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Old 07-12-2019, 07:00 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Rogue1bus View Post
What synthetic fluid do you use? I was trying to find an amsoil product but couldn’t figure out which one if any would work.
Castrol TranSynd
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Old 07-12-2019, 08:48 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Rogue1bus View Post
What synthetic fluid do you use? I was trying to find an amsoil product but couldnít figure out which one if any would work.
Might want to call the Amsoil tech line
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Old 07-15-2019, 10:28 AM   #13
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Amsoil Torque-Drive is Allison TES-295 compatible. I think maybe Iíll put that in till I do my 1000 transmission swap.

Someone said in another thread, to get all the old fluid out of the torque converter you drain it, start the bus then put it in gear for a few seconds the turn it off or something?
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Old 07-15-2019, 10:34 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by Ronnie View Post
That reminds me of the 392 and allison that was in my bus, always hot and fluid everywhere. Sooo glad I took that out, and put a 345 and manual trans in. I can stand on it all day and never see the temp go up at all, even pulling trailers in the mountains. I am hoping yours was a one time only thing.

Ronnie! thats whats in my Superior.. 392 and AT540..



I know the 345 is a trooper we had them in scouts growing up till we got diesel scouts.. but I really Love the way that 392 in the loadstar runs..
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Old 07-15-2019, 11:01 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
Ronnie! thats whats in my Superior.. 392 and AT540..



I know the 345 is a trooper we had them in scouts growing up till we got diesel scouts.. but I really Love the way that 392 in the loadstar runs..

You thank goodness have one slightly newer then mine and they figured out the cooling by then, should be a great motor for you.
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Old 07-16-2019, 07:14 AM   #16
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Chassis: Ford E350 Cutaway
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rogue1bus View Post
...

Someone said in another thread, to get all the old fluid out of the torque converter you drain it, start the bus then put it in gear for a few seconds the turn it off or something?
I flushed the old oil out the following way:
  • Drained old oil from the transmission pan and filled the same amount of new fluid back in.
  • Disconnected the return line from the oil cooler and put it in a bucket. Ran the truck for a few seconds until about one gallon of old fluid had been pumped out.
  • Put a gallon of fresh fluid in transmission.
  • Repeated pumping old oil from return line and refilling with new until fresh oil came out of the return line.
  • Re-connected line and filled transmission to level indicated on dipstick (while idling at normal operating temperature).
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Old 08-20-2019, 09:50 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
if you are reaching 220-225 and like the last post, not hearing the fan roar then I would be checking the fan clutch... spiking it to 220-225 wont hurt it.. if the alarm starts ringing... (it will be a beep-----beep-----beep--) about ever second and the oil/water (red light) will be lit.. then you need to think about cooling it down..

if you are hauling pretty good.. reduce power and RPMs and it should go away in aminute or so.. you really want to avoid shutting it down unless it continues to spike or you know an event occured like you have steam or coolant smell.. where you arent going to be able to cool it down.. otherwise.. idling drops these things pretty quickly..



Viscous fan clutches are notorious for going bad.. and the split radiator / turbo cooler sometimes makes the fans come on a little late anyway... but if it working you'll hear it.... it slowly speeds up to a bit of a roar.. then slowly speeds down as the engine heats and cools..
-Christopher


Didnít you put a manual override switch to engage your fan clutch? Helping to increase engine drag while descending etc?

Iím trying to add a switch but I canít figure out which wire is positive or neg. The meter shows no voltage from either wire at idle. Kestrel 308.jpg
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Old 08-20-2019, 09:59 AM   #18
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the factory clutch is set up differently than a retro-fit one. since mine is retrofit im using a Dakota Digital Fan computer which uses its own temp sensor.. the override switch goes to an input on that controller which calls for the fan..


in a factory navistar config, a 2 pin connector from the ECM controls a normally closed relay.. so that it puts power to said relay when fan is OFF and drops power when fan kicks on.. when i did mine I fidnt think i had the ECM connector at all.. and later found it but had already gone the route of using a separate controller..



the main factory method for clutch override was by way of an A/C demand switch (the ECM supports this for the truck-cab body where it would have an A/C condensor up front).. but i dont think those pins are wired out o nthe ECM of a bus chassis..
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Old 08-20-2019, 11:08 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
the factory clutch is set up differently than a retro-fit one. since mine is retrofit im using a Dakota Digital Fan computer which uses its own temp sensor.. the override switch goes to an input on that controller which calls for the fan..


in a factory navistar config, a 2 pin connector from the ECM controls a normally closed relay.. so that it puts power to said relay when fan is OFF and drops power when fan kicks on.. when i did mine I fidnt think i had the ECM connector at all.. and later found it but had already gone the route of using a separate controller..



the main factory method for clutch override was by way of an A/C demand switch (the ECM supports this for the truck-cab body where it would have an A/C condensor up front).. but i dont think those pins are wired out o nthe ECM of a bus chassis..


I was thinking of just adding a relay to supply 12v current to the clutch via manual switch... but I donít know the polarity. I donít think having 12v coming in from the switch and Ecm would cause an issue but I will fuse the new relay to be safe.
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Old 08-20-2019, 11:42 AM   #20
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When the fan is spinning one wire will be positive and one will be negative.
Use a DPDT relay and put the NC contacts on it toward the OEM leads and use the NO contacts for your pos and meg ..

This way you should totally isolate the ECM and it’s relay when you are on overrode mode. You may toss a code and turn on the Engine light, however I think the ECM only looks that the factory relay exists and not the clutch itself. Which it still will since you would wire in past the factory bits
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