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Old 07-04-2016, 02:26 PM   #11
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interesting .. the stuff I used is called FleetCharge ..

but i thought I needed nitrite for the wet sleeves.. fleetcharge has nitrites and the SCA mixed in,. you say in your othert thread that you dont want nitrites??

see this is the confusing info i get...

so theres finalcharge and fleetcharge... I watched their video and still a bit unsure.. but sounds like FinalCharge is the one I really should run? of course i cant find any info about it from the OEM as the DT-360 was out of production before eiother of those 2 products were created..

so it sort of sounds like fleetcharge is SCA pre-charged but still needs tested and topped off with SCA? or if I always top off my coolant with fleetcharge when I lose or evaporate some im fine?

FinalCHarge prevents corrosion and cavitation in other ways and requires testing with their simple strips ?(ph I guess?). but no instructions were noted in the video if I was out of spec or Failed their strips...

it appears both are compatible with the existing green coolant .. though ive resigned to the fact im going to have to flush anyway... and will do it before I re-connect my heating loops back up so im good to go..

any idea the best way to flush ? do i just drain as much coolant as I can then run water into a point say at the bleed tube and circulate tap water through the whole engine.. let it drain as far as it can.. then add pure coolant with no mix and test for temperature after im full and running?

I dont see how you can drain all of the coolant out unless you really tear things apart...

-Christopher
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Old 07-04-2016, 02:51 PM   #12
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Quite a while back I saw where someone plugged an ordinary garden hose barbed female fitting into the far end of their rear heater hose. With all the valves open and both radiator hoses disconnected, he ran clean water through the system for about twenty minutes. The heater hose will feed back into and flush the block. He then reversed the flow to run from the upper block inlet and flushed it the other way with the lower connection plugged with a rag. Then he opened the drain on the radiator and ran clean water through it for a similar amount of time.

The only bad thing was all the coolant that wound up on the ground.

BTW...it is both attractive and poisonous to dogs & cats, so be advised.
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Old 07-04-2016, 02:54 PM   #13
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I bought one of these for cars and have done will with it: https://smile.amazon.com/UView-55000...dp/B0002SRH5G/

Have no idea how well it would work on a bus. Might be best off "simply" removing plugs and the like. As for the flush water itself, I use the 97 cent gallons of distilled water from Wal-Mart.

I don't remember the research that lead me to FinalCharge, but I remember it stood out as the best.
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Old 07-04-2016, 02:59 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango View Post
Quite a while back I saw where someone plugged an ordinary garden hose barbed female fitting into the far end of their rear heater hose. With all the valves open and both radiator hoses disconnected, he ran clean water through the system for about twenty minutes. The heater hose will feed back into and flush the block. He then reversed the flow to run from the upper block inlet and flushed it the other way with the lower connection plugged with a rag. Then he opened the drain on the radiator and ran clean water through it for a similar amount of time.

The only bad thing was all the coolant that wound up on the ground.

BTW...it is both attractive and poisonous to dogs & cats, so be advised.
The garden hose approach is super convenient, but the problem there is that you get all the chlorine and minerals in the system. This is a huge problem here where our well water is extremely hard. I figure doing it 'right' with distilled water is cheap enough, though not as convenient.
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Old 07-04-2016, 03:05 PM   #15
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If the base of the coolant is the same between the pink and green then I would not worry to much. The days these engines were designed the main thing was frost protection. Later with the dissimilar materials , specifically aluminum heads and fancy head gasket more specific coolants and additives were developed.
Unless you are going to drive a 100000 miles a year the wear and tear on the engine because of bad coolant is going to be minimal.
Engines like the power stroke that had cylinder cavitation issues caused by the higher frequencies of the combustion.The coarse poor choice of cylinder wall thickness and other details forced them into additives to limit the effect.

I would just test or have your coolant tested and hear what they say before you inform them of your mixing experiment.

All in all, it is a lot better then no coolant or pure water.

Later J
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Old 07-04-2016, 03:21 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joeblack5 View Post
If the base of the coolant is the same between the pink and green then I would not worry to much. The days these engines were designed the main thing was frost protection. Later with the dissimilar materials , specifically aluminum heads and fancy head gasket more specific coolants and additives were developed.
Unless you are going to drive a 100000 miles a year the wear and tear on the engine because of bad coolant is going to be minimal.
Engines like the power stroke that had cylinder cavitation issues caused by the higher frequencies of the combustion.The coarse poor choice of cylinder wall thickness and other details forced them into additives to limit the effect.

I would just test or have your coolant tested and hear what they say before you inform them of your mixing experiment.

All in all, it is a lot better then no coolant or pure water.

Later J

isnt my DT-360 basically a PowerStroke? I know its a wetsleeve engine... but I thought it was similar to early version of the powerstroke...

-Christopher
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Old 07-04-2016, 03:33 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango View Post
Quite a while back I saw where someone plugged an ordinary garden hose barbed female fitting into the far end of their rear heater hose. With all the valves open and both radiator hoses disconnected, he ran clean water through the system for about twenty minutes. The heater hose will feed back into and flush the block. He then reversed the flow to run from the upper block inlet and flushed it the other way with the lower connection plugged with a rag. Then he opened the drain on the radiator and ran clean water through it for a similar amount of time.

The only bad thing was all the coolant that wound up on the ground.

BTW...it is both attractive and poisonous to dogs & cats, so be advised.
yeah hwne I lost some of my coolant on the ground the other day I ran the garden hose on the street for a good while to flush all of ut down to the storm drain 30 feet away for that very reason... my garden hose spigots are pretty strong as I ran 3/4 lines to them when I built the house... mainly so I could run 2 lawn sprinklers off of each spigot and still have good volume...


I like the idea of the distilled water... I can easily do that as I have a heater boost pump.. currently my front and rear heaters are dry because they are disconnected and drained until I put the new and improved driver console in so no worries on the heaters..

I have a heater boost pump under the hood that sucks from the block and normally feeds into the main heater loop.. I have that looped now so I just disconnect and use that pump to push the distilled water through the system and the coolant out.. I can catch it in 5 gallon buckets whiuch are easily taken to jiffy lube for disposal.. once it starts to run clear I'll just let it go on the ground and flush to the drai nwith the garden hose until it is pretty clear...

any idea of the total system capacity in the average skoolie? once I get my heaters hooked back up I'll test the freeze levels and such and can add water vs coolant at the proper level till I reach the desired amount...

I think I'll go with finalcharge it looks ot be one step up from the fleet-charge in there now...

I'll also change the filter.. i notice I have a coolant filter on mine.. that filter is new but I'll change it anyway anbd be fresh to go!...

is distilled water the same kind of water as what comes out of my central air conditioner unit at the house?

-Christopher
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Old 07-04-2016, 03:33 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango View Post
Quite a while back I saw where someone plugged an ordinary garden hose barbed female fitting into the far end of their rear heater hose. With all the valves open and both radiator hoses disconnected, he ran clean water through the system for about twenty minutes. The heater hose will feed back into and flush the block. He then reversed the flow to run from the upper block inlet and flushed it the other way with the lower connection plugged with a rag. Then he opened the drain on the radiator and ran clean water through it for a similar amount of time.

The only bad thing was all the coolant that wound up on the ground.

BTW...it is both attractive and poisonous to dogs & cats, so be advised.
Please, please, please, do NOT drain coolant onto the ground, ever, at all. Coolant kills animals. Some years ago one of my cats walked through some spilled coolant, licked her paws clean, then died a few days later of acute kidney failure. Coolant is a deadly poison, and must be treated accordingly.

Thank you, John
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Old 07-04-2016, 03:36 PM   #19
Skoolie
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
isnt my DT-360 basically a PowerStroke? I know its a wetsleeve engine... but I thought it was similar to early version of the powerstroke...

-Christopher
I think that's the T444 engine. The DT-360 sleeves will be destroyed in short order if one does not have the proper components in their coolant. Further, the newer coolants last longer and are less hard on the components of the cooling system in general. It is far more than frost protection and mixed-metal compatibility going on.
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Old 07-04-2016, 03:40 PM   #20
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poison, it tastes sweet. copy that , do it right or not at all.
If a Dt 360 is somewhat a power stroke 7.3 then get a DT 360 test strip and see if the coolant complies.
happy 4 of july
Later j
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