International Problems? Ask me! - Page 2

Booyah45828 · 06-16-2016, 09:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spgrogers

I have a 2002 International 7.3 and the Governor was preset at 55mph from when it was a school bus. Do you know how to disconnect, or turn it off or is it set up in the computer? I would appreciate any advice.Thanks

If your rear gearing and transmission are set up correctly, meaning that you're capable of going faster without redlining it, then the speed limiter is in the computer and should be easily changed by somebody with servicemaxx.

spgrogers · 06-16-2016, 09:46 AM

Thats kind of what I thought. Yes the bus will defiantly do faster than 55 its just set not to go any faster it will always do exactly 55 and thats top speed with no redlining. I just didn't know how international did its diagnostics or communication with the computer systems, so its a ServiceMaxx? Thanks

cadillackid · 06-16-2016, 01:23 PM

I wish I could find a darn fan clutch for my 91 internarional DT360... all my service manuals mention air fan clutches.. nothing mentions a viscous thermal clutch.. yet I have 1.. and i saw an 1989 Bus with one just like mine...

I supposed the OP is long gone now!.. but I need to get my fan spinning faster and correctly..

-Christopher

Booyah45828 · 06-16-2016, 02:28 PM

Servicemaxx is the program. Requires a subscription and a laptop with some sort of adapter. There are other service tools out there, such as the nexiq prolink that might be capable, but I'm not sure on that.

Booyah45828 · 06-16-2016, 02:30 PM

OP is long gone. You'll see that on forums like this where you'll have an expert show up for a short while and get bored then never come again.

It'd be nice if people would stop posting in here and start up a new thread regarding their problem.

spgrogers · 06-16-2016, 09:18 PM

So far my only issue has been the Governor. Just bought it a couple months ago and have not been able to put much road time on it yet. Im sure I'm going have a few more issues pop up.

Juneau Jimmy · 07-01-2016, 07:22 PM

Where do I get a "neutral safety lookout switch"?

Yellow_Submarine · 12-28-2016, 03:28 PM

Hi! I have a 1999 international with a dt444e engine. It has an Allison transmission. I have a trans leak and I've pinpointed the location. I've never messed with a trans but the spot the leak is at looks pretty easy. I have pictures of that helps. It's leaking from a small plate on the lowest part of the trans. It's right where the trans and flywheel meet up but at the bottom of the housing. The plate has two small hex bolts. How do I post pictures?

Brad_SwiftFur · 12-28-2016, 04:29 PM

Don't know how active this thread is, but ...

'87 IH with 9.0L engine and Allison Auto (not sure of model; I believe it was converted from a manual). Backup lights inoperative (have not done extensive diagnostic on them yet).

Dash was "dark"; removed it to replace bulbs. Some of which light up now (all did prior to re-installation). The dash has the flimsy Mylar printed circuit sheet ... and the voltage gauge stopped working after the re-install...

I also have the mechanical speedometer. If I redo the gauge cluster, I would like to convert it to an electronic version.

Booyah45828 · 12-28-2016, 05:03 PM

Submarine, that is just an inspection plate for the torque converter. If you have fluid coming out of there it is either the front seal, torque converter bushing is worn, or the pump to case gasket is leaking. All of which require removal of the trans.

Swift,
Not really sure what you're asking.

Carytowncat · 12-28-2016, 05:10 PM

Submarine,

I wouldn't trust a motor or tans that wasn't leaking a little.

cadillackid · 12-28-2016, 07:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brad_SwiftFur

Don't know how active this thread is, but ...

'87 IH with 9.0L engine and Allison Auto (not sure of model; I believe it was converted from a manual). Backup lights inoperative (have not done extensive diagnostic on them yet).

Dash was "dark"; removed it to replace bulbs. Some of which light up now (all did prior to re-installation). The dash has the flimsy Mylar printed circuit sheet ... and the voltage gauge stopped working after the re-install...

I also have the mechanical speedometer. If I redo the gauge cluster, I would like to convert it to an electronic version.

you could probably use a Pre-95 dash cluster in your bus.. or one from a mechanical post-95 engine..

the gauges in the T-444E / DT-466E utilize a communications link from the computer to the cluster so you dont want one of those..

you may have to add some senders to the engine unless you already have all the gauges...

the tach uses a Crank position sensor on the flywheel.. not sure if the 9L supports that?, the MPH could be an electronic sensor put on the allison transmission in place of the cable.. dip-switches are used ot set up your speed custom to your rear gears, tires, etc...

Volts is easy, fuel is likely just connect the fuel wires to the new panel. I believe the senders on IH are the same...

oil Pressure should also be a matter of connecting the existing sender to the new panel.

air is mechanical even on the 90+ panels..
air pressure alarm is a simple switch closure so thats an easy connection.

the electronic panels arent without their issues though.. bad solder joints on the connectors are common.. I had to fix them on BOTH of my busses.. its not difficult as long as you are OK with touching up solder joints with a fine tip soldering iron.. so far so good on both of mine, no issues..

-Christopher

Brad_SwiftFur · 12-28-2016, 09:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cadillackid

you could probably use a Pre-95 dash cluster in your bus.. or one from a mechanical post-95 engine..

the gauges in the T-444E / DT-466E utilize a communications link from the computer to the cluster so you dont want one of those..

you may have to add some senders to the engine unless you already have all the gauges...

the tach uses a Crank position sensor on the flywheel.. not sure if the 9L supports that?, the MPH could be an electronic sensor put on the allison transmission in place of the cable.. dip-switches are used ot set up your speed custom to your rear gears, tires, etc...

Volts is easy, fuel is likely just connect the fuel wires to the new panel. I believe the senders on IH are the same...

oil Pressure should also be a matter of connecting the existing sender to the new panel.

air is mechanical even on the 90+ panels..
air pressure alarm is a simple switch closure so thats an easy connection.

the electronic panels arent without their issues though.. bad solder joints on the connectors are common.. I had to fix them on BOTH of my busses.. its not difficult as long as you are OK with touching up solder joints with a fine tip soldering iron.. so far so good on both of mine, no issues..

-Christopher

As it is now, I have coolant temp (electric), oil pressure (electric, new sending unit), voltage, tach (electronic), speedo (mechanical), fuel and (something-else?). It has hydraulic brakes, so no air pressure to worry about.

First things first. I need an electronic sensor to replace the cable on the transmission, or something appropriate. Part numbers or links would be very helpful.

I'm thinking the voltage gauge stopped working because connection isn't complete between the wiring harness and the gauge ... either a bad connection to the Mylar sheet, a bad connection at the gauge, or a bad circuit trace in the sheet. The same is probably true for the lights that worked but now don't. I could probably break out my soldering equipment and solder in some wires to bypass the Mylar sheet, but ...

Assuming I find the necessary hardware to attach to the transmission, I need to replace the mechanical speedo with an electronic one. Clearly IH instrument clusters aren't exactly the most robust design. At what point would it make sense to buy aftermarket gauges and build a cluster from scratch? A sheet of brushed aluminum would do the trick; the dashboard isn't exactly highly exotic. I could probably salvage a cluster from a wrecked IH road tractor, the panel probably wouldn't fit but I'm guessing the gauges (electrically speaking) would interchange perfectly.

I would need at least 5 indicator lights ... 2 red for the brakes (parking, and low hydraulic pressure), 1 for high-beam, 2 for turn signals.

It would be nice to have low oil pressure and over temperature alerts. Auto shutdown isn't currently an option since the engine has a manual kill knob (but I don't expect to leave it idling unattended).

At what point did IH abandon use of the Mylar sheet? Do the soldered panels interchange with the older plug(s)? (I actually have 2, the tach plugs in separately) Any other suggestions I may have overlooked?

Tango · 12-28-2016, 11:34 PM

GPS makes for a simple speedo no matter what the bus.

Yellow_Submarine · 12-29-2016, 02:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Carytowncat

Submarine,

I wouldn't trust a motor or tans that wasn't leaking a little.

It is only leaking a little, like a drop every 10-20 seconds. Should I mess with it? Itsy first Diesel. I don't really have much experience with tranissions, but I've been turning wrenches for 20 years.

Yellow_Submarine · 12-29-2016, 02:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Booyah45828

Submarine, that is just an inspection plate for the torque converter. If you have fluid coming out of there it is either the front seal, torque converter bushing is worn, or the pump to case gasket is leaking. All of which require removal of the trans.

Swift,
Not really sure what you're asking.

So does that mean it's not leaking from the plate? I'm really good with puzzles and talking things apart and putting them back together. How hard is this fix? Is it worth doing the trans? It leaks about a drop every 10-20 seconds.

cadillackid · 12-29-2016, 06:45 AM

brad, the 90-up dont haver ther mylar sheet.. its a hard board, the connectors are different, the solder joints that go bad on the later panels are the ones where the connectors go into the board itself.. to me it looks like they had lack of even solder on their machine.. the one in my 2000 the solder joints had very little solder so they cracked under the pressure of the wiring harnesses.. I touched up the joints on the connectors, replaced all my bulbs and done, no trouble since..

on my 1991, it looked like someone was working under the dash and yanked pretty good on the harness and actually cracked the board.. so I jumped across 2 broken traces, replaced all the bulbs and done.

you could easily build a custom panel for it.. im thinking if I call the dealer with the VIN on my 1991 for a speed sensor that it might just fit your transmission? im guessing you have a 545? they didnt change much in those years..

-Christopher

Booyah45828 · 12-29-2016, 10:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yellow_Submarine

So does that mean it's not leaking from the plate? I'm really good with puzzles and talking things apart and putting them back together. How hard is this fix? Is it worth doing the trans? It leaks about a drop every 10-20 seconds.

No, that plate is an inspection cover that shouldn't have fluid above it, only air and a torque converter. Like I said, to fix requires transmission removal. If you're comfortable with that and have the tools, then it's easy. If you're lacking, then it is hard. Drop isn't a very good term. How much do you have to add to it during a trip? a quart per thousand miles isn't much, a quart per block is quite a bit.

Yellow_Submarine · 12-29-2016, 02:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Booyah45828

No, that plate is an inspection cover that shouldn't have fluid above it, only air and a torque converter. Like I said, to fix requires transmission removal. If you're comfortable with that and have the tools, then it's easy. If you're lacking, then it is hard. Drop isn't a very good term. How much do you have to add to it during a trip? a quart per thousand miles isn't much, a quart per block is quite a bit.

Well, I haven't driven it anywhere yet except home and around the block. Maybe I'll wait till I know how much it's leaking before I take it apart.

SashaRosen · 03-26-2017, 02:19 PM

If i remove the inner "skin" of metal how much does it affect the structural integrity of the bus? We have leaks and want to repair them from under the roof but the ceiling is in the way. If we pull all the metal off inside we may not be able to put something in its place before we jave to drive across the country (nowhere good to park here). Any thoughts? Thanks in advance!

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