Increasing HP on T444E

[cadillackid]

most put them on the bottom, as it means you are drilling up so shavings fall down, plus on a school bus its an easy reach from underneath.. you need to reach in with a drill and a tap handle.. you'll tap a 1/8" NPT thread (for 90% of the EGT probes).. whichever gauge you buy will tell you the size of the thread you need for the probe.

[tatersalad812]

Originally Posted by cadillackid

most put them on the bottom, as it means you are drilling up so shavings fall down, plus on a school bus its an easy reach from underneath.. you need to reach in with a drill and a tap handle.. you'll tap a 1/8" NPT thread (for 90% of the EGT probes).. whichever gauge you buy will tell you the size of the thread you need for the probe.

I just did mine from the bottom and it was a breeze. I left my engine running while I drilled the hole and tapped it just to keep metal out... use a fan it gets a little overbearing with fumes

Side note, anyone care to share the cracked software to help a fella turn a bus up? or take a donation for it? I have a nexiq and the regular servicmaxx but cant edit the power

[cadillackid]

Let me make sure the link still works or I’ll make a new one , you’ll want to find the 94-97 444e service manual posted on this forum to get the EFRC and HP codes. I’ve never gotten fancy enough to type them into a. Spreadsheet . The codes work for all years of the engine .

Or if you are going straight to the top set EFRC to 2151 and HP to 250. If you have AT545 this is a sure way that soon you won’t have AT545 anymore.

[tatersalad812]

Originally Posted by cadillackid

Let me make sure the link still works or I’ll make a new one , you’ll want to find the 94-97 444e service manual posted on this forum to get the EFRC and HP codes. I’ve never gotten fancy enough to type them into a. Spreadsheet . The codes work for all years of the engine .

Or if you are going straight to the top set EFRC to 2151 and HP to 250. If you have AT545 this is a sure way that soon you won’t have AT545 anymore.

I have the 2000 trans in this bus, just upgraded fro a 97 dt466e with a 545 and a 643 on deck to go in it if i ever make it that far with that bus

you sir are my hero, I see your in columbus, ive got a few beers on me if you drink, if you ever need anything im glad to help a fella out!

[cadillackid]

Originally Posted by tatersalad812

I have the 2000 trans in this bus, just upgraded fro a 97 dt466e with a 545 and a 643 on deck to go in it if i ever make it that far with that bus

you sir are my hero, I see your in columbus, ive got a few beers on me if you drink, if you ever need anything im glad to help a fella out!

I PM'd you the link, let me know if it works for you. the 2000 series should handle your 444E no issue.. my allison 1000 is built pretty heavy but iut doesnt even flinch ayt the turned-up engine. . now we will see what happens after I get the new sticks and turbo going

[tatersalad812]

Originally Posted by cadillackid

I PM'd you the link, let me know if it works for you. the 2000 series should handle your 444E no issue.. my allison 1000 is built pretty heavy but iut doesnt even flinch ayt the turned-up engine. . now we will see what happens after I get the new sticks and turbo going

You sir are the man!!! That put some pep in its step, unhooked the wastegate for some fun and to see how much it would build, got 20lbs out of ole girl, then plugged it back in. Me and the neighbor or super happy. He's buying a pyro for his and is ready to turn it up. It sat at 900 through all the gears and no smoke so im not complaining. What's the next step to more power? Injectors and turbo?

[cadillackid]

im not sure which turbo you have.. my stock turbo is a 1.0 AR on both the compressor and turbine.. (mine is the olkder non wastegated).. a wheel might bring some more boost..



you can go somewhat bigger injectors and stay split shot.. going too big and your HPOP wont keep up. you'll need a bigger HPOP.


I have a set of stage 1 split shots that im putting in mine, i have a wheel for my turbo although I have a bit of play in the turbo so im considering just replacing it with a 38R that already has a billet wheel. since my rear gears are a bit too tall after my trans swap id like to get a little more boost at the bottom end of the RPM range to keep the EGT down..


finding a rear gear set for mine has been tricky so at the moment re-gearing is off the table.

[cadillackid]

once you get up in the 300 HP range getting rid of the mechanical fuel pump and going E-fuel is a decent update to do also.. maskes changing the fuel filter easier too as you can run the electric pump to prime the air off the bowl..

[PatrickBaptist]

Originally Posted by cadillackid

once you get up in the 300 HP range getting rid of the mechanical fuel pump and going E-fuel is a decent update to do also.. maskes changing the fuel filter easier too as you can run the electric pump to prime the air off the bowl..

Amen to that. I've done several e-fuel systems with fuel bowl delete, cleans up the valley too so it's easier to work on some stuff.
I wouldn't keep that stock fuel bowl period. If your intrested I've made a few YT videos on that mod as well as a detailed writeup with parts list. One of my fav mods, I've also done it to my own bus as well as a few of the F350s I've had over the years.

in my opinion that wicked wheel 2 from Diesel Site is the best wheel to use on a stock turbo, I just put one in a T444E I pulled from a bus and am swapping it into a 85 IH S1600 dump truck.

[cadillackid]

I was wondering about the bowl delete. I need to look into that. where does the filter and regulator go in a bowl deleted engine?



which turbo do you have? the non wastgated 38?



the dieselsite wheel is the one I have sitting in my garage now. I was going to put it on but when i pulled the pipe i have a little more endplay than I wanted so figured im going to need to replace or rebuild the turbo anyway (translate have a turbo shop rebuild the turbo, i dont have the tools to properly set up a turbo the right way)

[PatrickBaptist]

Originally Posted by cadillackid

I was wondering about the bowl delete. I need to look into that. where does the filter and regulator go in a bowl deleted engine?

which turbo do you have? the non wastgated 38?

the dieselsite wheel is the one I have sitting in my garage now. I was going to put it on but when i pulled the pipe i have a little more endplay than I wanted so figured im going to need to replace or rebuild the turbo anyway (translate have a turbo shop rebuild the turbo, i dont have the tools to properly set up a turbo the right way)

I put 2 spin on filters under the frame rail, the FPR I mount on top of the HPOP res, fuel comes in from pump and filters to rear of heads then comes out at the front of the heads into the regulator and then back to tank.
Electronic Fuel Conversion 94.5-97 OBS F250/F350 7.3L PowerStroke Diesel | Patrick The Salvage Guy Links to videos are there as well.

Yeah I wouldn't use the wheel with any shaft play that would be bad. Yeah I've got another feller that brought me a turbo to rebuild and I'm trying to figure out how I'm going to get those housing bolts out, the heads are wore so bad I can't get a grip on them with anything, they should be 8mm or 5/16" but they are now more like a 7.5mm and I can't find a wrench that size LOL. Prob going to wind up cutting the heads off and extracting the bots after it's apart...

The turbski I put the WW on is off a 95, so no waste gate.
I have a 2000 F350 with the waste gate that I have a WWII on, thing has 516k miles on the org engine and still runs good, it gets up to 28 PSI with that wheel on it, stock injectors.
It def spools quicker, it's worth the $250 in my opinion. Maybe those look alikes work just as good though, I dunno I haven't tried or installed them because anytime someone comes to me for that I always point em to that WWII. I've done 6 of those for others, anyone else that's I've setup have all agreed with me.

[Booyah45828]

Love the wicked wheel upgrade, but I've never ran one without rebuilding the turbo and balancing the assembly. Yes, the wheels are balanced, but I like to be sure the assembly is balanced as well. Just my 2 cents.

The ww2 is a good upgrade for a stock system, but if you guys are pushing more hp with injector upgrades as well, I'd look for a different turbo.

The alternative wheel upgrades look enticing from a cost standpoint, I'm looking at a billet wheel that's branded kinugawa for 100 bucks. But IDK if I trust something cheap spinning at 100k+ rpm, or if it will even be an improvement over a stock wheel.

[tatersalad812]

What are the odds yall have bendix or allison software? I bought a nexus to carry with me on adventures so I can troubleshoot on the side of the road if need be.

[Booyah45828]

I have both. Use the allison doc occasionally, mainly to reset the trans service pid. The bendix acom is used rarely, mainly to diagnose faulty wheel speed sensors.

Both are typically pretty solid trouble free systems.

[cadillackid]

I have doc and winrw32. but luckily my ABS has never given me any issues so I havent had a need for bendix (my ABS controller has a bendix label on it so im assuming thats what id use for it)..

[cadillackid]

Originally Posted by Booyah45828

Love the wicked wheel upgrade, but I've never ran one without rebuilding the turbo and balancing the assembly. Yes, the wheels are balanced, but I like to be sure the assembly is balanced as well. Just my 2 cents.

The ww2 is a good upgrade for a stock system, but if you guys are pushing more hp with injector upgrades as well, I'd look for a different turbo.

The alternative wheel upgrades look enticing from a cost standpoint, I'm looking at a billet wheel that's branded kinugawa for 100 bucks. But IDK if I trust something cheap spinning at 100k+ rpm, or if it will even be an improvement over a stock wheel.

what other turbo would you look at? I was thinking the GTP38R ball bearing turbo is a good solid unit

[tatersalad812]

Are you able to share them? We used the neighbors bendix to find out why the abs light was on but unfortunately it's company software and he can't share it with me. Just looking to cover all of my bases on software... and that 250hp tune is just what our busses needed!

[Booyah45828]

Originally Posted by cadillackid

what other turbo would you look at? I was thinking the GTP38R ball bearing turbo is a good solid unit

I've been eyeing one of these in ball bearing form. https://www.dieselworldmag.com/diese...harder-cooler/

The data looks good, but the problem is kc turbos isn't as well known as other builders, which is why I'm hesitant.

The gtp38r is an upgrade over stock, basically because of the ball bearing vs journal bearing. The different compressor flows a little more, but it's still a gt38 size, so you're not gaining much. My thoughts is that if you're going to spend 1k+ on a turbo upgrade, you should actually upgrade the turbo by going to a larger/more efficient unit.

I like the borg warner based stuff, size for size they seem to be more efficient then those from garrett and holset.

If you're stock power, and staying stock power, the gtp38r is a nice improvement.

[Booyah45828]

Originally Posted by tatersalad812

Are you able to share them? We used the neighbors bendix to find out why the abs light was on but unfortunately it's company software and he can't share it with me. Just looking to cover all of my bases on software... and that 250hp tune is just what our busses needed!

No. It's a license the shop purchases. I'm not sharing it.

Either buy your own, or buy one of the hacked versions off the internet.

[cadillackid]

Aren’t the stock 2600 rpm head gaskets only good for about 28 psi ? I’m getting up to 22-23 now with stock sticks and 250 ECM setting. If I wastegate that’s just wasted boost? I really need boost at lower rpms to keep EGT in check under heavier engine load factors ..