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Old 04-17-2019, 12:02 PM   #1
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Wheel type

Google is useless for buses.
What type of rim is on my 07 Fe300?
I see there are several types of 22.5 rim.
Mount: Hub-Piloted; Dual Mounting
Mount: Hub-Piloted; Single Mounting
Mount: Stud-Piloted (Budd); Dual Mounting

I'd like to get some of those alluminum rims for it.
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Old 04-19-2019, 11:33 AM   #2
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I doubt anybody is going to be able to tell you for certain with the info you provided.

You'll have to identify it yourself by looking at what you have.

Or you could take it to a heavy tire shop and pay someone to do it for you.
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Old 04-19-2019, 12:28 PM   #3
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I am guessing 22.5 hub pilot metric rims for that model.
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Old 04-19-2019, 12:30 PM   #4
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If you have steel wheels it's not likely you will be able to convert to aluminum without changing the studs. The centers are much thicker. There should be numbers stamped on your rims to help identify them.
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Old 04-19-2019, 01:02 PM   #5
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A close up pic of your wheels could certainly help.
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Old 04-19-2019, 01:29 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CMORGANSKOOL View Post
Google is useless for buses.
What type of rim is on my 07 Fe300?
I see there are several types of 22.5 rim.
Mount: Hub-Piloted; Dual Mounting
Mount: Hub-Piloted; Single Mounting
Mount: Stud-Piloted (Budd); Dual Mounting

I'd like to get some of those alluminum rims for it.
All the IC buses I've owned and seen have stud piloted Accuride's. Post a pic!
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Old 04-19-2019, 01:31 PM   #7
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Does a photo from 20 yards help? Lol most recent pic I have.
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Old 04-19-2019, 01:33 PM   #8
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Nah not really any help. Need to see the studs and lugs.
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Old 04-19-2019, 01:46 PM   #9
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This is the best shot I can find.
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Old 04-19-2019, 02:52 PM   #10
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Here’s a better picture
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Old 04-19-2019, 03:29 PM   #11
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Hub piloted Budd type.
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Old 04-19-2019, 04:22 PM   #12
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"Piloting", when it comes to wheels, denotes "what centers the wheel in place".



You have hub piloted Budd's. Good as it gets. How to identify? Note the nuts have washers "made" onto them. The center of the hub has 4 "fingers" that position the wheel (some have 5 of 6). Aluminum wheels will fit with no trouble (but be advised they are thicker, so the studs may not be long enough. They can be replaced with longer ones.) The nuts *MUST* be tight, as the wheel can break off the "fingers" over a hard bump if not held firmly in place. (If this sounds like the voice of experience talking, that's because it is!)



Stud piloted wheels will not have washers on the nuts, which will have a cone shape that positions the wheel. This design places more weight/stress on a smaller surface area (hence the washers on the hub piloted type), and can lead to wheel cracking over time. In the rear, you'll have the expected nuts for the outer wheel, and special (but common) nut/bolts that hold the inner wheel separately.
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Old 04-19-2019, 05:44 PM   #13
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I'm told if going with Alcoa's, as long as you run the steel inner wheel with the Alcoa's on the outside, no stud change is needed. I see some say the rule is 3 to 7 threads showing outside the nut. Can anyone tell me that the exposed threads do anything at all and why one thread showing would be any different than 5-10-50 or 100?
I understand new studs run around $400.
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Old 04-19-2019, 07:42 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by o1marc View Post
I'm told if going with Alcoa's, as long as you run the steel inner wheel with the Alcoa's on the outside, no stud change is needed. I see some say the rule is 3 to 7 threads showing outside the nut. Can anyone tell me that the exposed threads do anything at all and why one thread showing would be any different than 5-10-50 or 100?
I understand new studs run around $400.

I believe that is correct. In fact, if memory serves me correctly (since I don't feel like digging through my copy of the FMCS regulations handbook) you may even have a nut not completely on the stud (it must engage 7 threads, I think), but I'd personally feel more comfortable if it was at least flush on the stud.


I haven't priced new studs but since you'd need 10 - per side - and they're probably around $20 each? Don't forget the labor to get 'em put on, if you're not doing it yourself.


Personally, I'd stick with one steel, one aluminum rim on each side in the back to avoid all the hassle. Also, don't forget the plastic spacer between them to prevent galvanic corrosion.


*Edit* Apparently my guess on the pricing is wrong, as I'm finding 'em for $2-3 each, but still figure for labor if needed.
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Old 04-19-2019, 08:00 PM   #15
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I believe that is correct. In fact, if memory serves me correctly (since I don't feel like digging through my copy of the FMCS regulations handbook) you may even have a nut not completely on the stud (it must engage 7 threads, I think), but I'd personally feel more comfortable if it was at least flush on the stud.


I haven't priced new studs but since you'd need 10 - per side - and they're probably around $20 each? Don't forget the labor to get 'em put on, if you're not doing it yourself.


Personally, I'd stick with one steel, one aluminum rim on each side in the back to avoid all the hassle. Also, don't forget the plastic spacer between them to prevent galvanic corrosion.


*Edit* Apparently my guess on the pricing is wrong, as I'm finding 'em for $2-3 each, but still figure for labor if needed.
..

Rule I've used for over 5 decades is you need the thickness of the stud in length of nut at a minimum. I hate dealing with stud changing, dealing with it right now on my Dakota. With the lowering control arm I'm using with the 15" wheel, it would scrub the wheel on the arm at full lock, wanting to slice the edge of the rim off. So I put a 1" spacer on and that corrected that scrub, but now the tire scrubs on the fender. Okay, lets try a 1/2" spacer. It's perfect spacing, but where the 1" spacer had 6 holes and 6 studs that bolted to the existing studs using the existing lug nuts and then the wheel bolts to the new studs. The 1/2" spacer is just a spacer with 6 holes that don't leave enough stud to get the nut on half way. So 12 new studs at around $3ea. and the not looking forward to the labor of swapping them out. So right now I took the BFH to the fender lip and it only scrubs on heavy bumps, but just against smooth metal and not a sharp edge.
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Old 04-19-2019, 10:16 PM   #16
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I have been watching this thread... I guess my question is why do you want aluminum wheels? just looks? if it is cosmetic, then you might have the budget for it. good for you. just curious is all. i'd love to see the after pics if you do get them
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Old 04-19-2019, 10:22 PM   #17
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I have been watching this thread... I guess my question is why do you want aluminum wheels? just looks? if it is cosmetic, then you might have the budget for it. good for you. just curious is all. i'd love to see the after pics if you do get them
I like to see shiny wheels too , but on my budget I'll do well to get some shiny hub caps - I might have to go with chrome paint - lol
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Old 04-20-2019, 12:18 PM   #18
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Attachment 32100


My kid changing studs for thicker Alcoa aluminum rims. Ministry likes to see at least three threads sticking out past the nut.


Attachment 32101


Attachment 32102

Attachment 32103


I got lucky with these, I traded some work for the rims [came off a Pete gravel truck, 7 rims not that shinny]. Traded some work to have four polished up as best as they could [needs to be done again]. Called in a favor owed to me to have tires switched over. Then bought hub caps and nut covers. Total value to me, thousand buck.


If the Alcoas hadn't worked out I would have repainted rims satin black with a red pinstripe and added chrome nut covers and a small chrome hub cap.
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Old 04-20-2019, 12:23 PM   #19
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Attachment 32100


My kid changing studs for thicker Alcoa aluminum rims. Ministry likes to see at least three threads sticking out past the nut.


Attachment 32101


Attachment 32102

Attachment 32103


I got lucky with these, I traded some work for the rims [came off a Pete gravel truck, 7 rims not that shinny]. Traded some work to have four polished up as best as they could [needs to be done again]. Called in a favor owed to me to have tires switched over. Then bought hub caps and nut covers. Total value to me, thousand buck.


If the Alcoas hadn't worked out I would have repainted rims satin black with a red pinstripe and added chrome nut covers and a small chrome hub cap.
Invalid Attachments....

In the future, you guys can save a lot of polishing if after having them polished have them clear powder coated. They will remain shiny without having to polish them all the time.
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Old 04-20-2019, 01:18 PM   #20
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Hmmm....I can see them?



IMG_3780.JPG

IMG_4109.JPG

IMG_4111.JPG

005.jpg




...did these work?
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