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Old 09-03-2015, 02:06 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by Big11beard View Post
Uhg. Still haven't pulled these injectors. I pulled the valve cover to find that the injector is under the cam shaft. It doesn't look like it will come up without pulling the cam. Has anyone ever sent fluids in for testing. I wonder if the can find diesel in the oil. To be sure. Here is my other issue with bring it to a shop. Nearest shop is 20miles away in the capital city and the bus can't be registered until it can be changed to an RV.
We are talking about the electronic 3126b here, with the hydraulic injectors, right? If so, I pulled these on mine, and while not the easiest job, it certainly isn't that bad. They are not under the camshaft, as it is a pushrod engine, and the cam is in the block, they are to the left of the rocker shaft if you're looking at the front of the engine. Check out my build thread for a vague guide on how to do this. All you need to pull to remove them is the valve cover and the breather / hose that is on top of it, and push aside any wiring or hoses in the way. Each injector is held down by 2 allen bolts, I believe 4.5mm. You will want allen sockets like this:



Unplug the injectors. Undo the 2 bolts, being very careful not to drop them down into the engine, have a long skinny magnet tool handy. On one of the bolts (I believe the side closer to the rocker shaft) there are weird looking metal things on the bolts, take those out too. They are some sort of oil deflector. Once those are out, there are hold-down plates attached to the top of the injectors (but under the wiring connectors). They will appear loose but will not come off.



These are the injectors (assuming we are talking about the same engine). You can see the oil deflector things on the long bolts to the right of the injectors.

To "pop out" the injectors (because they will be in there pretty good) I took a standard L-shaped allen wrench, and used it as a mini pry bar between the hold-down plate on the injectors and the cast cylinder head, being careful not to disturb valve springs or wiring or anything else in there. I think I took a small metal tube and put it over the allen for leverage.

Like so:



So picture the square being pried as the injector hold-down plate, and you're doing this on the rear-side of the injector, so the left side of the square being pried is the front of the engine and where the pry bar is is the rear. Push firmly but slowly and it should pop up a half inch or so and be loose enough to pull out. But be VERY CAREFUL not to hit the tip of the injector against anything when pulling it out, and during transport, as the tips are very precise and are damaged easily, and if damaged the whole injector is useless.

The shop should be able to supply and replace the O rings for you. Navistar / Ford T444e / Powerstroke 7.3 engines as well as DT466e motors used the same / similar injectors so it is pretty common. I had mine tested and 2 were performing poorly, and were $125 each for reman. With new O rings, 2 reman injectors and testing was $550.

CAT sells 2 wire brushes with specific diameters to clean carbon out of the 2 sizes of bores in the head, and while not necessary to use their brushes it is real convenient. Then you take this scotchbrite pad-like stuff and I put it in between some surgical locking plier things like this:



And you scuff up the whole bore to sort of "hone" it and get the crap off of it. Then I would wipe the whole bore out with a lint-free rag or towel on these forceps.

When reinstalling, you want new allen bolts as they are torque to yield. You need to use a vacuum pump or something similar (shop vac with a small tube attached maybe?) to suck out oil / fuel out of the cylinders as it spills in when you remove the injectors, and that can hydro lock the engine and break something if you try to start it with that in it. Then I was told to dip the injector in new motor oil (like the part below the hold-down plate, don't dip the connector part) and then push it into the bore, making sure it seats properly.

This is the abridged version. PM me for CAT repair manuals, specs and part numbers, or my phone # if you want me to walk you through it. It is a bit of a pain to do but doable.
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Old 09-03-2015, 02:29 PM   #32
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I have had a bad turbo on a car blow white smoke before as well. It was on a late 80's Volvo. That vehicle seemed to drive well and only a small amount of power loss but when that turbo first started going bad, it poured white smoke like the whole thing was about to blow.
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Old 09-03-2015, 04:04 PM   #33
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Make sure as you are taking the injectors out you keep track of which hole they were in.

They may all look the same but they aren't.

You will never get the engine to idle smoothly if the last injector isn't in the last hole. It has special "instructions" built into it that communicate with the brain box. If it isn't in the right hole the "timing" will be off for good idling.
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Old 09-05-2015, 08:54 AM   #34
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Thank you PorkChop! That is a great procedure you have there. I'll Keep you all posted. I think I am finally going to dig in to this today. I got a CAT service manual for my 1WM 3126 Engine at liberatemanuals.com. Now I can feel confident that if it turns out to be more then an injector I can just keep digging.

Also, thank you again Cowlitz. If the injector needs to be replaced or rebuilt does it need to be re calibrated? Or are they calibrated to piston position?

I had found a Youtube video on removing 3126B injectors but those were not in the same position as mine are in the photo bellow. The injector is under that rocker arm.

hmm... having trouble attaching photo...
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Old 09-05-2015, 09:11 AM   #35
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And I certainly hope it is not a scratched cylinder wall because I only need 5k - 7k miles out of this engine.
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Old 09-05-2015, 10:53 AM   #36
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Alright. Well I am going to have to remove the rocker arm assembly in order to pull these injectors. Installation looks to be a standard valve lash adjustment. Anyone know how difficult it is to turn the engine into TDC?
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Old 09-05-2015, 01:24 PM   #37
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Anyone know how difficult it is to turn the engine into TDC?]
Assuming the rockers are still on, turn the engine until rockers on #6cylinder are just starting to rock. One just closing the other just starting to open, that's TDC on #1. Works on any inline 6. If you want EXACT TDC, that's a different story, wouldn't think you would need that for what you're doing.

Dick
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Old 09-05-2015, 02:04 PM   #38
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Well that was way easier then I was making it out to be in my head. The rocker arm assembly comes off without needing to change the adjustment. the adjustment pin rides on top of the push rod. I just made sure to mark all 6 assemblies so they are adjusted correctly. You will all have to forgive me for this being my first push rod engine. All my experiences in the past have been have been with dual over head cam engines.

On Injector #5 the bushing/ring around the tip came out broken and cooked to the side of the injector tip. All the others didn't come out of the injector well.
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Old 09-05-2015, 02:28 PM   #39
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Old 09-05-2015, 03:04 PM   #40
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