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Old 08-11-2016, 06:26 PM   #11
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Join Date: May 2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jolly Roger View Post
I have an 8.2 with 545 and 6.5 gears.
I want to do a gear change real bad but my rear end from what I can find has been out of production for awhile and I can't find gears for it.
Everything suggested to get me to 55-65 range was in the 5 and high fours before I started burning up the 545.
What model of rear axle do you have? I might be open to a deal on my module with 5:38 gears ...

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Originally Posted by Jolly Roger View Post
Another option I have is going to taller tires which are supposed to help but once again I am not finding my Dayton split ring not rim. Currently I have 9r20 tubed rims and when I can find them I can go to 10r22.5 tires which should pick up some speed but the bus will bounce/dance around more because of the taller tires.
When you swap the rims, the 22.5's will *NOT* have a ring, they should be a direct, bolt-on replacement. Local junkyard sells these rims for like under $50 each. It'll give you a little more top end, I doubt you'll notice much more "bounce and dance".

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Originally Posted by Jolly Roger View Post
I wanted a garage to do mine because of warranty but the cheapest I have found is 3000$ if I buy the gears and bring them the hog head??
If I have to do all of that in a gravel driveway and all of the neighbors kids running around daily (6-10) I can change the gears myself. I just wanted the warranty from a shop so I didn't have to worry about setting the spacing,lashing,backlash and I am on the side of the road somewhere 6-months later cause I mucked up.
My quote was for me removing the module, and the shop doing the actual gear install, spacing, setting, etc. They give a warranty. For the $3000 you are saying, I should hope that is swapping the entire rear end for a rebuilt one ... my usual shop occasionally does these for big rigs, and that's about the going rate for a complete, rebuilt axle swap.

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Originally Posted by Jolly Roger View Post
Brad SwiftFur
I don't know your engine but I have the same tranny I think?
It was an engine IH built in the late 70's and up through 1987 to compete with the 3208 Cat motor, a "poor man's diesel" for places that did not want to spend the extra on the DT466. Popular in school buses and many municipal vehicles, it was discontinued at the end of '87 because it could not meet '88 emissions, and was replaced by the 7.3 / DT444

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Originally Posted by Jolly Roger View Post
Is yours a 4-speed if so its the 545 without the lock up torque converter.
I think so. VIN pulls up a Spicer trans, but bus was previously owned by a church, so we think it was very likely retrofitted. I need to get a look at the trans ID plate to make sure.

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Originally Posted by Jolly Roger View Post
Everything I have heard was to leave the motor at its factory settings for longevity.
I plan to.

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Originally Posted by Jolly Roger View Post
The 545 has specific temp and speed ratings or your gonna be looking for a tranny next?
With the gears you stated for yours I think your weak point is the tranny not the rear gears.
That's why I wanted to ask before I committed to doing a gear swap.

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Originally Posted by Jolly Roger View Post
But that's just my opinion and some research knowledge from my lead sled (49-mph) build
I am just trying to get to 55-60 and your already there.
Wish you luck making 70 maybe we can wave at each other when your passing me.
Good luck
Let me know what axle you have ....
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Old 08-11-2016, 06:33 PM   #12
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My only worry with swapping the transmission is drive shaft length. I just was on the phone earlier with International. The parts guy looked up my rear axle I have a dayna 190 with 5.38 gear ratio. I am going to look for a ring and pinion set for a direct swap. Depending on parts availability is what gear ratio I will end up with. if I can't find the parts. I will have to change my plans. Now that I have the axle information I can see what the gear options were for that axle and find part numbers for the ring and pinion sets. By far the cheapest route is a ring and pinion set with an overhaul kit.

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Old 08-11-2016, 06:45 PM   #13
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If I'm going to consider a trans swap, I'm going to find manual. Somewhere there has to be all the necessary hardware to revert it back to a manual. One with an overdrive would be sweet ... and convert the speedometer to electronic.
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Old 08-11-2016, 06:50 PM   #14
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Ring and pinion sets are available. So far I have found 4.11 up to 5.38. has anyone here changed their gear ratios with the 545? I am curious how the transmission acts on hills with a higher geared rear end.

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Old 08-11-2016, 07:03 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryannmelis View Post
Ring and pinion sets are available. So far I have found 4.11 up to 5.38. has anyone here changed their gear ratios with the 545? I am curious how the transmission acts on hills with a higher geared rear end.

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Our 545 gets us up any hill (Rockies and Appalachians many times) with no issues. Underpowered and slow for sure (20mph), but very reliable and no complaining. Unless it's a really big hill I usually only have to go in 3rd (~2000-2200rpm). Rarely in 2nd and almost never in 1st.
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Old 08-11-2016, 07:05 PM   #16
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do you have the R D 3 2 1 shifter or another type? how is your mileage?

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Old 08-11-2016, 07:07 PM   #17
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yeah it's automatic RD321. we've never been able to exactly calculate the mileage because out odometer and speedometer are wrong due to the 4.78 gear change, but our best estimate is 10mpg. Been driving it for around 15,000 miles.
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Old 08-11-2016, 07:18 PM   #18
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food for thought Thomas.com has all the gear ratios.

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Old 08-12-2016, 01:28 PM   #19
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Brad
I have an eato rear end
Msg model 16s
Model 16121
Head 121523
I haven't found anything to reference these numbers to?
And that price was with me buying the new ring and pinion and bring them the head only?
I thought it was ridiculous but still haven't found the gears and haven't found any rims around here yet.
I did find some on eBay for 60$ a piece but they were in Illinois .
Thanks
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Old 08-12-2016, 01:36 PM   #20
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you are a 9R20 and want to go to a 10R22.5? doesnt that mean the star hub will be the wrong size on the daytons?

I went from 10R22.5 to an 11R22.5 and went from Load range F to load range H which is a tad bit harder ride although ive got air ride rear so that helps..

I went up in load because im now with very standard truck tires.. uniroyals, so very easy to match and replace if I damage one...

im on daytons but they are tubeless and not a split rim..

the big issue with split rims is that very few shops will touch them and no mobile service will that I know of...

dayton rims are still somewhat common on older dump trucks still in service in many areas so shops know how to work on and align daytons, just not split rim.

-Christopher
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