Quote:
Originally Posted by Big11beard
Uhg. Still haven't pulled these injectors. I pulled the valve cover to find that the injector is under the cam shaft. It doesn't look like it will come up without pulling the cam. Has anyone ever sent fluids in for testing. I wonder if the can find diesel in the oil. To be sure. Here is my other issue with bring it to a shop. Nearest shop is 20miles away in the capital city and the bus can't be registered until it can be changed to an RV.
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We are talking about the electronic 3126b here, with the hydraulic injectors, right? If so, I pulled these on mine, and while not the easiest job, it certainly isn't that bad. They are not under the camshaft, as it is a pushrod engine, and the cam is in the block, they are to the left of the rocker shaft if you're looking at the front of the engine. Check out my build thread for a vague guide on how to do this. All you need to pull to remove them is the valve cover and the breather / hose that is on top of it, and push aside any wiring or hoses in the way. Each injector is held down by 2 allen bolts, I believe 4.5mm. You will want allen sockets like this:
Unplug the injectors. Undo the 2 bolts, being very careful not to drop them down into the engine, have a long skinny magnet tool handy. On one of the bolts (I believe the side closer to the rocker shaft) there are weird looking metal things on the bolts, take those out too. They are some sort of oil deflector. Once those are out, there are hold-down plates attached to the top of the injectors (but under the wiring connectors). They will appear loose but will not come off.
These are the injectors (assuming we are talking about the same engine). You can see the oil deflector things on the long bolts to the right of the injectors.
To "pop out" the injectors (because they will be in there pretty good) I took a standard L-shaped allen wrench, and used it as a mini pry bar between the hold-down plate on the injectors and the cast cylinder head, being careful not to disturb valve springs or wiring or anything else in there. I think I took a small metal tube and put it over the allen for leverage.
Like so:
So picture the square being pried as the injector hold-down plate, and you're doing this on the rear-side of the injector, so the left side of the square being pried is the front of the engine and where the pry bar is is the rear. Push firmly but slowly and it should pop up a half inch or so and be loose enough to pull out. But be VERY CAREFUL not to hit the tip of the injector against anything when pulling it out, and during transport, as the tips are very precise and are damaged easily, and if damaged the whole injector is useless.
The shop should be able to supply and replace the O rings for you. Navistar / Ford T444e / Powerstroke 7.3 engines as well as DT466e motors used the same / similar injectors so it is pretty common. I had mine tested and 2 were performing poorly, and were $125 each for reman. With new O rings, 2 reman injectors and testing was $550.
CAT sells 2 wire brushes with specific diameters to clean carbon out of the 2 sizes of bores in the head, and while not necessary to use their brushes it is real convenient. Then you take this scotchbrite pad-like stuff and I put it in between some surgical locking plier things like this:
And you scuff up the whole bore to sort of "hone" it and get the crap off of it. Then I would wipe the whole bore out with a lint-free rag or towel on these forceps.
When reinstalling, you want new allen bolts as they are torque to yield. You need to use a vacuum pump or something similar (shop vac with a small tube attached maybe?) to suck out oil / fuel out of the cylinders as it spills in when you remove the injectors, and that can hydro lock the engine and break something if you try to start it with that in it. Then I was told to dip the injector in new motor oil (like the part below the hold-down plate, don't dip the connector part) and then push it into the bore, making sure it seats properly.
This is the abridged version. PM me for CAT repair manuals, specs and part numbers, or my phone # if you want me to walk you through it. It is a bit of a pain to do but doable.