swap 1977 dt466 for a 1993 dt466 without changing anything else

[Buster13]

Hi i have a 1977 international dt466 that sat with water (no coolant) in it for a couple winters. I started it up and it water started gushing out of the side of engine. I was wondering how hard it was to swap engines with a newer 1993 dt466 or if it was even possible without changing transmission or anything?

[joeblack5]

although the engine might be ruined you might want to check if it is frost plug that came out.

good luck
later j

[jjhwick119]

yea, that sounds like it could just be the freeze plugs.Not sure if the motor would be ruined or if its fixable. dont know enough about motors

[Tango]

If a freeze plug blew out and it was not run until overheated, should be a cheap and easy fix. On the other hand, if it froze hard enough to blow a freeze plug...there could be other issues like a cracked head or block. But it is certainly worth examining to determine just where things stand.

[bluebird90]

The 77 and 93 are almost identical. As long as the 93 isnt an HEUI engine you will have no problem swapping.

[Backwoods Wanderer]

From what I've heard, you'll want to verify what transmission the new engine was paired with so you don't run into bolt pattern issues during installation

[bluebird90]

All that would be necessary would be to swap flywheel housings

[bluebird90]

BTW the newer engine is the better engine, it has roller lifters and has more HP

[PNW_Steve]

A bit of caution is in order here.

DT466's were offered in a wide range of HP ratings. Make sure you don't exceed your transmissions capability. IE: 245hp in front of an AT545.

[Twigg]

Originally Posted by PNW_Steve

A bit of caution is in order here.

DT466's were offered in a wide range of HP ratings. Make sure you don't exceed your transmissions capability. IE: 245hp in front of an AT545.

245 hp is really pushing it for the AT545. Generally they were not fitted to any engine making over 210 hp.

The number you really need is the torque. The spec for transmissions is maximum input torque, and not hp.

[PNW_Steve]

Originally Posted by Twigg

245 hp is really pushing it for the AT545. Generally they were not fitted to any engine making over 210 hp.

The number you really need is the torque. The spec for transmissions is maximum input torque, and not hp.

That was my point. The high spec DT's, such as the 245hp, are not a good match for the 545.

[Buster13]

thanks yeah I checked and it is a long cylindrical tube near the bottom of engine that has a crack in it. My mechanic friend priced it and it's 1200 to replace it. Might as well replace whole engine for same price.

[cadillackid]

that long cylindrical tube is the oil cooler and is readily available. if you swapo engines, you may beed tio plumb slightly differently as the 1977 will have a rotary pump and the 93 will have an inline pump.. the fuel line plumbing is similar but not identical from what i understand. you may need to adjust the fuel screws a bit. as your 77 wouldnt have had an after-cooler and your 93 will have been on a bus with one.. (might want to take the whole front assemble off the donor so you can have the after-cooler..

as mentioned if your 1977 had a an AT540 transmission on it there will be an adapter ring on the flywheel housing to adapt the emngine from SAE2 to SAE3.. that whole housing and hub etc are swappable from one engine to the other..

but you might look at getting a used oil cooler before replacing the whole engine.

example.. a new one.
Oil Cooler - DT466
-Christopher

[joeblack5]

$$1200, not sure where you are looking but I see them from 150 to 450.

later J

[Buster13]

Thanks guys, caddilackid showed me an example and that is definitely the part with the crack in it. I think my mechanic friend got his price from the local napa store. Its definitely worth a try to replace. Question though is if that part is an oil cooler why is there water in it? Is there water and oil? Also if it cracked, I wonder if there is more damage likely somewhere else? Thanks again for the info!

[Buster13]

Thanks for showing me an example and that is definitely the part with the crack in it. I think my mechanic friend got his price from the local napa store. Its definitely worth a try to replace. Question though is if that part is an oil cooler why is there water in it? Is there water and oil? Also if it cracked, I wonder if there is more damage likely somewhere else? Thanks again for the info!

[cadillackid]

Originally Posted by Buster13

Thanks for showing me an example and that is definitely the part with the crack in it. I think my mechanic friend got his price from the local napa store. Its definitely worth a try to replace. Question though is if that part is an oil cooler why is there water in it? Is there water and oil? Also if it cracked, I wonder if there is more damage likely somewhere else? Thanks again for the info!

its an oil to water cooler. the coolant goes through the oil cooler in one part and the oil in another.. typically the oil cooler sees the coolant early on in the cooling cycle.. the coolant cools the oil..

since it hangs out the side of the engine it is one of the first things to freeze when it gets cold.. I cant say about other damage, how cold did it get and how was it just pure water? what prompted there to be no coolant? was there a leak before the bus was parked?

if it was just pure water all this time im guessing you had some brown nasty looking water pouring out of the oil cooler? if there was even a little coolant in the mix it substantially lowers the temperature at which you will see a complete freeze up inside the block that would damage internals..

if this bus is a new acquisition to you, maybe the oil cooler had already cracked before the previous owner parked it?

if in fact the oil cooler froze and broke id be concerned about other near-externals.. radiator, water pump, air compressor head, copper heater tubing..

ultimately if you popped the head off the engine from a completely frozen internal it would run pretty bad when you started it.

what would I do? id probably measure the current freeze temperature of the water, and then knowing how long and how cold it got. if temperatures had been way below that freeze point for anything more than a few hours, id be inclined to swap the engine out to a reman. (or good used). I drive my busses sometimes 1000 miles at a time ..

if I was totally cash strapped id start looking and emailing the folks at vanderhaags, truckpartsinventory. etc to see if a good used oil cooler could be had on the cheap. put the engine back together and drive it.. checking for coolant leaks and signs of coolant in the oil....

-Christopher

[joeblack5]

I think I would remove the oil cooler and plug / plate the water in and outlet.
Then pressurize the radiator and see if it holds pressure and listen / look for other leaks. Probably check for water in the oil and rotate the engine by hand and see if you have any water lock in the engine.

good luck,
later J

[Buster13]

thanks for the info. I'll check them out.

[sportyrick]

If your block isn't cracked I'd go play the lottery.