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Old 02-10-2017, 03:36 PM   #1
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Removed heaters - now DT466E overheats in 2 miles

Hello, got a bit of a problem.

I removed my 2 rear heaters and looped the lines at the driver's heater core. I topped off the coolant and parked it on a hill to try and bleed any air out of the system. I then took it for a quick test drive. I could watch the temp needle climb to 210 as I accelerated. Not even 2 miles down the road the alarm came on and the temperature rose to 235 before I was able to pull over safely.

Here's what I know:
- Top and bottom rad hoses are hot. Top started out hotter than the bottom, then they both got REALLY hot with no temp difference.
- 2 hose valves are open on the coolant lines that lead to the heater cores.
- Coolant is flowing through the rear heater bypass I created (as evidenced by a leak I fixed) but this coolant never gets hot. Even with the engine overheated, the coolant lines are stone cold.
- Nothing else has been done to the engine or supporting systems since I parked it to start the conversion.
- I started the bus once after some electrical work and let it idle for a few minutes. I did NOT have the heater hoses looped at this time. When I shut the bus down I could hear some gurgling for a few seconds through the open hose.

- Do I maybe have an air lock in the system? How else can I troubleshoot this?

Thanks!
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Old 02-10-2017, 07:14 PM   #2
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some thoughts

Howdy! I'm one step behind you (just pulled my heaters and rerouted the lines), but haven't refilled with coolant yet. In my "research" (lots of YouTube videos), it looks like you've gotta keep adding coolant after cutting lines and draining anything. Air will get trapped in the system. So maybe that's the issue?

Other than that, I'm wondering if your loop/reroute has a kink or something?
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Old 02-10-2017, 07:16 PM   #3
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(one more half-baked thought)

Did you start it up and keep adding coolant, while running, until the radiator was topped off? That's what all my YouTube idols were doing
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Old 02-11-2017, 12:58 AM   #4
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It sounds as if you have a vapor lock in the system that is not allowing the coolant to flow freely through the whole system.

When you broke into the system a lot of coolant that was in the system that was not eliminated most likely leaked out leaving you with air pockets.

Parking on a hill will help but opening bleeders on heater cores will work a lot faster.

You don't mention how much coolant you had to add after you got the loop all hooked up. If you didn't add at least 2 gallons of coolant I would say you are not close to full of coolant.

You may have to start at the engine and crack open the heater coolant lines at every joint and heater core along the line in order to get all of the air out.

It could be worse. I had to do a total system drain to fix a major leak in my Setra motorcoach. IIRC it took 46 gallons to fill it all back up. There were 22 different heater/defroster units that I had to bleed the air out of before I finally was able to get hot water up to the driver.

Good luck!
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Old 02-12-2017, 05:27 PM   #5
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Bleeding Instructions? Or Hints?

Soooo, you said you bleeded the heaters. I'm guessing you mean you got the air out of the lines. How did you bleed them? Simple access valves or something?
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Old 02-12-2017, 06:00 PM   #6
Mini-Skoolie
 
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I found one bleeder valve at the bottom of the radiator. I opened it and let it drain into a bucket with the engine running for about 10 minutes. Didn't see any bubbles or spurts out the valve. Can't locate any other valves. Currently looking for a manual for my bus and engine.
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Old 02-12-2017, 06:01 PM   #7
Mini-Skoolie
 
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I topped off the tank on the driver's side of the bus, but it doesn't seem to be entering the system. Just sitting in the tank
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Old 02-12-2017, 07:18 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lowkee View Post
I found one bleeder valve at the bottom of the radiator. I opened it and let it drain into a bucket with the engine running for about 10 minutes. Didn't see any bubbles or spurts out the valve. Can't locate any other valves. Currently looking for a manual for my bus and engine.

Uhh, at the bottom of the radiator?

That's not a bleeder, that's a drain.
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Old 02-13-2017, 03:08 AM   #9
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Look at the heater cores. Somewhere on one side or the other there will be a bleeder screw. It will look like a bolt head, most likely a 7/16", with a screw head in the center. Loosen the bolt head a little and then screw the head of the screw out a little. Air and water should come out.
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Old 02-13-2017, 07:38 AM   #10
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got it!

Okay, that's super helpful. I'm gonna explore ... thanks!
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