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Old 10-10-2018, 12:12 PM   #21
Bus Geek
 
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
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Year: 1999
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Chassis: Freighliner FS65
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Originally Posted by Stormravyn View Post
Thank you, that does make sense. So I am looking for an intermittent duty starter solenoid. Now all I have to do is tell the guy to carefully jump between the Positive pole and the Starter pole and see if she starts then. The back door was wide open, so that thing can't be the Interlock. And remind him of course, to do it with the key ON, not in start, lol. Should I pick up a couple more of them to be safe?
Does the "guy" have a multimeter? It takes about 5 seconds to tell if one is bad if you have a mulitmeter.

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Old 10-11-2018, 10:23 PM   #22
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 13
Year: 98
Engine: D466E
Yeah I don't know lol. It was down by the barn that day and he had no tools handy. Not sure what he's done since, if anything. If I go back up there soon, I'll take my tools with me; I've got one and it needs to be running again so I can bring it home and not have to drive so far.
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Old 10-17-2018, 06:44 PM   #23
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: May 2015
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One solenoid on my bus rattles when the rear door isn’t closed.
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Old 10-18-2018, 03:03 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stormravyn View Post
Hi guys, I'm new here, but have been lurking for a while. Now I seem to need advice lol. I am buying a 1997, Thomas International 3800 with a DT466E diesel in it. This bus has been running fine, then we made the long trek up to her yesterday and she wouldn't start.

Now, I know WHERE the problem is, as my Dad had an old Satellite Sebring that this thing would go out on him every few months, so he kept a handful of them in his glove compartment lol. It's cheap, but without it, the vehicle won't start and you think you have a bad battery connection or even a low battery. But I can't remember the name! So here is WHERE it is

Driver's side, side access panel beneath the driver's side window. LOOKS like a starter relay, ignition relay, etc but all my searches are saying those are on the engine, firewall, etc and I cannot for the life of me find ANY diagrams, pictures, and labels that tell me not only what all those switches DO, but also the other components under there. The solenoid should be on the starter itself, correct?

What it DOES (and the battery is charged) is... when you turn the key to start it, you hear a ...not really a click as this is louder, deeper and meatier than a girly little click lol. It's more like a clunk but comes EXACTLY from that round, metal device attacked under the access panel that has... oh God if I can remember... 2 red and a black wire (I THINK) going to it. You can FEEL the click/clunk sound every time you turn the key. It's frustrating to not remember what it is. It's an easy switch and cheap, but I have to remember what it is called, as I in no way trust auto parts stores. I may be female but I drove trucks coast to coast over 20 years and always worked on my own cars and trucks etc and KNOW better than to assume they have a clue what you are talking about lol.

As an aside, I will mention that this mounts on its side, right up next to the outer wall, is maybe 6 inches in length, maybe 2, 2 1/2 inches across and the wires connect on the end facing the passenger area. So it attaches parallel with the outer wall of the bus.

Can anyone help, and does anyone know where to get a nice color picture of that access panel inside and out with everything labeled? Thank you all in advance. Her name is Zerah and she is to be our home, so I need to do this right.
Several people have identified the mystery part in question as a solenoid. Every solenoid will have a minimum of three wires, two of which will usually be much larger than the third.

The two big wires carry juice from the battery to whatever is being powered, whether it is the starter or the body or to a wheel chair lift. A solenoid is used whenever a large amount of juice is being stopped and started on a signal. Without a solenoid all of the juice would have to go through the switch which would require every switch to be heavy enough to carry the full load--an expensive option most vehicle OEM's won't do.

The smaller wire carries the signal from a switch to activate the circuit. Most of the time the signal comes from the key switch and needs relatively little juice to activate the electromagnet that will close the switch inside the solenoid to complete the circuit providing juice to the large user.

On many buses there will be a solenoid to operate the solenoid on the starter. The starter will look like a typical GM Delco-Remy starter but it will be much larger and will require a much larger starter solenoid to get the starter turning. By using a solenoid to power up the starter solenoid you are able use a very low power switch to turn on a high power switch that will turn on a really high power switch. The signal wire to the first solenoid will most likely be a 14 ga wire, the signal wire to the starter solenoid will most likely be a 4 ga wire, and the power wire to the starter will be 00 or 000 ga wire.

On the first solenoid the power side will always have power unless there is a battery disconnect switch somewhere in the system. If you turn on the key and lights and buzzers are going off the power side will have power whether the key is on or not. A starter solenoid signal wire will only have power when the key is in the start position. When the signal is activated you should have power on the powered side of the solenoid.

A test light is the best tool for figuring out what might be going on with your starter circuit. The light should light on the input side all the time. The light should light on the signal side whenever the key is in the correct position. The light should light on the output side whenever the key is in the correct position. If the light doesn't light up on any of the terminals you have a juice supply problem upstream between the battery and the solenoid--a broken wire or a blown fuse/circuit breaker. If you don't have juice at the signal wire the problem is upstream between the solenoid and the key switch--a broken wire, a wire loose on the terminal on the solenoid or key switch, or a bad switch. If you don't have power on the outlet side of the solenoid when the signal has juice then the solenoid is bad. If you do have juice downstream from the solenoid then you know the problem is between the solenoid and the starter.

To test your conclusions if you have juice to the input side use a jumper wire (don't ruin a screw driver trying to jump stuff on a bus--the amperage can really melt a screwdriver quickly) to the signal terminal. If it makes things work you know the problem is in the signal. If you jump across the solenoid from the input to the outlet side it should spin the starter without using the signal. This one you definitely want to use something besides a screwdriver as it has some serious amperage going through those big wires. If jumping across the input and output makes the starter spin then you know the signal isn't getting juice or the solenoid is bad. If jumping across the input and output doesn't work then you know the problem is downstream between the starter and the solenoid.

If you get juice going out of the output and the starter is not spinning then the problem is somewhere between the battery and the starter/starter solenoid.

Or it could be that the bus is somehow not in neutral and the neutral safety switch is not allowing a signal to go down to the starter solenoid to make the starter spin.

In other words, particularly if the transmission control is not an electronically controlled shifter, double check you really are in neutral.

Also, your bus may have emergency doors/exits that may have a safety switch that will not allow the starter to engage if the vandal/inside door locks are still locked.

Good luck and keep us posted as to your progress!
Good luck and let us know how you are proceeding.
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Old 10-18-2018, 10:11 AM   #25
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Great information!We have the same bus, while driving to an event I stopped at a store, when I went to go the bus wouldn’t go. The neutral lock out switch (located within the transmission) failed. I had to disconnect and jump the two wires together which told the electronics that the transmission was in Neutral.
Now my bus starts in ant gear but with 175 hp and airbrakes it doesn’t go anywhere unless you release the parking brake.
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Old 10-18-2018, 02:24 PM   #26
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 13
Year: 98
Engine: D466E
Wow so much information! That was indeed extremely informative, thank you. I'm dying to get it home where I have tools and a big flat space to work on it.

I DID finally get a picture of it though! Her husband sent the following, but just the close-up, so hopefully that's enough.

I did not know there can be a solenoid to allow action in the actual solenoid on the starter; I am thrilled to have learned something new!

The back door was open, btw as Mississippi is HOT even in October lol! It's an automatic as well. Not sure if that's a good thing or a bad thing. I can drive either, so that's not an issue.

Yes will definitely update and am going to be blogging once I get her home too:
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Old 10-18-2018, 02:25 PM   #27
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
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Engine: D466E
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Sy1...w?usp=drivesdk

Sorry guys, I keep posting image, but it never shows up. Give me a minute to figure this out please, lol.

Well hopefully that will work. No matter where I upload this picture, the image commands shows nothing. That link is my Google Drive.
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Old 10-18-2018, 03:07 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stormravyn View Post
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Sy1...w?usp=drivesdk

Sorry guys, I keep posting image, but it never shows up. Give me a minute to figure this out please, lol.

Well hopefully that will work. No matter where I upload this picture, the image commands shows nothing. That link is my Google Drive.
That is definitely a solenoid.

As to whether or not it is a continuous duty or intermittent duty I couldn't say without seeing how it is supposed to be used. Or what the part number is on it.

If it is in the starter circuit it most probably is an intermittent duty solenoid.

If it powers up only in the start position on the key switch then I would say intermittent duty. If it has power in the run position on the key switch then I would say it is a constant duty.

Before I started purchasing parts and throwing them at the bus I would first go through the diagnostic process to eliminate what be causing the no start issue. I would lean more towards a neutral safety switch or vandal lock safety switch keeping the juice from flowing than a bad solenoid.
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Old 10-18-2018, 07:00 PM   #29
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Chassis: Freighliner FS65
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Here's your pic-


LOOKS like a standard "bus solenoid". Does it say "white rodgers" on it? Any part numbers anywhere you can see?
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Old 10-18-2018, 07:14 PM   #30
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
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Year: 98
Engine: D466E
That's the picture I got from the guy who owns it...he's an hour and a half from me and I have no running vehicle so I'm stuck with what I get, but sorry of taking it off, the label looks like all the lettering is gone.
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Old 10-18-2018, 07:16 PM   #31
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
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Engine: D466E
If the guy lending me the money for it would hurry and get back into town, I swear I'd tow or home and do it myself lol.
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