-TTY bolts on some projects. My Subaru with 380000kms? Yep. Not buying any more parts for that car than I need to (it's now at 410000km) and it doesn't use TTY bolts. A snowblower engine? Sure.
Something as expensive and time consuming as a DT466? Hell no. ��
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Old 11-03-2018, 09:55 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB View Post
The red or blue coolant are what ate away the innards of my DT.



navistar at some point released a TSI on various coolants.. I know on my 444E it was precisely stated that there were certain serial number cutoffs for when and when not to use ELC coolants..



that said aftermarket ELC synthetic coolants were released to combat and simplify the issues of what to use and how to maintain it..



while the 466E isnt a ford powerstroke. it still suffered manhy of the coolant related issues that various powerstrokes sufered (yes even the venerable 7.3)..



powerstrokehelp did a video on what coolants in the V-8s wewre acceptable and what years..



I went to an AMSOIL syunthetic coolant in my 444E and never looked back..

my DTA360 still has standard coolant with the SCA and i have to test-strip it periodically..



if you dont mind test-strippimng and maintaining / changing your coolant every couple years then standard green with additive and the Pre-charged time-release coolant filter seems to be safe for all of the DT's.



the synthetic should also be safe.. i just havent put it in mine yet.. but the blue and standard red ELC seems to be lethal to engines that dont mjatch the proper cut-off dates for it.. (and even some that are!)



-Christopher
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Old 11-21-2018, 07:36 PM   #17
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Thank you all for the input on bolt reuse. I will go with new bolts. Well, I got the pistons, rods and liners pulled. Piston #s 1 & 5 have scoring on the piston skirts. # 1 is scored enough that it had aluminum smeared into the oil ring and groove which means the oil ring was no longer free floating. I doubt if it would have gone to many more miles without seizing. When I pulled the liners, it wasn't a surprise to find the seals blown on cylinders 1 & 5
The rod bearings look really good. No unusual wear patterns. So far I have only pulled 1 main bearing cap and it looked good to. Right now I'm looking for a local shop to rebuild my head.
I think I am going to add 2 non electronic coolant temp gauges. One near the thermostat and another as far to the rear of the engine as I can. I do not want to do this again!
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Old 11-23-2018, 11:37 AM   #18
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Very good Idea

I like the idea of a rear temp gauge.
From what I've have heard from all the techs here that have Navistar experience, if these DT466 engines get hot a little, they roast the liner seals.

From looking at my engine cooling package, their side by side radiators are a big joke for over the road use. I am looking at installing the cooling package from a Blue Bird with the Cummins engine or the cooling package from a 4900 or 4700 International truck. It has the up and over charge air cooler and the notches in the top tank of the radiator.

The lower hose connection is a bit different but its just about finding the right hose to fit.

The idea is to beef up the cooling package as much as possible to prevent this from happening again. Stop and go school use is far different from driving up the Rocky mountains with a full load of kids, food, water, batteries and fuel at 70 mph.

Ill keep ya'll up to date with my cooling package modifications.
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Old 11-23-2018, 12:30 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FamilyCircus View Post
I like the idea of a rear temp gauge.
From what I've have heard from all the techs here that have Navistar experience, if these DT466 engines get hot a little, they roast the liner seals.

From looking at my engine cooling package, their side by side radiators are a big joke for over the road use. I am looking at installing the cooling package from a Blue Bird with the Cummins engine or the cooling package from a 4900 or 4700 International truck. It has the up and over charge air cooler and the notches in the top tank of the radiator.

The lower hose connection is a bit different but its just about finding the right hose to fit.

The idea is to beef up the cooling package as much as possible to prevent this from happening again. Stop and go school use is far different from driving up the Rocky mountains with a full load of kids, food, water, batteries and fuel at 70 mph.

Ill keep ya'll up to date with my cooling package modifications.
If you can find a radiator setup for a 2003 or 2004 IC CE300 it has a full rad and full I/C. Nice setup. I've got this on my CE300.
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Old 11-23-2018, 12:32 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FamilyCircus View Post
I like the idea of a rear temp gauge.
From what I've have heard from all the techs here that have Navistar experience, if these DT466 engines get hot a little, they roast the liner seals.

From looking at my engine cooling package, their side by side radiators are a big joke for over the road use. I am looking at installing the cooling package from a Blue Bird with the Cummins engine or the cooling package from a 4900 or 4700 International truck. It has the up and over charge air cooler and the notches in the top tank of the radiator.

The lower hose connection is a bit different but its just about finding the right hose to fit.

The idea is to beef up the cooling package as much as possible to prevent this from happening again. Stop and go school use is far different from driving up the Rocky mountains with a full load of kids, food, water, batteries and fuel at 70 mph.

Ill keep ya'll up to date with my cooling package modifications.
I'll subscribe to that thread!
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