Dt466e no start

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by Rawlings

This might be a longshot but I am assuming DT means detroit. I have a crown with DT 671. I took the bus to get the tires changed and when I got back the bus wouldn't start it would crank but not fully turn on, I was so scared, I diagnosed everything and nothing.... then one of the shop guys said when they moved the bus the engine wouldn't shut so the young guy pressed the "Engine Shut Off Button by the key ignition" haha thats an emergency button and will drop a lever somewhere which suffocates the engine and will shut it off, if that lever doesn't get manually re-adjusted the bus will crank but won't turn on because there's not enough air I am guessing, anyways after I readjusted the lever the bus turned on!! Hopefully this is it for you!! You might have an emergency engine button that got moved or the lever got moved when changing the coolent or something look for that!!!!

No its a Navistar DT466E.

[ewo1]

Originally Posted by Booyah45828

Did you ever check for codes? What's the oil level look like?

dt466e uses heui injectors and if the hpop is going out you'll have what you're experiencing. Won't start on it's own but will start and continue running if a little ether is used. Has to do with the pump not making enough pressure while cranking, but will make enough to keep it running if it's already running. You could also have bad injector o-rings to cause this.

I am not a diesel mechanic and quite frankly of it wasn't for you tube and the internet I would have no clue on how to fix many things.

That being said, I caught this interesting video the other day on low oil pressure on a dt466 and learned something about the HEUI system and how low oil pressure symptoms can be easily checked on a DT466.

Here is a link to the video and I hope it helps you out.

https://www.mechanicshub.com/toolbox...engine-part-1/

[Bigfoot18]

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB

IDk why your bus isn't starting but have you thoroughly researched DT coolants?
The red stuff is what's supposed to be in there but many folks switched to something else because lots of owners had timing cover leaks and/or liner seals fail and it had something to do with the coolant.
Not trying to scare you, its just that I had a 2004 IC CE300 with a leaky timing cover. The coolant ate through the timing cover at the outlet to the block.

Hello! I was a CAT mechanic for several years. I have also had training on the DT466E when I worked at Ryder for a little while. The CAT HEUI engine is an exact copy of the DT466E the only difference is the HEUI oil pressure range.

If there is an issue with the coolant temp sensor like, if it is reading the coolant as being at operating temp and the coolant is actually cold then, the ECM will use choose the warm temperature start map instead of the cold. If the ambient temp is cold, the engine will not start. Vie had this happen allot on CAT engines. The easiest way to check is to turn your key on and look at your engine temp gouge. If the engine is cold but the gouge reads warm then, your sensor is bad or the signal wire from it to the ECM ha an issue.

The red coolant will turn into acid over time if it isn't changed regularly. This was told to me by an old radiator repair man. He said the acid is strong enough to eat a hole in radiators and heater cores. I won't use it in anything that I plan on keeping.

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by Bigfoot18

Hello! I was a CAT mechanic for several years. I have also had training on the DT466E when I worked at Ryder for a little while. The CAT HEUI engine is an exact copy of the DT466E the only difference is the HEUI oil pressure range.

If there is an issue with the coolant temp sensor like, if it is reading the coolant as being at operating temp and the coolant is actually cold then, the ECM will use choose the warm temperature start map instead of the cold. If the ambient temp is cold, the engine will not start. Vie had this happen allot on CAT engines. The easiest way to check is to turn your key on and look at your engine temp gouge. If the engine is cold but the gouge reads warm then, your sensor is bad or the signal wire from it to the ECM ha an issue.

The red coolant will turn into acid over time if it isn't changed regularly. This was told to me by an old radiator repair man. He said the acid is strong enough to eat a hole in radiators and heater cores. I won't use it in anything that I plan on keeping.

Nice to have you on here man! This 3126 is the first Cat I've had but I like it a lot. The previous bus with the 466E and the leaky timing cover wasn't taken care of properly by the school.
The red is probably what ate through my bus' timing cover. It came with red and was switched to some blue stuff before I got it. Bus was neglected for sure, lots of signs of poor maintenance.

[o1marc]

What are the proper part numbers for the filters needed on a DT466E fuel filter change. There's a filter, a water separator, and another.

[Bigfoot18]

My friend has his own heavy equipment shop. Had a John Deere grader in last year with water in the oil. The water looked like pond water. All rust. It ate through the front cover. Customer had bought it at an auction. My friend put a remain long block in it.

Is your 3126 mechanical or electronic fuel injected? I built several of the 3116's and changed injectors and injector cups in way more. The first 3126's were just like the 3116 but had more displacement. Not sure how much more. I never need to know I guess. Stay away from the CAT common rail engines though. They are all junk. They aren't gonna go near as long between repairs. And the newer troubleshooting procedures are very expensive.

[Bigfoot18]

Any truck parts dealer like Truck Pro could get those for you

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by Bigfoot18

My friend has his own heavy equipment shop. Had a John Deere grader in last year with water in the oil. The water looked like pond water. All rust. It ate through the front cover. Customer had bought it at an auction. My friend put a remain long block in it.

Is your 3126 mechanical or electronic fuel injected? I built several of the 3116's and changed injectors and injector cups in way more. The first 3126's were just like the 3116 but had more displacement. Not sure how much more. I never need to know I guess. Stay away from the CAT common rail engines though. They are all junk. They aren't gonna go near as long between repairs. And the newer troubleshooting procedures are very expensive.

Yeah from what I can tell the 3126 is one of the better medium duty Cats, if not the best. Mine's a 1999 and its electronic. Its got really low miles and runs like new. I'm loving it so far. Only put about 1000 miles on it so far.

[Bigfoot18]

It doesn't seem to be common knowledge but don't pre fill your fuel filters when you change them. It gives the injectors a gulp on non filtered fuel each time. The electronic injectors can't take the trash the old mechanical ones could and it will lead to premature injector failure. Put them on empty and use your priming pump. Even the cleanest fuel has chunks that are too big to go through the injector without some form of damage.

[More Power]

Maybe this diagnostic for might help. If you need software you can download servicemaxx 1708 (engine diag software) for free from www.navistarservicesoftware.com. However, you would have to have a communication cable to use the software (nexiq usb link or nexiq usb link 2 are the best to use with this software). You can prob find a reasonably priced nexiq usb link on ebay.

[2po2watch]

Have you tried turning it off and on again? Lol. But seriously, it’s worth the effort to take the battery cables off and touch them together to effectively “reboot” the Ecm. I’ve had success when nothing else worked and it is quick and costs nothing.

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by Bigfoot18

It doesn't seem to be common knowledge but don't pre fill your fuel filters when you change them. It gives the injectors a gulp on non filtered fuel each time. The electronic injectors can't take the trash the old mechanical ones could and it will lead to premature injector failure. Put them on empty and use your priming pump. Even the cleanest fuel has chunks that are too big to go through the injector without some form of damage.

Yeah, I know not to prefill on these. I've been watching a video series on Cats.

[Bigfoot18]

I replaced a complete set of injectors on a new loader with a C4.4 only had 800 hours. All because they prefilled the filters. Obviously not warranty LOL. It happens allot on the common rail engines. They are super picky!

[Entech.medic]

Ok. After many hours and a chunk of money I have replaced the fuel line square cut orings, the fuel inlet fitting/oring, the entire length of fuel line and the oring fitting to the tank along with new filter and oring. I also bought a cap with a valve on it, attached a clear hose to it with a pick stuck through it so I could press the valve and have diesel drain down to a pan instead of in my cab, it also worked well to see how much air was coming out. I highly suggest this for dog house engines! It still would run well if started with ether but wouldnt crank on it's own. I got a tech to come out with a computer. The IPR had gone bad. Replaced that and she fired right up! After pulling the IPR noticed that the screen inside was dismounted and turned sideways which apparently is an indicator it went bad. Also the ICP pressure reads about 650 while cranking and at normal idle and over 1,100 while high idle at 1200 rpm. Is that normal for the pressure to read that high or do I have another issue?

Now that my bus is running it's back to the original problem. Its overheating. I have sent an oil sample out and it came back good with no water/coolant in oil. Also performed a block test and it was negative for combustion gases. I've done a coolant flush but still overheating. Even sitting with it idling around 1500 rpm it will overheat. I've thoroughly cleaned the rad fins. I'm trying to figure out if the thermostat is stuck closed or the radiator is plugged internally. Here is what I know:

*the bus will take probably about 20 minutes to get to operating temp while sitting idle at about 1500 rpm

*the bus heaters get hot and stay hot for as long as you want to run them

*the radiator fins are always cool to the touch

*passenger side rad frame is warm but not hot along with passenger side hose

*drivers side frame is considerable cooler and hose is cool as well

*pipe coming off thermostat read about 133-140 degrees with temp gun

*reservoir tank seems to be the hottest part and with gun roads about 222 degrees when water gauge read about 210

There is no way for me to view the coolant circulation in the tank or radiator. The thermostat looks to be kind if a pain to remove as I have a flat nose bus and have to work through the dog house. But the radiator is no 30 minute job either.

I'm hoping someone here can give me some pointers as to which one may be my problem, if not another issue all together!

Thanks!

[Entech.medic]

Originally Posted by More Power

Maybe this diagnostic for might help. If you need software you can download servicemaxx 1708 (engine diag software) for free from www.navistarservicesoftware.com. However, you would have to have a communication cable to use the software (nexiq usb link or nexiq usb link 2 are the best to use with this software). You can prob find a reasonably priced nexiq usb link on ebay.

I am super interested in this! Do you know of anything like this that would work on a tablet or would I need to get a laptop? I could have nearly paid for one of these for what it cost to have a tech come out!

[Sleddgracer]

is the temperature gauge reading correctly?

[Entech.medic]

Originally Posted by Sleddgracer

is the temperature gauge reading correctly?

The gauge actually is not reading correctly. I need to replace it. It reads about 20 degrees cooler than it should. Confirmed by mechanic that came out with computer. The water/oil light/alarm is reading correctly.
So unfortunately yes, the engine is actually over heating. Regrettably I actually had it boiling over for a short period before I realized that the gauge will not go above 210.

[BlackJohn]

Is your coolant new and at a 50% mix?

If not that might explain part of the overheating issue.
Any ratio above 50% weakens the ability of the coolant to cool properly.
Thermostat is a must do in any case.


John

[Bigfoot18]

Injector actuation pressure sounds ok. Since your top radiator hose is so cool it sounds like a stuck thermostat. Thats why your radiator feels cool. There's no coolant circulating.

[Entech.medic]

Originally Posted by Bigfoot18

Injector actuation pressure sounds ok. Since your top radiator hose is so cool it sounds like a stuck thermostat. Thats why your radiator feels cool. There's no coolant circulating.

So with a stuck thermostat I guess I was thinking with circulation the temp would rise very quickly. Would it be normal to take about 20 min to reach operating temp at 1500 rpm with a stuck thermostat? Thanks