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Old 03-26-2015, 07:02 AM   #41
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Year: 1988
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Best source for a nice rear end?

Here's the deal on this. We have been talking rear end ratios. We haven't been talking about sources for the right one to use. What other vehicles can we take punkins out of to use in our buses? Can we just go to a truck yard and have a dif taken out of a dump truck, semi, etc? What specifics should we be looking for?

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Old 03-26-2015, 08:41 AM   #42
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No, you have to figure out what kind of specific rear end you have. There should be a tag somewhere on the axle, probably covered in grease and road grime. From there, you can figure out what type axle you have, the gear ratio it originally came with, and some other numbers. The key is the axle type. You can then go on spicer's or dana's website and look up specific info about your axle, including ratio's available.

The axle on my bus is a spicer f170s. Using that data I found out that my axle is obsolete, however dana still lists parts for them so not all is lost. It also lists multiple ratios from 4.33 all the way to 7.17. I also found that it was used in straight trucks as well as busses.

Find your axle type and google search it.
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Old 03-26-2015, 02:05 PM   #43
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Your bus has the International N-190 19,000 lbs rear axle.

You may want to consider purchasing another bus for donor parts. It would most likely cost less than purchasing all of the additional parts a piece at a time.

A new set of rear gears or even a set of reconditioned rear gears could set you back well in excess of $1,000.00.

As an alternative you may want to consider this bus as a donor. It has the DT466 210 HP engine, MT653 (5-speed automatic) transmission, and 4.78 gears. Since it will cruise easily at 70 MPH I have to wonder if 5th is an OD gear rather than 5th Direct with a deep low 1st.

1990 International BB 1HVBB27N1LH288586 - TheBusDealer.com - Auburn, Washington 98001
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Old 03-26-2015, 07:05 PM   #44
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you can buy my N190 4.78 rear end cheap if I can ever get teh people with the 4.10 rear end to respond to my emails so I can buy it
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Old 03-28-2015, 10:03 AM   #45
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I usually get emails about thread updates but didn't this time so I had no idea all this talking was happening! =] Kubla, how much are you thinking on your rear end? (That sounds funny.) I wonder if this one is compatible? Blue Bird Air Brake Rear End

I'd like to avoid buying another bus if at all possible... But it might be unavoidable. We're pulling the oil pan today to see about the coolant leak. Did a pressure test for 15 mins and it dropped from 10psi to 8psi, but we can also hear an air hiss leak in the radiator hose that might have something to do with that.
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Old 03-28-2015, 10:46 AM   #46
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If I had to do this all over again, a rust free body would be more important than a running engine.

Rust is imposable to fix. We can slow it down, but never fix it.

A engine can be swapped out, or rebuilt at any time.

I would build the bus, leave the engine alone till your done.

The shape of the body would be my determining factor on whether to buy a new bus, or convert the one you have.

Nat
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Old 03-28-2015, 11:15 AM   #47
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I've seen zero rust anywhere on it. I'm hesitant to start the build until I've determined how bad the engine damage is and how much it will cost to fix. If it ends up being over $1500 (with doing the work myself) then I'll probably just go for a different bus since the tires alone on this one are worth about $1000 as they are.
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Old 03-28-2015, 12:13 PM   #48
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Just don't trash the engine.
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Old 03-28-2015, 01:31 PM   #49
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Think anybody would be wanting to buy the engine as is? If I could get enough for it I might be interested in getting a bus with a 466 engine from another school district. I looked at quite a few before I bought this one. I think they're the same price, too.
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Old 03-28-2015, 03:04 PM   #50
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That is a good engine. Someone will want it. They could use it for a swap.
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Old 03-28-2015, 03:09 PM   #51
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The engine is worth the price of a core in it's current condition.

Rebuild it your self. Not hard, there are video's on you tube.

Rebuild kits start at $1000. Then you would be good for life.

If I was your nabor, I would trade you a working 5.9 Cummins for the DT 466.

You have a great engine, just rebuild it.

Nat
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Old 03-28-2015, 03:28 PM   #52
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Originally Posted by nat_ster View Post
The engine is worth the price of a core in it's current condition.

Rebuild it your self. Not hard, there are video's on you tube.

Rebuild kits start at $1000. Then you would be good for life.

If I was your nabor, I would trade you a working 5.9 Cummins for the DT 466.

You have a great engine, just rebuild it.

Nat
I think he wants a 466. What he has now is a 360.
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Old 03-28-2015, 03:31 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazycal View Post
I think he wants a 466. What he has now is a 360.
Opps, My bad

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Old 03-28-2015, 06:43 PM   #54
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The 360 is no harder to rebuild. Its the same basic stuff, just smaller. Am I missing something here? Some 466 parts can be used and all parts are available. I hear tell, a 360 with the right parts can be a 407 or is it 409. All that is swapping parts, no machining, just rods, sleeves, rings. Its what I think of when I think someday mine will have to go down that road.
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Old 03-28-2015, 07:46 PM   #55
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I still have not gotten an answer on the 4.10 differential I want to buy
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Old 03-28-2015, 08:43 PM   #56
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Good news, I think. We drained the oil and did another pressure test today after tightening the radiator hose. No loss of pressure. Also the oil looked fine, no sludge, and only about a teaspoon or so of water droplets came out of the very bottom as soon as we started draining it. Saw no coolant at all in there. Did another pressure test after it was drained and left the oil pan plug out. Nothing came out and no loss of pressure! Should I take this as "we don't need to fix anything" news? Tomorrow I'm gonna run a diesel oil mix for a while to clean it out, then drain and test while it's hot in case heat expansion shows any more leaks.
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Old 03-29-2015, 07:04 AM   #57
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Sounds like you are on the right track. Congratulations if it is not too soon to say so. Once you completed the mentioned steps, I'd empty the oil filters as best as you can and refill them with oil. Then fill the oil and keep your fingers crossed. Put in some time on the engine while watching the gauges and then check it again for signs of contamination from coolant. If all goes well, celebrate!
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Old 03-29-2015, 09:50 AM   #58
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I'll just go ahead and change the filters when I change the oil after doing the diesel/oil flush. Once this is sorted out and I determine what's up with the alternator, if anything, I'll be starting a veggie conversion.
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Old 03-29-2015, 11:10 AM   #59
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I wouldn't write it all off as fixed yet. A cooling system pressure test doesn't always find a leak. Seeing as how the last 2 oil analysis showed antifreeze present in the oil I'd say you still have a problem. Vibrations and heat from an engine running can cause leaks that can't be found with it not running or warm.
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Old 03-30-2015, 10:05 PM   #60
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Today we put a gallon of the old oil back in with some engine flush and ran it for five minutes. Drained it off from the oil pan.... No sign of anything in the oil. Then changed the oil filters and put a gallon of fresh oil in, ran the engine for half an hour up to 170/180 degrees with the pressure test on. No change of pressure. Let the oil cool and settle and drained it off. No sign of anything in it!!!! Filled her up, and we're just gonna say that's that and keep a good eye on it. No sign of anymore gunk on the dipstick either.

In celebration, I took out all of the bus seats! 1 hr per seat by hand, or 1 hr per 20 seats with air wrench. Lesson learned; the pneumatic wrench is my best friend.
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