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Old 08-29-2015, 06:48 PM   #1
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Manual Torque Specs Wrong

I'm pretty much overhauling my engine. When we went to torque the connecting rod bolts, the manual said to go to 130ft. lbs. That seemed like a lot for these lil bolts, but the manual mentioned this spec many times.

Started torquing, bolt started stretching. It might be too late and we might have to remove the head again to replace the connecting rod bolts. UGH.

Looked online, and according to agkits specs the torque is 80 ft. lbs!

On my DT360 the connecting rod bearings meet horizontally parallel to the floor. In the manual they are diagonal. Does anyone else know which way the rods are on their DT360? I'm wondering if someone in the past replaced the connecting rods with a different style.
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Old 08-29-2015, 07:31 PM   #2
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You do NOT need to remove the head. just drive out 1 bolt at a time with the piston at BDC.
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Old 08-29-2015, 08:36 PM   #3
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Since only one set of bolts was over tightened, we counted how many times the nut had to spin to get to 80 ft lbs on one of the not-yet-tightened rod bolts. Then we took the overtightened one loose and counted how many times the nut spun around to get it back to 80. They ended up being the same, so we're gonna say the bolt wasn't stretched much. So we're just gonna leave it as is.

Thanks for the info, though! It was a very scary thought after all the work putting this back together.
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Old 08-29-2015, 09:51 PM   #4
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Do NOT reuse the bolt!!!!! The amount of bolt stretch is what makes the clamping force-not how "tight" something is. If the bolt has stretched any more than was engineered in, its junk.
I built race engines professionally for many years. All the rod bolts are torqued + measured for overall stretch. The stretch number is more importiant that the amount of torque on the wrench getting there. ( a quote from ARP-maker of the rod bolts- "I don't care if you use a monkey wrench + peanut butter as lube-the only thing that matters is the stretch number.") On serious engine builds, you log the length of the bolt + keep track of it. Replacement needed if they gain .002. If you went over spec by 50 lbs., you might have tweeked it.
As said before- you dont have to pull the head-just the pan+ turn the crank to a good position. For the couple of buck a rod bolt would cost, I wouldn't risk it.
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Old 08-29-2015, 11:54 PM   #5
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What he said, do not re use an over tightened rod bolt. Even if there is the slightest question it is junk.
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Old 08-30-2015, 01:49 AM   #6
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Yeah we've since decided to replace it. Any idea where we can find rod bolts without having to order them? We're hoping to have it all back together and running tomorrow. All that's left is the exhaust manifold and oil pan, besides replacing those two rod bolts.
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Old 08-30-2015, 07:40 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onenationundergoat View Post
Yeah we've since decided to replace it. Any idea where we can find rod bolts without having to order them? We're hoping to have it all back together and running tomorrow. All that's left is the exhaust manifold and oil pan, besides replacing those two rod bolts.
Wishing yall the best!

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Old 08-30-2015, 08:24 AM   #8
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goat dude, you really should find a mechanic to help you. when rebuilding an engine, rods are torqued before head is installed.
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Old 08-30-2015, 08:37 AM   #9
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goat dude, you really should find a mechanic to help you. when rebuilding an engine, rods are torqued before head is installed.
Wow... you are just one big ray of sunshine aren't you...
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Old 08-30-2015, 10:46 AM   #10
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The 11th commandment

An over-torqued bolt is already half broke!
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